Over built? Well, depends, mine is not a helix. It runs around the layout and climbs up to the next level over 4 circuits. I've 2 uprights every 24" with the 3/4" roadbed running between them with coachbolts running thru the 3/4" ply. This gives it total rigidity and strength. But a true helix would have it's own built in strength by it's shape, so I'm sure 1/2" would be more than adequate.
This layout is being built as my last. I'm building it for my retirement with past experience in mind. I would much sooner have it bullet proof than flimsy. After all, after spending all that money on very expensive sound equipped trains I don't want them crashing to the floor!
Cheers
Barry
track in my helix is laid directly on 1/2" particle board which I find is OK.
noise is not a problem as I operate at slow speeds.
also I think 3/4" ply is a bit of overkill as it seems to me that a lot of things are made / built a lot stronger than is really necessary.
my 2c
trevor
pcarrell wrote:that would work if you haven't already built it or don't mind a little reworking. Another way to go is by making a small transition ramp between the two.
I thought it might work. Yes, the helix I dream of having is still very much in the planning stages and quite a ways in the future yet.
bsteel4065 wrote:HiThanks for the replies.Yes, I think I'm OK on the 3/4" ply. I'll be using latex caulk. The only other consideration is getting the track up on roadbed once it hits the layout levels. But that's OK, I'll gradually chamfer in the road bed so it's a neat and easy transition.Thanks!
Hi
Thanks for the replies.
Yes, I think I'm OK on the 3/4" ply. I'll be using latex caulk. The only other consideration is getting the track up on roadbed once it hits the layout levels. But that's OK, I'll gradually chamfer in the road bed so it's a neat and easy transition.
Thanks!
I was thinking that all a guy would have to do is plan to equalize the difference where layout meets helix by setting the height of 3/4" plywood to match the existing height of the roadbed on benchwork. Then again it might be easier to just shim the track to transition between the two???
Hi Barry
If noise is not a problem then on the plywood would be fine. The more room for the 0-5-0 switcher the better. We have a six turn helix at the club and one day the front coupler on the first car out of 42 car train decided to not work any more. It was not a pretty sight seeing 42 cars rocketing backwards at a scale 900 MPH. The guys in the caboose must have had one heck of a ride! Im still missing one hopper that has vanished in the helix. When I build my layout the helix will have a lot of room for hands and heads for searching. Its not fun retrieving derailed cars with a yard stick.
There is talk of dismantling the 40 year old helix and smoothing out some of the hills. Most of the layout has become unreliable after those many years. As club members get older they are not as flexible and the hidden track has become an obstacle to most.
Pete
I pray every day I break even, Cause I can really use the money!
I started with nothing and still have most of it left!
bsteel4065 wrote: HiI am building my single track rise from my lower leverl to my upper level on my new HO PRR / NYC layout.It's not exactly a helix, but it climbs up and around so the principle and the question still applies. I'm considering sticking the track down directly on the 3/4" ply. Waht do you think? Or should I put in a roadbed such as cork or Homasote? I have 3 3/4" height clearance thru the climb (0.87%)I personally don't think it's necessary apart from maybe noise reduction. What do you think guys?ThanksBarry
I am building my single track rise from my lower leverl to my upper level on my new HO PRR / NYC layout.
It's not exactly a helix, but it climbs up and around so the principle and the question still applies. I'm considering sticking the track down directly on the 3/4" ply. Waht do you think? Or should I put in a roadbed such as cork or Homasote? I have 3 3/4" height clearance thru the climb (0.87%)
I personally don't think it's necessary apart from maybe noise reduction.
What do you think guys?
Thanks
I used 1/2" plywood and Woodland Scenics Trackbed foam on mine. In 25' rolls it goes down pretty easy. I then glued the track to the Trackbed foam and used woodclamps to hold the flextrack in place while the glue dried. I did 6' at a time. It took a couple of days. My main reason was sound deadening and consistency with the rest of the layout. Also being a true helix, spiking the track was not an option unless the track was laid as the helix was assembled, not afterwards. Not enough room between the levels.
Engineer Jeff NS Nut Visit my layout at: http://www.thebinks.com/trains/