I'm still at the planning stage; but I'm wondering how you guys separate blocks.
I use Märklin tracks in Z-scale - and it is not always possible to place the separator-tracks where I want them. I have tried to cut/saw a gap in one rail; but the gap gets too wide. Loco can easily cross the gap and pick up current on the other side - BUT even the smallest gap will cause the train to derail.
The gap in Märklin-tracks is only as wide as you can slip a piece of paper in - I just don't have the tools for that. Any suggestions ?
I have tried to fill the gap with white glue,which does not work - because it gets a kind of rubberish and doesn't stick too well to the rail, when I start shaping it. Melted Plastic-toothpicks doesn't stick either (?)
I imagine some material that I will be able to shape when it has hardened.
Any suggestions will be appreciated - Thanks in advance !
E
Am I sleepin' or what -
jacon12 has asked almost the same question in this thread - in a different scale, though:
http://www.trains.com/trccs/forums/1286189/ShowPost.aspx
And, I guess, it's the scale I'm in - that worries me
Jeweler's saw. A lot finer than anything else I know about. Fine enough? Don't know.
Jeff But it's a dry heat!
-Dan
Builder of Bowser steam! Railimages Site
Hey guys
Thanks for the input.
Untill now I've used my Dremel - I just thought it was able to cut it; but ..... ?
So that's what a jeweler's saw looks like ( just googled it ) You may be right. So I'll purchase a J-saw to see how it cuts and then I might fill the gap ( if it's still too large ) with paper/fibre ( I don't know what Kadee washers are made of ) - and sand/cut it to shape. I guess anything isolating will do.
The smaller a gap to fill - the better chance for the filler to stick and to be able to sand ! I'll try that.
Silicon "Goop" brand to fill in the rail gaps might be the ticket.
Excess silicon can be rubbed off after it sets for a few minutes, and; after it sets for a couple hours any excess can be trimed with a sharp knife.
My LHS (local hardware store) owner informed me that Plumber's Goop and Automotive Goop is the same stuff packaged under different names and goes for apx. $5.00/tube.
Conemaugh Road & Traction circa 1956
I am about to have to deal with that also. I was thinking about using paiters latex. it comes in a tube like silicon. Maybe apply a drop then wip off the excess. With N scale the gap is going to be pretty small anyway and I'm going to airbrush my track and ties..
Jay
C-415 Build: https://imageshack.com/a/tShC/1
Other builds: https://imageshack.com/my/albums
modelmaker51 wrote:Use 2-part epoxy or gel type superglue (ACC or CA) to overfill the gap. After it is dry, reshape the area with a knife, files, sandpaper, etc.
You beat me to it.
The mind is like a parachute. It works better when it's open. www.stremy.net
I prefer to use a RAZOR SAW such as Zona or similar than the J-saw. Then crazy-glue a piece of acetate window material in the gap or plastic. Shape it with your hobby knife/file. The razor saw is easier to use with laid track. The J-saw is good when you have the track in hand.
The Dremel makes a mess of things in this case, I've tried it also.
Thanks for the input, guys.
I've tried the J-saw - and it worked out fine. Not tooo big a gap. Just for fun I ran a locomotive over it - bad idea !
"Gel type Superglue" - why didn't I think of that ( please don't tell me )
2-part epoxy could do the trick too.
Silicon Goop - hmm, the kind we have in Denmark is not hardening enough.
On the recommendations of books and users on this board, I use a razor saw which, I think, is .02" thick. After I cut I fill with .02" syrene and superglue. After it dries, I trim and file the filler. On the top of the rail I use 600-800 grit sand paper to smooth and polish. Seems to work very nicely.
Chris
I use a cut-off disk in my Dremel, then fill the gap with a small piece of Plastruct ABS plastic, ca'd in place. The .020" plastic is the same thickness as the gap, so the fit is snug. After the glue has set, I use an X-Acto to trim the plastic to the same cross-section as the rail. The dark grey colour of the plastic blends in well, and never needs painting.
Wayne
doctorwayne wrote:I use a cut-off disk in my Dremel, then fill the gap with a small piece of Plastruct ABS plastic, ca'd in place. The .020" plastic is the same thickness as the gap, so the fit is snug. After the glue has set, I use an X-Acto to trim the plastic to the same cross-section as the rail. The dark grey colour of the plastic blends in well, and never needs painting.Wayne
What cut-off disk are you using that leaves such a fine gap? My disks all seem to tear out much larger gaps..
I just measured mine - both the Dremel brand and the ones from Canadian Tire (sorry, long drive for you) are .020" thick. These are the small diameter (1" or so) disks.
Thanks! I will see what I can find. Likely the dremel kit I got just didnt include any of the smaller wheels.