Modeling B&O- Chessie Bob K. www.ssmrc.org
Robert,
If you'd like, send me the .xtc file you created via email.....I'd like to take a crack at helping you with some suggestions on your track plans.....
Don Z.
Research; it's not just for geeks.
Thanks for the comments,
In reference to the tables, the three longest sides of the layout but up against the wall of the 12x30 room. I misspoke a bit about turnouts and table width. I meant that I plan to use manual switch hands on those that are reachable, out of 69 proposed turnouts in the design, I anticipate that maybe only 11 or so will need electric switch motors and considering the cost of under table motors, that cuts the price down a bit.
As far as uncoupling, I plan to use the kadee magnets under the yard and siding tracks. As far as the layout of the track in general, not being a thoroughly read rail road fan and well aquatinted in a lot of RR knowledge, I simply drew out the room, several table designs till I found one I liked and then plugged in a track layout. The things I want is a continuous large radius loops for steamers with a nice yard without eating up the whole layout in just the yard. I know the turntable is sort of detached from the yard, but I wanted one big enough to hold a big boy and a functional parking space for my engines.
I can rework the yard a bit, the use of the CAD program causes me to loose a bit of the special relationship, ill look do some measurements and tweak it a bit. I knocked out that drawing in 4 sittings totaling 4 or so hours, so I guess it's not bad for a rough start design?
Thanks for the input; I love chatting about this stuff.
p.s. thanks for finding that homasote outlets.
Nice plan, but as mentioned, I hope that lower/ bottom 4.5' is accessible from behind. The reach if against a wall will be almost impossible.
One other thing, those yard tracks look like they can be placed closer but should keep a comfortable finger room if tracks are full (about 2.25"min). The middle yard track that appears to be a caboose track would be a perfect place to extend and add a runaround track. Some of those 1st/ lower tracks should be extended since they look short. Splitting the yard ladder as you did helps. Using all #4s in the yard is OK for most rolling stock but any long equipment and passenger cars may have some problems.
According to www.homasote.com, there are two stores in Jackson, MI which sell homasote:Stock Building Supply and Menards. The above website has their addresses. Good luck with your project.
Chuck
I hope your design is an island with access all the way around it. There is no way at all you will be able to reach across a 4.5 ft bench to couple/uncouple cars, let alone lay track or do scenery.
Dave H.
Dave H. Painted side goes up. My website : wnbranch.com
I'm still very new to the hobby but one thing I was told was not to have place you want to de-couple on a turn... such as industry branches and sidings. The turntable for the locomotives seem like it doesn't connect to the yard or the connection is a long route.
I'm using xtrkcad too, very nice software so far, good luck
Dave
Thanks everyone for all of the great information. Currently, I am looking at building a HO layout consisting of a pair of 4.5x9 connected by a 3.5x8 and a 3.5x16 tables laid out in a "L" shape. The purpose of the odd shape is to offer just enough room for larger radius, while keeping the wood down and the ability to reach across and access almost the whole layout by hand, eliminating the need of a lot electric switch machines. The layout is a brainstorm of mine using the X-Tracks cad program and features I would like to have in a layout, one that will accommodate large or small trains as well as diesel and steam. Although realism is sort of the aim, not so much so, that we are recreating a real life road or following strict ops guidelines. More of a family orientated project for fun that's kept in the basement for kids, my grandpa and me.
Here is a link to an image of my proposed layout:
Ages ago, I built a cookie cuter layout following a atlas plan for a 4x8 and I followed it to the letter, I recall that the end result of the track on cork bed that was slightly taller than the surrounding scenery was not realistic looking and took away from the layout. When I moved to Texas for a short time, I joined the Alamo Model Railroad Engineers club and that's where I saw the use of homasote and liked how it was employed as a surface for laying track and scenery on and how it killed the sound, a route I would like to go with.
I recently ordered some books form walthers on DCC, benchwork, yard layouts and some track plans so I can get some inspiration and get up to speed on things since I have been away. Till I complete some reading, I was planning on a simple box table with thin plywood with the homasote on top. The only grade I have in the plan thus far is on the back/outside as part of the mainline, nothing to major, so I have tentatively planned to use blocks of 2x4 and plywood and make a graded shelf for that portion of the layout and then later on use screen and plaster to make a hill in between the two levels with a couple of tunnels, nothing major.
As for track, I was looking at code83 but may stay with code100. The majority of the turnouts are #5 up to #10, parts of the yard are in #4, all interconnected with flex track. This particular plan has approx 295ft of running track and 69 turnouts in all, that way the layout can accommodate my dream to have 4-8-8-4's on it one day.
Again thanks for the info, Ill keep ya up to date on any new developments, right now, I have no date on ground breaking as of yet, its still in the "what if" stage and obtaining some permission by mama for the room in the basement ;)
rtphillips370 wrote: Hello, I am new here, I recently joined as I am looking into returning to the hobby after many years of out model railroading. I have a question in reference to benchwork. I use to belong to a railroad museum in San Antonio, specifically, the HO railroad club portion in the early 90's. Among many features they had on the layout, the one I liked alot is that they used HOMASOTE as a layer under the track and the base for scenery building, in lieu of corkbed. I am planning on possibly building my own layout in HO and would like to go the same route however, looking around at the typical vendors such as Lowes, Home Depot, etc I am not having any luck on locating HOMASOTE sheets. Is there a substitute I can look at that any of you may know of? i.e. styrofoam etc. I really want to avoid having my track Jacked up on corkbed. Any help would be greatly appreciated. thanks...
Hello, I am new here, I recently joined as I am looking into returning to the hobby after many years of out model railroading. I have a question in reference to benchwork. I use to belong to a railroad museum in San Antonio, specifically, the HO railroad club portion in the early 90's.
Among many features they had on the layout, the one I liked alot is that they used HOMASOTE as a layer under the track and the base for scenery building, in lieu of corkbed. I am planning on possibly building my own layout in HO and would like to go the same route however, looking around at the typical vendors such as Lowes, Home Depot, etc I am not having any luck on locating HOMASOTE sheets. Is there a substitute I can look at that any of you may know of? i.e. styrofoam etc. I really want to avoid having my track Jacked up on corkbed. Any help would be greatly appreciated. thanks...
Welcome to the forum and back into the hobby. Homasote can still be found at most lumber yards. I don't know that if it is available in your area though. I don't use it for this purpose and many would crindge if they knew that the only use I have for homasote is for a floor protection, etc during major demo work for remodelling. Many will swear by Homasote and Homabed as a roadbed. Others doing foam based layouts use other forms of roadbed adhered with latex caulk. I'm sure you will get many reponses as to these methods and products. The first thing is, what type of benchwork and method of constuction do you plan to use. There is "L" girder w/ riser, open grid decked with ply, foam or a combination and some will use cookie cutter on the open grid wheather it be boixed frame or "L" girder? I perfer the latter. The open frame with risers allows for scenery contours where the elevation needs to be set lower than the trackage, deep raveins, rivers and canyons are easily done.
My clubs large layout may be way overkill for most, but the type of benchwork allows the most options for our various track elevations and radical scenery contours, yet still allows for total access below for wiring and switch machines. Another plus is that for setting a base for structures or town the plywood base can be placed at any elevation needed.
Another plus is that for setting a base for structures or town the plywood base can be placed at any elevation needed.
This is "L" girder with combination of pine spline and plywood cookiecutter subroadbed.
If you are modelling a local that is relatively flat and only need minor cuts for drainage, steams and water, carving out these in a 2" foam may be all that you need.
One question I have, is why don't you wasnt to use the cork or ? to "jack up" the track. Yes, I see that for yards laying track on the flat sheet of Homasote, cork, etc is far easier to scenic/ballast the yard, but roadbed especially for mainline the track is elevated for proper drainage and grading with ballast. Juast abouty every prototype will show a ballast profile for the elevated trackage.
Celotex makes a sound deadening board, 4x8 sheets, 1/2 in thick, about $7 a sheet in Omaha. Only at building supply places that cater to contractors. It is a fiber based (not paper based) so its softer than Homasote and won't hold spikes as well (only a problem if you are hand laying). Have never used it myself, don't know how dimensionally stable it is.
Do an internet search for homasote. You'll find the manufacturer's website. Put in your zip code under 'Where to Buy" and see if there is a retailer near you.
It is still a product being manufactured and sold. You just need to look beyond the bid box stores.