bunker45 wrote:Can feeder wires just be soldered onto the bottom of rail joiners, or do they need to be soldered on to the rails themselves? Will the bare wires and solder touchin the cork hurt anything?
Can feeder wires just be soldered onto the bottom of rail joiners, or do they need to be soldered on to the rails themselves?
Will the bare wires and solder touchin the cork hurt anything?
If you use a decent circuit breaker no wire will have time to get red hot or warm enough to scorch anytjing. I use Digital Solutions PSX. Availible at Tony's Trains and elseware. It's solid state(no mechanical relay) it also handles the high inrush current when you clear the short. No alternat tripping betwenn it and Command station. Works simular to a tail light bulb setup. It's the best circuit breaker availible
Jules
dehusman wrote: The solder will melt long before the wire turns red hot.Dave H.
The solder will melt long before the wire turns red hot.
Dave H.
With any modern power supply, DCC or analog DC, the breaker should kick out before a feeder gets hot enough to melt or scorch anything.
As for soldering only to the outside of the rail, that's a good idea. OTOH, a #22 wire running the length of the joint between a code 100 stock rail and guard rail is a good hideout for a feeder - and it reinforces the joint at the same time.
Chuck (modeling Central Japan in September, 1964)
Dave H. Painted side goes up. My website : wnbranch.com
Midnight Railroader wrote: Vail and Southwestern RR wrote: A little bit of bare wire touching the cork isn't a real problem, though I guess a little scortch is possible. Dang, how much power are you using, son?
Vail and Southwestern RR wrote: A little bit of bare wire touching the cork isn't a real problem, though I guess a little scortch is possible.
A little bit of bare wire touching the cork isn't a real problem, though I guess a little scortch is possible.
Heck, I only said possible, not probable. I guess if you had a short in the wrong place most of the current the booster can supply would be there, for a short time. In a small wire it will get real hot. I have seen plastic trucks well melted, so a little scortch seems possible. Of course, it will be under the ballast, so it won't matter anyway.
Jeff But it's a dry heat!
Soldered to the rail is better than soldered to the joiner, unless the joiner is soldered to the rail.
A little bit of bare wire touching the cork isn't a real problem, though I guess a little scortch is possible. The booster/command station should detect the short and shut down before the cork gets very hot. Plastic can be another matter.
As long as there is a positive (and durable, hopefully) connection to the rail, you can solder anywhere and anyhow best suits your preference. Inside and tucked against the rail webbing, under the rail, under the feeders, outside on the webbing, snugged against the feeders, shoved into the joint just above the feeders (in the gap between the rails), drilling a hole in the webbing and sliding the bared wire tip through it....you name it, it can be done and should work if the solder is applied properly.
It becomes a question of aesthetics and ease of doing for the person if the functionality of it is unquestioned.
Technically, to answer your second question, yes, the cork can get scorched if a short occurs and it takes place permitted by a very thin gauge feeder that gets a ton of amperage. The wire will heat, and that may melt insulation and char cork, and melt foam. That is why guage of wiring is not something trifled with when it comes to layouts needing more than a few amps to power them.