Please Help The Dummy!

[Anonymous]

In your case, light sanding will not kill you. I hear a lot of people cringe when I say sandpaper, but I used to do a lot of autobody work, and some of the finer grits (800 to 1000 and above) barely scratch paint (if you don't use a block, or press too hard,) let alone remove enough metal rail to sneeze at.

Sand it lightly due only to the amount of time the track has been dormant. After that keep the track up with the erasers / goo gone. (AND DON'T SHOVE IT IN THE ATTIC EVER AGAIN... SHAME ON YOU!)

One more little product I absolutely love.... RAIL ZIP (walthers.com) Rail Zip is great once the rails are clean. It keeps the oxidation down, and helps maintain continuity through most routine buildup with only a few drops here and there.

Good luck...

[IRONROOSTER]

As Randy said above check your sections for conductivity. Assuming you did not solder the joints, you may have to dis-assemble the track, clean the ends and use fresh rail joiners. Some of the liquids such as No Ox or Rail Zip might help also. I would not use any abrasive since they leave tiny scratches where the crud accumulates.
Enjoy
Paul

[Anonymous]

Len: Another great track cleaner is a product called Goo-Gone available I think in most hardware stores etc. It's a chemical that is used to remove that gummy stuff you get when you pull price tags off of things. Another old-timey product is Wahl's hair clipper oil. Just a couple of thoughts. Good luck on your layout [:)]

JR

[Anonymous]

Here's another method of cleaning your tracks: isopropyl alcohol on a rag. I know, nothing to it, simple eh?

[der5997]

Just a thought about those jumper cables to power the loco for testing. If you can get hold of an older style suede leather cleanig brush (newer oners have plastic bristles, no good.) the kind with brass wire bristles, do this..
with a pair of pliers pull out the second row of bristles from the end of the brush. Make sure that no bristles from the remaing rows touch across the gap you've just made. Now clip your aligator clips from the power pack into the end row of bristles, and the third or any other remaing row. Presto, you have a test rack for your N scale locos. This works for HO too folks, and costs far less than the rig sold at your LHS. It cleans the wheels as well as tests for conductivity. [8D]

[Anonymous]

First, what type of track do you have down - brass or nickle-silver?

Second, try the silver and brass polishers. I use whatever is sitting beside me at the time of decision to clean track; it could be brasso for example. I also use a paste that I have forgotten the name of - Autosol. Some have used a Fitz paste they like. These will make your tracks sparkle again - don't use sand paper as it will put microscopic scratches in the track which will attract future "grunge."

[Anonymous]

Len:
You may want to use something called Crocus (sp?) Paper. I bought a chunk of this stuff attached to a wood block at a sale, and it even worked on brass rail. I think it is nothing more than very fine grit wet/dry sandpaper.

[Anonymous]

Len:

You have an elimination problem. It could be the track, it could be the engine, it could be partially both.

Easiest way is to take the loco to the LHS and test it on their track. Or you could use 'jumper cables' on it. IE. wires from the output side of your power pack to the pickups on the locomotive. You can make them with 'aligator' clips on the ends to clip on the pickups or you can flatten the ends with a light hammer and touch them to the drivers to check for engine pickup. Likely you will have to take the engine apart and clean the contacts and lubricate the appropriate parts of the drive line.

You will need a voltage tester to check sections of your track for conductivity. They are pretty cheap and come with a booklet which shows you how to use them. You have some work ahead of you: Systematic, time consuming, but not too complex. At 10 your son can learn it easily and you two will have a satisfying few hours in getting the project "up and running".

Good Luck and have fun

Randy

[Anonymous]

This may be a bit long winded, but please bear with me..

I started to build an "N" gage layout about 8 years ago. Once the track was layed and wired, I lost interest and was side tracked (no pun intended). Now my son is 10 and has expressed an interest in getting the layout running and finishing the project.

The layout is built on a 4' x 8' sheet of plywood with an open frame below it. It has been stored in the rafters of my garage since I stopped working on it all those years ago. When we pulled it down to start again, the track was very dusty and dirty. I have tried the "Brite Boy" eraser with only mixed results.

Is there some type of solvent that I can use to make it easier?

I have been told not to use sandpaper, what about something like a 600 or finer grit?

I also origionaly purchased one locomotive (Kato diesel) so that I could test the track wiring and switch function. When I stored the layout everything worked. Now I am suspect that some of my problems may in fact be with the loco as well as the track.

How do these things come apart for cleaning and oiling? How can I ensure that the wheels are clean?

I dont have a problem buying another loco, but running a new loco over suspect track can't be good for it.

Any and all advice will be GREATLY appreciated!

Len [e-mail]