My son,Will,and I are constructing new benchwork for a new layout.We're trying an idea I had of assmbling the framework with wood dowels instead of screws.The idea is to give the benchwork a cleaner,neater appearance than is possible with screws.
This is an old domino we built using screws.The dominoes are 4' long by 2' wide.They are made up of 1X4 frame,2X2 legs,and 1X4 bracing near the bottom of the legs.We use 5/16" T-nuts and hex head bolts for levelers.The top is 1/2" plywood.
The new dominoes will incorporate the same features except that the frames will be assembled with 3/8" wood dowels,2" long and 1/4" hardboard tops.
More to come later.
Have a good one.
Bill B
Here's your photo:
Don Z.
Research; it's not just for geeks.
Thank you,Don. How did you do that?
Bill,
Go to your Photobucket album and find the picture you wanted to post. If you look under the small version of your photo, there are 4 links below the photo. Simply click on the last link titled IMG Code. You'll see the word "Copied" appear. Now come back to the forum and when replying or posting a new thread, right click and select "Paste". Your hyperlink to your photo is automatically inserted into your thread and the photo will appear after you post your response or new thread.
Here's an example:
Please keep in mind that these instructions are based on MS Internet Explorer being used as the browser. I hope this helps,
Don,It sure did! Thanks!
It looks like you've got it figured out!
billbtrain wrote: My son,Will,and I are constructing new benchwork for a new layout.We're trying an idea I had of assmbling the framework with wood dowels instead of screws.The idea is to give the benchwork a cleaner,neater appearance than is possible with screws.
While appreciate your craftsman ship what if you have to change the location of a cross piece, say if it falls where you need to place your switch machine? You will have to drill your benchwork for installation of wiring and installation of your control panel. When you place foam on top of it, the side foam will become the ugliest part of the layout.
The benchwork is a frame. Why not save your craftsmanship for the finish work which will show after the rough construction is done. When I put an oak fascia around my benchwork, No one will see the screws. If they stick their head under the finish work and find them, they're looking too close.
Chip
Building the Rock Ridge Railroad with the slowest construction crew west of the Pecos.
Thanks,Chip.
My thoughts are that until I get to the point of attaching a facia to the layout,I'd like to have a better looking surface for each domino on each side and end.I'm using a better grade of lumber for the side and end rails than on the originals.And even though it won't be viewed when the work is done,I don't want to look at screwheads as I'm doing now on the computer table I built using the old methods.
The dominoes I'm constructing now will be for a yard.I'm designing everything so that most of the switches won't be placed at a joint or support (exceptions expected of course).All switches will be operated with ground throws and all track laid on Woodland Scenics trackbed sheets.I've been a fan of David Barrow and his Cat Mountain & Santa Fe and his techniques and ways of looking at layout construction appeal to me.Everything I've worked on in the past has been a test for different ways of construction and materials.
The only way to construct your dominoes so there are no screwheads showing on the outside of the framework is to use pocket hole joinery as I did in this photo:
The joint is actually stronger because you're not attaching the fastener to end grain, but into side grain. You can learn more about the jig I used at this web site:
http://www.kregtool.com/products/pht/index.php
For the purpose of constructing the new dominoes I first needed a jig to aid in the assembly work.I use an old domino with siderails and one end rail attached along with inner rails all made with 1X4's and a 2X2 inner end rail.
The opposite end is open for easy removal of completed frames from the jig.The side and end piece are placed in the jig,then bored with a 3/8" woodbore drill and pegged with 2" long dowel at 3 places per joint.
I'm using Titebond woodglue,original with a red label for all gluing.It drys and sets fast and strong.Next step will be adding the 1X4 interior supports for the 1/4" hardboard.These will be on their side aligned with the top of the framework and attached with dowels as well.Now I have to play catch up to post more photos.
Hmmm. Interesting,Don.I've never seen that done.
Don Z wrote:Bill,The only way to construct your dominoes so there are no screwheads showing on the outside of the framework is to use pocket hole joinery as I did in this photo:The joint is actually stronger because you're not attaching the fastener to end grain, but into side grain. You can learn more about the jig I used at this web site:http://www.kregtool.com/products/pht/index.phpDon Z.
Don,
That's really nice work you've done there.
I was thinking about building my upcoming Pacific Terminal RR in much the same way, but wasn't sure about using unreinforced pocket-hole joinery on plywood (for various reasons, I'll be using 23/32 plywood ripped to 1x4 equivalents). I was also feeling that corner bracing (short legths of 2x3) would be necessary.
Based on what appears to be a distinct lack of either reinforcement or vertical support (legs), it looks like you're confident about the strength of this construction. What is your span between legs, and how are you protecting against future sagging? (Boy, could those questions be taken out of context...)
I notice that most joints are made with two pocket holes, but some have three. Could you explain to us why?
Also, what is the purpose of the three nut/bolt/washers that we see near the center of the photo (but don't appear to match up to any joints?)
Peter
Peter,
You caught me! The joints where I used 3 pocket holes instead of 2 are the result of me forgetting to space the holes evenly instead of drilling both holes before I moved the pocket hole jig. Purely accidental...
You wrote: Also, what is the purpose of the three nut/bolt/washers that we see near the center of the photo (but don't appear to match up to any joints?)
The pointed section of benchwork is a separate module and the bolts are used to join the different sections of benchwork together. My layout has either 9 or 10 modules bolted together...
If you use the coarse thread screws into your plywood, the joints should be reasonably strong. I have climbed onto my benchwork in the past when I replaced my backdrop masonite. I used diagonal legs that go back to the wall and are then bolted to studs within the wall. Let me know if you have any other questions or if I need to clarify my answers.
Here's a shot of a couple of the legs:
Is there any chance you could take some pics of your benchwork mountings along the wall. Everything looks so neat and organized. I'm looking for something like this, since I have some nice walls I don't want to tear them up too bad for the next owner. I'm trying to get by with having a minimal amount of srews and lag bolts into the walls. I'm planning a 15X28ft layout around the room walls. probably 24-30" wide with a drop down in the doorway and a 3-5' peninsula down the middle. Thanks in advance.
Mike
Mike,
Let me try to explain the mounting method since it is so simple...the vertical piece you see flat against the walls is attached to the underside of the benchwork with pocket hole screws. The lower part of that piece is attached to a stud in the wall with a 3" deck screw. The bottom end of the diagonal brace hides that screw and the diagonal brace is attached to the back piece with pocket hole screws. Let me know if you need more information. Here's a closer photo of the diagonal leg.
Just an FYI. I built this layout with exposed screws. I added this fascia screwed from the inside out. You don't see any screws now.
I completed the first frame yesterday and glued the 1/4" masonite top to it tonight.The frame consists of the 4' side rails and tne 22 1/2" end rails.Next for this domino will be attaching the 3 inner supports as soon as I figure and mark the locations for these.
I also setup the 1X4 pieces for the next domino in the jig,ready to bore the 3/8" holes and peg with the 2" long dowels.
Earlier I sanded the corners of the first frame.Looks really good.I get a lot of satisfaction creating something like this.
An interesting take on the domino approach. i guess it does warrant pointing out however that David Barrow, who also likes furniture quality benchwork, also reuses his dominos and more importantly, takes the tops off so that he can work on complex trackwork at the workbench rather than in place -- or at least that was one of the virtues he claims for dominos. Thus being able to take them apart repeatedly is a virtue.
Dave Nelson
Here is the first frame with the masonite top added.
And here is a photo of the leg pocket assembly to be added.
My second layout was mounted to the wall on two of three sides in the room. One piece of that layout was mounted on 4 2X2 legs with adjusting screws in the bottom of the legs. I scrapped that layout after about a year and the new layout does not connect to the walls anymore. Having a large, modular layout that cannot be easily adjusted both vertically and horizontally turned out to be a major pain in the neck for me.
Just my 2 cents.
Joe Daddy
Visit my blog where I chronicle my lessons learned and expose the urban legends of model railroading.
http://wwwjoe-daddy.blogspot.com/
Hi Don,
Thanks for replying back. I really really like this setup. If it's not too much trouble is there a possibliity you could tell me what size lumber you used. I would not be using the "pocket hole " method but will be drilling countersinks and dressing it up some. Sis you have and photos of the strat to finish process, such as progress photos. Thanks again. Very nice job! Oh, did you se ash hardwood?
Thanks, Mike
I used 1x4 poplar hardwood for the frame of my layout. There are three main reasons that I used this lumber over 1x4 pine from Lowe's or Home Depot. First reason: I don't have a lot of time to spend sorting through the bins at Home Depot or Lowe's trying to find straight lumber that isn't loaded with knots. Second reason: The lumber store where I bought my material always has it in stock, it's always straight and the price was actually cheaper than Home Depot for the same product. Third reason: I can buy the material in lengths up to 16 feet, allowing me to build my benchwork longer than 8 foot if desired.
Be advised that drilling into the end grain of your wood to join the frame is the weakest type of joint you can make...the end grain doesn't provide enough bite for the screws to grab. Are you asking about progress photos of my benchwork or the railroad in general? I built my benchwork in about 4 hours time and had most of it hung on the walls with temporary legs in about 4 hours time....
At Walthers showroom in Milwaukee they have been building a new display layout. I was admiring the beautiful quality of the 1 x 4s they used -- clean clear wood, no knots worth speaking of, straight and even. Premium quality stuff.
A pile of new uncut boards was in one corner and it was my wife who noted that it was imported from Sweden!
Here's what I did today in between other things.
Added the Leg Pockets to the first domino.
Added 2X2 bus anchors with bolts.
And added center supports.
Next will be the bus wires and then add the Leg assemblies.I also started pegging the second domino.
Can someone enlighten me on the term "Domino" as it applies here. Is it a regional thing? Is it a model railroading thing? I have never heard it used in this context before.
GUB
GUB,
Do a search for 'David Barrow' on the forum. I think he's the man behind the Domino Theory. He's an architect here in Austin, TX and his layout has been featured in MR several times through the years. He designed his benchwork in modules of matching sizes that are joined end to end like a row of dominoes on a table.
'Domino' was coined by David Barrow to describe the layout sections he used for his Cat Mountain & Santa Fe HO railroad.His layout and construction techniques have been presented in Model Railroader during the 1980's and 90's and twice in Model Railroad Planning.A domino can be 4' to 6' long and anywhere from 12" to 30" wide and any desired height.A series of dominoes can be assembled to any layout configuration needed to complete a model railroad.The tops of the dominoes can be removed for maintenance,repair,or rebuilding as needed('top' in this instance can be just the plywood or the plywood/frame assembly removed from the legs or base of each domino).
I basically use the term domino the same as David Barrow,but my top sheet is glued to the 1X4 framework.It can be removed from the leg assembly simply by lifting it off for the same reasons listed above.
In some cases the words 'domino','section','module',etc can be used interchangably.It just depends on personal preferences.
Bill & Don
Thanks. You learn something new everyday. Again thanks for the explanation.
My progress to date.One domino completed ready for roadbed sheets and track.
Bus wires added.
Leg/crossbrace assembly added.