Handlaying track

[nfmisso]

And don't forget the Jan and Feb 2004 issues of MR, Iain Rice's series.

[Anonymous]

I will edit in some links for you. I'm throwing a layout party at www.trainboard.com and some one asked about net primers for handlaying track so I will post that here:

Here is a list of links for you to hand lay track. If you look, you will see there is a forum at Yahoo! groups dedicated to hand laying track, techniques and questions you might have. If I were you I'd definitely join that forum if you are hand laying.

http://www.fielder-rowe.freeserve.co.uk/track.html

http://www.railwayeng.com/handlay6/hndly-h3.htm

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/handlaidtrack/

http://www.gatewaynmra.org/trackwrk.htm

http://www.jamesriverdiv.homestead.com/Raillaying.html

http://home.freeuk.net/nmrabr/track/turnout1.htm

http://www.awrr.com/turnouts.html

[Big_Boy_4005]

Staggering is fine and actually prefered. The fewer joints the better, and smoother your track will be, and there is no reason to make short scraps of rail on each curve. I wouldn't go out of my way to make them not line up though.

Joints take a little extra work. Its a good idea to solder them when they are straight and relaxed. Another thing that a lot of people do is notch the ties slightly so the joiner doesn't cause a small hump.

Occasionally you will need to allow for expansion, and not butt the rail ends tight. On these joints you will want to solder a small jumper wire around the joint, for electrical, while using the joiner for alignment.

It is a good idea to use insulating joiners for electrical gaps, so they don't accidentally close when the rail expands. If you dont like insulated joiners, you can use some epoxy to make sure that the gap doesn't close and file it smooth when its dry. Super gluing a small piece of styrene also works.

When laying track, completely spike one rail as a guide, then using your guages (you should have 2) spike the second. Your guages should be of the 3 point variery, and when laying curves the 2 points should be on the outside rail of the curve to ensure proper spacing. You will also need an NMRA guage, for turnouts and double checking normal track.

Turnouts are another topic, but that should get you started.

Have fun.[8D]

[Anonymous]

John:

When I lay track I stagger the actual ends of the rail sections. For cosmetic reasons I make a half cut in the rail at 39' intervals.

Randy

[BR60103]

What to do with joints is an old concern on the prototype.
In England, the keep the joints opposite each other. In the United States, the like to have the joint opposite the middle of the other rail.
Canada got into railroads a bit later than those two. We looked at both practices and decided that it really didn't matter!

If you're modelling US track, put a cosmetic fishplate every 39 feet and keep them opposite. Make the rail ends match the fishplate if you feel so inclined.

[johncolley]

I am thinking of handlaying code 83 on the main and 70 on other trackage and it occured to me that I didn't know if the folks who handlay lots of track allow the joints to be staggered wherever they come out or do they trim both rails even like flextrack? [?] johncolley tholcapn sailnrail