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Separating blocks

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  • Member since
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  • From: Denmark
  • 20 posts
Separating blocks
Posted by KING_MEMPHIS on Thursday, December 6, 2007 10:38 PM

I'm still at the planning stage; but I'm wondering how you guys separate blocks.

I use Märklin tracks in Z-scale - and it is not always possible to place the separator-tracks where I want them.  I have tried to cut/saw a gap in one rail; but the gap gets too wide.   Loco can easily cross the gap and pick up current on the other side - BUT even the smallest gap will cause the train to derail.  

The gap in Märklin-tracks is only as wide as you can slip a piece of paper in -  I just don't have the tools for that.    Any suggestions ?

I have tried to fill the gap with white glue,which does not work - because it gets a kind of rubberish and doesn't stick too well to the rail, when I start shaping it.   Melted Plastic-toothpicks doesn't stick either (?)

I imagine some material that I will be able to shape when it has hardened.

Any suggestions will be appreciated - Thanks in advance !

E

 

"Before Elvis - there was nothin' "
  • Member since
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  • From: Denmark
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Posted by KING_MEMPHIS on Thursday, December 6, 2007 10:46 PM

 

Am I sleepin' or what -

jacon12 has asked almost the same question in this thread - in a different scale, though:

http://www.trains.com/trccs/forums/1286189/ShowPost.aspx

And, I guess, it's the scale I'm in - that worries me Smile [:)]

E

"Before Elvis - there was nothin' "
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Posted by Vail and Southwestern RR on Thursday, December 6, 2007 11:02 PM

Jeweler's saw.  A lot finer than anything else I know about.  Fine enough?  Don't know.

 

 

Jeff But it's a dry heat!

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Posted by NeO6874 on Thursday, December 6, 2007 11:21 PM
or you can fill the freshly cut gap with styrene, paper/fiber (I'm thinking similar to what Kadee spacing washers are made of), or some other insulating material.  then file/sand to shape

-Dan

Builder of Bowser steam! Railimages Site

  • Member since
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  • From: Denmark
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Posted by KING_MEMPHIS on Friday, December 7, 2007 12:10 PM

 

Hey guys

Thanks for the input.

Untill now I've used my Dremel - I just thought it was able to cut it; but ..... ?

So that's what a jeweler's saw looks like ( just googled it Smile [:)] )     You may be right.  So I'll purchase a J-saw to see how it cuts and then I might fill the gap ( if it's still too large ) with paper/fibre ( I don't know what Kadee washers are made of  Confused [%-)]) - and sand/cut it to shape.  I guess anything isolating will do.

The smaller a gap to fill - the better chance for the filler to stick and to be able to sand !  I'll try that.

 

 

 

"Before Elvis - there was nothin' "
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Posted by BlueHillsCPR on Friday, December 7, 2007 6:38 PM
I use the dremel too.  It works well enough I thought.
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Posted by tgindy on Friday, December 7, 2007 7:07 PM

Silicon "Goop" brand to fill in the rail gaps might be the ticket.

Excess silicon can be rubbed off after it sets for a few minutes, and; after it sets for a couple hours any excess can be trimed with a sharp knife.

My LHS (local hardware store) owner informed me that Plumber's Goop and Automotive Goop is the same stuff packaged under different names and goes for apx. $5.00/tube.

Conemaugh Road & Traction circa 1956

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Posted by rlandry6 on Tuesday, May 6, 2008 5:14 PM

I am about to have to deal with that also. I was thinking about using paiters latex. it comes in a tube like silicon. Maybe apply a drop then wip off the excess. With N scale the gap is going to be pretty small anyway and I'm going to airbrush my track and ties..

 

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Posted by modelmaker51 on Tuesday, May 6, 2008 7:02 PM
Use 2-part epoxy or gel type superglue (ACC or CA) to overfill the gap. After it is dry, reshape the area with a knife, files, sandpaper, etc.

Jay 

C-415 Build: https://imageshack.com/a/tShC/1 

Other builds: https://imageshack.com/my/albums 

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  • From: Ulster Co. NY
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Posted by larak on Tuesday, May 6, 2008 10:10 PM

 modelmaker51 wrote:
Use 2-part epoxy or gel type superglue (ACC or CA) to overfill the gap. After it is dry, reshape the area with a knife, files, sandpaper, etc.

  You beat me to it.

 

The mind is like a parachute. It works better when it's open.  www.stremy.net

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Posted by UpNorth on Tuesday, May 6, 2008 10:31 PM

I prefer to use a RAZOR SAW  such as Zona or similar than the J-saw.  Then crazy-glue a piece of acetate window material in the gap or plastic. Shape it with your hobby knife/file.  The razor saw is easier to use with laid track. The J-saw is good when you have the track in hand.

The Dremel makes a mess of things in this case, I've tried it also.

  • Member since
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  • From: Denmark
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Posted by KING_MEMPHIS on Thursday, May 8, 2008 10:38 AM

Thanks for the input, guys.

 

I've tried the J-saw - and it worked out fine.  Not tooo big a gap.  Just for fun I ran a locomotive over it - bad idea !

"Gel type Superglue" - why didn't I think of that Confused [%-)]   ( please don't tell me Smile [:)] )

2-part epoxy could do the trick too.

Silicon Goop - hmm, the kind we have in Denmark is not hardening enough.

 

"Before Elvis - there was nothin' "
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Posted by ChrisNH on Friday, May 9, 2008 8:28 AM

On the recommendations of books and users on this board, I use a razor saw which, I think, is .02" thick. After I cut I fill with .02" syrene and superglue. After it dries, I trim and file the filler. On the top of the rail I use 600-800 grit sand paper to smooth and polish. Seems to work very nicely. 

Chris

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Posted by doctorwayne on Friday, May 9, 2008 10:27 AM

I use a cut-off disk in my Dremel, then fill the gap with a small piece of Plastruct ABS plastic, ca'd in place.  The .020" plastic is the same thickness as the gap, so the fit is snug.  After the glue has set, I use an X-Acto to trim the plastic to the same cross-section as the rail.  The dark grey colour of the plastic blends in well, and never needs painting.

Wayne 

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Posted by ChrisNH on Friday, May 9, 2008 10:34 AM
 doctorwayne wrote:

I use a cut-off disk in my Dremel, then fill the gap with a small piece of Plastruct ABS plastic, ca'd in place.  The .020" plastic is the same thickness as the gap, so the fit is snug.  After the glue has set, I use an X-Acto to trim the plastic to the same cross-section as the rail.  The dark grey colour of the plastic blends in well, and never needs painting.

Wayne 

What cut-off disk are you using that leaves such a fine gap? My disks all seem to tear out much larger gaps..

 

Chris 

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Posted by doctorwayne on Friday, May 9, 2008 7:25 PM

I just measured mine  - both the Dremel brand and the ones from Canadian Tire (sorry, long drive for you)Smile,Wink, & Grin [swg] are .020" thick.  These are the small diameter (1" or so) disks.

Wayne 

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  • From: New Hampshire
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Posted by ChrisNH on Sunday, May 11, 2008 7:19 PM

Thanks! I will see what I can find. Likely the dremel kit I got just didnt include any of the smaller wheels. 

Chris 

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