Reformed Grownup wrote:I purchased the MRC Prodigy Express and sent it back to be upgraded to 2.5 Amps. I know it's not the best system out there, but it will work for what I need.Richard
Richard
Richard,
Hey, I had fun with my Bachmann E-Z Command before I bought my NCE Power Cab. DCC is just plain more fun to run...even on a limited system like the E-Z Command.
Tom
https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling
Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.
Dave,
Perhaps I spoke too broadly. They do for sure on the DH163L0s. I guess you'd should always check the specific decoder manual to be sure. Thanks for the correction
tstage wrote: Richard, I can't remember. Did you ever mention in a previous thread which DCC system you have? Or, have you bought one yet? Just curious...Tom
I can't remember. Did you ever mention in a previous thread which DCC system you have? Or, have you bought one yet? Just curious...
Tom,
I purchased the MRC Prodigy Express and sent it back to be upgraded to 2.5 Amps. I know it's not the best system out there, but it will work for what I need.
As a side note, The F7 is now up and running - sans lights, but running! Soldering is not my cup of tea - this has been confirmed!
I'm home with my kids - it's an "ice-day" today. My wife volunteered to stay, but I convinced her that it would be better for me to stay with the kids - her work is MUCH too important to miss! Now that the decoder is installed there are details to be installed and cookies to be made (Pillsbury pop 'em in the oven!) Oh what a glorious Monday!
Thanks again for the help. I'm sure I'll be back once I tackle the lights
BigZee wrote: Richard,Next time you decide to add a decoder to an Athearn Blue Box just forego the newer decoders and go with the recommended DH123AT, or DH163AT, decoder. Installation is much easier due to having the harness and quick plug. If you only want front and rear lights you can go with the DH123AT to control those functions. I used the DH163AT in my Blue Boxers so I could use the extra functions to control my ditch lights, beacons, etc.
Next time you decide to add a decoder to an Athearn Blue Box just forego the newer decoders and go with the recommended DH123AT, or DH163AT, decoder. Installation is much easier due to having the harness and quick plug. If you only want front and rear lights you can go with the DH123AT to control those functions. I used the DH163AT in my Blue Boxers so I could use the extra functions to control my ditch lights, beacons, etc.
I debated using one of those decoders, but ultimately the easy upgrade to sound (albeit generic sound) won out. Of course in hindsight I might have picked an easier first install...
You don't have to really do any soldering with the AT decoders except for getting your lights replaced (the fire in the cab has to go). I used Miniatronics 1.5v 1.2mm micro bulbs instead of LEDs. Two bulbs on the front, two on the rear. Just take the clear lenses out of the light holes in the shell, put the micro bulbs in, add a resistor in series with each bulb (I use 750 ohm 1/4 watt), and then solder them in series to the respective function leads (white/blue for the front and yellow/blue for the rear). Wiring them up in parallel is not recommended due to the fact that if one bulb blows for some reason your other bulb will more than likely go out shortly after.
Thanks for this info. I'll probably use an LED for the headlight and a bulb for the Mars light as suggested earlier. I don't know why this wiring business freaks me out so much...probably the prospect of screwing it up!
Now, if you're going with the 165 series decoder because of its SoundBug capability I can understand your choice in decoders. And, as mentioned, they also have the current limiting feature on the front and rear light outputs, which means you don't have to worry about adding resistors (but you do on the other functions). However, I have found that after a few installs of the AT decoders any subsequent installs are a snap.
My "fleet", such as it is, consists of just 4 locos. I'm just easing into DCC, so it will be a while before I switch th rest of them over to DCC. (too close to Christmas...nothing in the old wallet). My goal is to get this one up and running and get some track laid on my reworked layout and play with my toys on Christmas morning...we'll see...
Reformed Grownup wrote:My plan was to install 2 Yeloglo LEDs - One for continuous headlight, and the other as a Mars light. My plan was to use the front headlight function to control the continous headlight, and then re-map the rear light function to control the Mars light. If I understand you correctly I would run the white wire to FOF, Yellow to FOR, and the second wire from each would share the blue wire/pad. According to the "manual" FOF & FOR are current regulated and don't require additional resistors, so I avoid that hassle.
Yes, you understand me correctly. I forgot to mention that that particular Digitrax series decoder has a current regulator built-in to it for F0F and F0R, so you won't need resistors if you use 3mm LEDs or 1.5V candescent bulbs.
As far as the Mars lights. Incandescent bulbs will look better at this particular lighting aspect than LEDs. Incandescents "dim" much better than LEDS because LEDs don't "power up" like incandescents do. LEDs are either on or off. Just observe an older and new (<3 years) automobile's break lights to understand what I mean.
I'm not sure about pin1 - http://www.digitrax.com/ftp/DH165A0.pdf Page 6 shows the decoder in question.
Interesting. I just took a look at the DH165A0 decoder in the Digitrax manual .pdf file that you provided the link for. All the pads are spread out over the entire decoder. Seems pretty straightforward.
I've never used that particular style of decoder before. Most of mine have come with the 8-pin plug-in connector on them. The Z-scale scale decoder in my Proto 2000 S1 (that I ended up hardwiring) had Pin 1 marked. I probably wouldn't have found it if the manaul hadn't pointed it out.
Down the road (assuming I EVER get this straightened out!) i was thinking of lighting the number boards, and possibly adding classification lights (LEDs in both cases). If I am correct, I would need to use one of the other function pads and appropriate resistors for each of the LEDS (4 in total -2 numberboard, 2 classification), or could I use just 2 functions somehow? (I'm in WAY OVER MY HEAD AT THIS POINT!!!) Man I thought hobbies were supposed to be FUN!Oh, the best laid plans of mice and men...Thanks for the insight
Oh, the best laid plans of mice and men...
Thanks for the insight
Yes, you'll need resistors for any of the function pads. As long as the total maximum amp output of your function pad is not exceeded, you could "double-up" your lights off each function pad for your numberboard and classification lights. (Check and add up your LED or incandescent bulb amp ratings first to determine if this is possible.) If you do use incandescents, run them cooler with a higher resistor so that you don't run the risk of melting your shell.
Keep pluggin' away at it, Richard. You'll eventually see the light. (Pun intended )
tstage wrote: Richard, Here's the wire attachment color code: Red = R(ight) track pickup Black = L track pickupOrange = Motor (+)Gray = Motor (-)White = Front headlight (F0F)Yellow = Rear headlight (F0R)Blue = Common (Light)Here's the pad attachment color-code:1 = Orange2 = Yellow3 = [Not used]4 = Black5 = Gray6 = White7 = Blue8 = RedRichard, did the directions indicate where Pin 1 was on your decoder? On an 8-pin decoder, Pads 1 & 5 (motor + & -) will always be in opposite corners from one another; Pins 4 & 8 (track power) will always be in opposite corners, as well. This way, if the decoder is accidentally rotated 180 degrees or wired backwards, your locomotive will still run - albeit backwards, with no lights.If you plan on using both front and rear headlights: One wire from each light will go to their prospective decoder pads; the other wire will go to (share) the blue pad. If you switch to 3mm LEDs, you'll need to solder in a 750 or 1K ohm resistor so that it doesn't go "poof".Also, while incandescent bulbs are not wire-specific, LEDs are. They only light if wired correctly. The white or yellow wires from your decoder are soldered to the longer (+ or anode) lead of the LED (remember white = front; yellow = rear); the blue wire goes to the shorter (- or cathode) lead of the LED. (See diagram below) The resistor is soldered in-line onto either the anode or cathode leads - doesn't matter. Richard, is this starting to make more sense? I just started learning this stuff a couple of years ago myself. Tom
Here's the wire attachment color code:
Here's the pad attachment color-code:
Richard, did the directions indicate where Pin 1 was on your decoder? On an 8-pin decoder, Pads 1 & 5 (motor + & -) will always be in opposite corners from one another; Pins 4 & 8 (track power) will always be in opposite corners, as well. This way, if the decoder is accidentally rotated 180 degrees or wired backwards, your locomotive will still run - albeit backwards, with no lights.
If you plan on using both front and rear headlights: One wire from each light will go to their prospective decoder pads; the other wire will go to (share) the blue pad. If you switch to 3mm LEDs, you'll need to solder in a 750 or 1K ohm resistor so that it doesn't go "poof".
Also, while incandescent bulbs are not wire-specific, LEDs are. They only light if wired correctly. The white or yellow wires from your decoder are soldered to the longer (+ or anode) lead of the LED (remember white = front; yellow = rear); the blue wire goes to the shorter (- or cathode) lead of the LED. (See diagram below)
The resistor is soldered in-line onto either the anode or cathode leads - doesn't matter.
Richard, is this starting to make more sense? I just started learning this stuff a couple of years ago myself.
I think I've got my head around everything except the lights. The stock Athearn light (crap that it is) is all that I have right now. There are no rear lights - just the "welder in the cab". Maybe it would be better to not connect it and wait until I have the LEDs I plan on installing. My plan was to install 2 Yeloglo LEDs - One for continuous headlight, and the other as a Mars light. My plan was to use the front headlight function to control the continous headlight, and then re-map the rear light function to control the Mars light. If I understand you correctly I would run the white wire to FOF, Yellow to FOR, and the second wire from each would share the blue wire/pad. According to the "manual" FOF & FOR are current regulated and don't require additional resistors, so I avoid that hassle.
Down the road (assuming I EVER get this straightened out!) i was thinking of lighting the number boards, and possibly adding classification lights (LEDs in both cases). If I am correct, I would need to use one of the other function pads and appropriate resistors for each of the LEDS (4 in total -2 numberboard, 2 classification), or could I use just 2 functions somehow? (I'm in WAY OVER MY HEAD AT THIS POINT!!!) Man I thought hobbies were supposed to be FUN!
jim22 wrote: You need the left and right track wires, and both motor wires.
You need the left and right track wires, and both motor wires.
So the RH track is red, LH track is black, and motors wires are orange and gray. I would solder the red to either designated RH TRK solderpad, LH TRK to Either designated solder pad, orange/gray to either designated solder pad - am I ok so far?
The single headlight takes lots of current. It would be wired to the function zero forward pads FOF+,FOF.
Ok, how is this wired? There are 2 solder pads, and I have just one white wire that is connected to the bulb.
If you get rid of the large bulb and put in two small 14v grain of rice bulbs, the rear would be wired to FOR+ and FOR. I haven't put in a digitraxx decoder myself, but the blue is usually a function common lead, and it's typical to wire one side of each bulb to it. It looks like this decoder has dedicated pads.
Do I use this blue wire if I am keeping the factory headlight? And how would this be connected?
One critical step for an Athearn blue box loco is to isolate the motor from the frame. The motor mounts to the frame with a white rubber block. You need to pull the motor off the frame. Under the motor you will find a metal strip with a prong sticking down onto the frame. That prong needs to be removed and the metal strip covered with electrical tape. The kit you bought may include a replacement strip with a wire attached. If that's true, you should be all set. Just make sure that motor contact can't connect to the frame. The frame usually is connected to one rail. You can solder that rail input to the light bracket if it's not loose. Sometimes I drill and tap for a screw in the frame and attach the wire to the screw.
The kit included a new clip to isolate the frame. I did place eletric tape along the inside of the frame as a precaution. Also I reamed one of the motor mount holes and "friction fitted" the black wire in this hole - per a recommendation I received from Loy's Toys.
Thanks again for the help.
You need the left and right track wires, and both motor wires. The single headlight takes lots of current. It would be wired to the function zero forward pads FOF+,FOF. If you get rid of the large bulb and put in two small 14v grain of rice bulbs, the rear would be wired to FOR+ and FOR. I haven't put in a digitraxx decoder myself, but the blue is usually a function common lead, and it's typical to wire one side of each bulb to it. It looks like this decoder has dedicated pads.
For LEDs, you may need resistors in series with them, and polarity is critical. They only light when wired with the correct polarity.
Jim
Well, my decoder finally arrived today. I got the kids to bed and settled in to install it - my first decoder installation...I have an Athearn Blue Box F7 in which I am attempting to install a Digitrax DH165A0. I know that this is supposed to be a drop in board replacement for Genesis models - NOT BLUE BOX, but I figured the wiring shouldn't be much different and i really want to be able to add at least generic sound down the road.
I purchased the DHAT wiring harness (waste of $$ I know, but I'm not much of a solderer, so the few connections they soldered for me are worth the $7 I spent) I cut the plastic harness off (not compatible w/ the decoder), followed the instructions and hooked up the orange, gray, white and black wires. I was all set to start soldering connections to the decoder when panic and dread set in (what if I screw this up? I don't really know what I'm doing!). The instructions are vague at best, and of course not intended to walk one through what I am attempting.
I guess my question is what wires to I need to hook up, and where should they be soldered. The board appears to have multiple redundant connection points for convenience sake I suppose. Do I really just need to connect the orange, gray, red, and black to their respective spots and that's it? Seems too simple...and what about the light? I left that alone (stock Athearn bulb) for now, but would like to add LEDs in the near future. Is the white wire to the FOF pad the only connection to be made? (something about the blue wire is bouncing around my head and causing anxiety...)
Please have a look at the "instructions" link above and tell me how it really is "that easy", and I am making a mountain out of a mole hill, and I will sleep better tonight.
Thanks in advance for your collective expertise.