AltoonaRailroader wrote:I understand NS is the way to go but I'm SURE hobbiests used Brass track for several decades and dealt with the problems that arose. I have a stash of old brass track that I think I'll clean up and give a shot, maybe for some yard or small places that don't run like the mainline.
If you use the brass track, it would be a good idea to visit a Radio Shack or some other electronics store, and get a can of contact cleaner. This stuff restores oxidized brass to conductivity. (The oxide that forms on brass is non-conductive. The oxide that forms on NS conducts electricity.)
Dan
Right on, Dan Stokes!
Actually, the practical difference between the conductivity of different rail materials is miniscule unless you're down to Code 40 or below. Ditto the solderability (except for steel, which makes excellent scenic details like fence posts and parking lot wheel stops.)
For those who really want to give a John Allen sliding track cleaner some OOMPH (and their locomotives a workout,) line the holes in the car frame with brass bushings and load the tops of the roofing nails with lead! Don't forget to bevel the ends of that masonite slider so it won't catch on switch points and such.
Chuck (modeling Central Japan in September, 1964)
May be getting off topic, but...
There were a couple of threads on this forum a month or so ago about brass vs. NS track. At the risk of being flamed (can't imagine why it's such a big deal), I will say the main reasons why NS is preferred are:
1. The oxidation on NS is supposedly conductive to electricity. Not so with brass. So you can run on dirty NS track better than you can run on dirty brass. That just means less frequent cleaning required if you have NS.
2. Silver-colored rail of NS is more prototypical than the yellowish brass color.
Other than that, basic performance is the same. As long as you keep it clean, brass works just fine.
I could be wrong, but I believe brass is actually a better conductor than NS, and is easier to solder to, etc.
Dan Stokes
My other car is a tunnel motor
AltoonaRailroader wrote:I was really thinking about that lately. When I was a kid I had this same 4x8 platform and back then that's all there was was Brass track and I don't remember having any severe problems with it. I understand NS is the way to go but I'm SURE hobbiests used Brass track for several decades and dealt with the problems that arose. I have a stash of old brass track that I think I'll clean up and give a shot, maybe for some yard or small places that don't run like the mainline. I might get flammed too, but everyone has to start somewhere and I'd rather use a few pieces of old brass than to not use anything at all right? Besides after all this time I would almost bet that there are some really good cleaning solutions and techniques that will bring brass to life again, even if it's for small uses. Oh BTW, I usually end up getting some ancient POS loco, usually from Ebay that needs a little TLC, but I like to do that kind of thing ya know?
AR:
Actually, you might have the best luck if you use brass /on/ the mainline. Train running helps keep track clean, and since your main has a continuous loop you can build a John Allen Masonite slider car and put one of those POS locos to work dragging it around while you're busy with other things.
These slider cars were used to keep the G&D track clean - it was all brass. Cleaning and frequent running is how brass track is dealt with. If you don't have one of these cars, they're the easiest thing to build. Glue two roofing nails to a Masonite pad's smooth side, then drill two holes in the bottom of a boxcar. Insert the nails and place the car on the track so the rough side of the Masonite drags on the rails. Life-Like 40' boxcars are perfect for this, as they are dirt-cheap at train shows and have two hollow plastic lugs, projecting through the weight, with perfect spacing to drill out 1/8" for the nails.
But go ahead and experiment if you've already got the stuff. The worst that can happen is that you'll have to replace it, right?
Hi,
I would certainly not knock brass track, it served us well for decades. But the fact is that NS track corrodes much less quickly as opposed to brass. If you are building a layout where you can "easily" get to all the track to clean it, and have brass on hand, I sure would use it. But for places hard to get to or for a larger layout, I would go the NS route.
In any case - Build the Layout - and ENJOY !!!!
Mobilman44
ENJOY !
Living in southeast Texas, formerly modeling the "postwar" Santa Fe and Illinois Central
I've used Atlas for as long as I can remember and never experienced a quality issue. Model Power is almost as good and you would be hard pressed to tell the difference except in flexibility as someone posted earlier.
I would only buy nickel silver track as it has better conductivity. Pricewise, your best bet is packages of 10 or 100, and you can get some deals on mail order - or perhaps your LHS too.
My opinion is that Atlas/Model Power have had a good lock on the flex track market since day one, and there is little opportunity for improvement from other manufacturers that would be profitable for them. Kind of like Athearn & MDC years ago with their kits - they had the market sewed up, gave good value for the money, and there just wasn't room for improvement at that price range. MRC power packs is another good example, or KD couplers.................
Hey, ENJOY !!!!
AltoonaRailroader wrote:Wow, thanks for the break down Autobus. This is why I love asking questions on the this board.
Glad to be of help. Before I get fried for that post (as I expect to be), I should repeat that NS track and nice new switches probably are the best way to go, but that old stuff /can/ be made to work. I do believe very strongly in saving up for the good stuff, but I'd never have gotten anywhere in this hobby, as a kid, if I didn't raid train shows for old brass track and battered trainset locomotives.
SpaceMouse wrote: fwright wrote: Model Power makes (imports) some inexpensive code 100 flex track.Beat me to it.
fwright wrote: Model Power makes (imports) some inexpensive code 100 flex track.
Model Power makes (imports) some inexpensive code 100 flex track.
Beat me to it.
Folks:
The LHS carries this. I've tried it. It's stiffer than Atlas but looks about the same, and trains run fine on it.
I'm imagining, AR, that you're concerned about cost. So am I. One thing you might do is buy track at a train show. I'd picked up a bunch without any intent to use it, but kept it, and now I'm using it. Most trainshow track, such as mine, will be brass, and some steel. NS is sometimes available but sells out fast, because people want it. Nobody wants brass or steel, so it's a huge bargain, especially in the mixed boxes of unsorted track from somebody's collection, that sell for a few dollars.
These unwanted materials, indeed, are not ideal,but they're really cheap, and if you replace the bad rail joiners, clean the track carefully, and keep it clean in use, it will work until you find something better. I let an old Lifelike F drag a John Allen slider car around the main loop at breakneck speed every few days, for about half an hour, and catch spurs and stubborn spots with a rag dampened with isopropyl alcohol. With my small railroad, this hasn't been an overwhelming task, but I'd hesitate to fill a whole basement with brass before experimenting on a small scale for a little longer.
Be careful with used switches. A lot of them are damaged, but even if not, some are more desirable. Here is what I have found in my experience with used HO track:
Atlas - usually a good bet, if condition is good. Some older (kitbuilt) examples are very nice, with all-rail frogs. Broken switches may have good machines attached. Beware of fiber ties on very early examples.
Atlas clones, such as Lifelike - not bad. I have two of the LL "Snap Switches". They work about like my Atlas ones. Watch for heavy plastic frog and guardrail wear on any "Snap-Switch". Such wear may not be a dealbreaker, but it may require some attention.
Tru-Scale - Good-working switches that can be somewhat odd and inflexible due to wood base. "Hi-Speed" line has closing frog. Many have extended sections to bring the diverging route parallel with the through route.
Casadio - Less robust than Atlas, but not bad. Their no. 4's are actually that, not ~4 1/2 like Atlas, which caused me some consternation when trying to use both together. I think these were sold by AHM. Beware of the single-point automatic "spur switch". I don't know how reliable it is, but it sure isn't a regular switch.
Bachmann - Not good. Not an Atlas clone, but a very odd and frail design, and usually steel. I don't like these. Pay 25 cents for one if you want to try it out.
Most plain plastic-tie sectional track will be usable. Some older track is fragile, and comes away from the ties easily. I usually clean the track with alcohol and a rag, after gently scraping off heavy dirt and corrosion with a razor blade. Tyco steel seems to need a lot of scraping.
fwright wrote: Model Power makes (imports) some inexpensive code 100 flex track.Fred W
Fred W
Chip
Building the Rock Ridge Railroad with the slowest construction crew west of the Pecos.
cacole wrote: If you get it from the right source, Peco is not that much more expensive than Atlas, and it is much higher quality. For HO scale, Cherry Creek Hobbies in Torrington, Wyoming is a good place to shop, regardless of brand name.http://www.cchobbies.com
If you get it from the right source, Peco is not that much more expensive than Atlas, and it is much higher quality.
For HO scale, Cherry Creek Hobbies in Torrington, Wyoming is a good place to shop, regardless of brand name.
http://www.cchobbies.com
Thanks for the input. I took a look at that site and you're absolutely right, the prices really aren't that much different.
Vail and Southwestern RR wrote: From my impressions, everything cheaper than Atlas lacks quality. A little more expensive than Atlas is Micro Engineering. They cleverly don't have a website, but their stuff is sold by many on-line retailers.Is there something about Atlas you don't like?
From my impressions, everything cheaper than Atlas lacks quality. A little more expensive than Atlas is Micro Engineering. They cleverly don't have a website, but their stuff is sold by many on-line retailers.
Is there something about Atlas you don't like?
No, not that I have a problem with Atlas it's just that there doesn't seem to be very many options. Thanks for posting.
Jeff But it's a dry heat!
Seeing how I'm starting to put my plan into action I've been looking for track but all I see is Atlas, Atlas, Atlas. Out of all the manufacturers out there can it be true that Atlas is the only relatively inexpensive track maker out there? Can anyone help me here, there has to be more options right? And no, I'm not getting into PECO or Shinohara(sp?) because that is WAY out of my price range at this time.
Oh, sorry about that, it's HO Scale.
Thanks Peeps.