Module Bench work advice sought

[Medina1128]

When most of my benchwork was completed and wanted to add-on an extension, I made them using modules. I used plain pine 1x4 in making the new sections (2x4 ft. per section). I know a lot of people use nuts and bolts to attach them, but I used what I had on hand (drywall screws). I bought some 3/8 inch dowel from Ace Hardware. When I was ready to attach the new section, I clamped the new section to the existing one, drilled and doweled the sections. I put a small taper on the end of the dowel that will be used to align the removable section. This makes it much easier to align and reattach the sections.

[selector]

This is a highly germane discussion.  When I was fabricating my module boxes, and after I had fixed leg supports to them and fastened them together, I went below each of them and used a marker to write their respective weights on a plank where it would be highly visible.  Some of mine were already at 48 lbs minus the scenery!  My guess is that each of now them tops 70 lbs.  Horsing one of those around corners, and then angling the leading edge upward and up a flight of stairs is not going to be a one-man job.

[ndbprr]

I think there is a good possibility your module could weigh as much as 40# with a large amount of scenery.  Suppose I am off by a factor of two so it only weighs 20#.  Taking into consideration the shape of 2' x 4' you should be ok.  I don't think I want to move something very far that weighs more than a bowling ball while holding it at arms length.

[ratled]

Thanks guys for the responses.  I guess I could have added a little more info to go on.   What I am doing is building a room sized layout based on the June 07 MR Red Rock Northern in HO.  I just don't a have a room for it.  I do have space to "store" it when not in use - hence the module format.  I did like he stuff I have read on the dominos systems.  I won't be able to make a basic sized module size each will guided by the track plan but will try to keep it in the 2' X  4' range.

 

I'm going to used ripped ply for the frame. I'm leaning towards cardboard draped plaster cloth shell since I'm thinking it will be lighter than foam. 

 

What I would like is to see some pictures of module bench work, how you protect the edges, what is being done it terms of wiring practices, and how folks are storing the modules, protecting it from the dust and bangs that may come from those who travel.

 

Thanks again for the info

 

ratled

[IRONROOSTER]

The single most important factor and to me, and everything else is just details, is how big a size and how heavy a weight can you lift by yourself.  This from a guy who when he was thirty thought he would be able to get a 3' x 8' "module" out of his basement by himslef when the time came.  I did but it wasn't 3' x 8' when it finally wound up on the curb.

Good Point.

Enjoy

Paul 

[ndbprr]

The single most important factor and to me, and everything else is just details, is how big a size and how heavy a weight can you lift by yourself.  This from a guy who when he was thirty thought he would be able to get a 3' x 8' "module" out of his basement by himslef when the time came.  I did but it wasn't 3' x 8' when it finally wound up on the curb.

[Autobus Prime]

r:

Use a conventional grid construction of some type. Brace it well. Use some type of glue at joints as well as mechanical fasteners (such as screws) to hold until the glue dries.

You can use ripped plywood, or you can select your 1x4s carefully for straightness.

What construction you use isn't as important as the care you take during construction. I would pick up a cheap combination square and rafter square. I presume you already have a tape measure. The rafter square is to help you keep structural members square with each other. The combination square is to help you cut off the ends squarely, and for scribing lines at a distance from an edge, useful in marking out screw locations.

After some trouble with this in my current layout, I recommend that you buy or build some corner clamps, and fasten the corners with blocks, instead of relying on the squareness of the structural members, which can be disappointing.

Drill carefully for dowels where your tables butt together. The bolt holes can then be slightly oversize. If you just use carriage bolts, you rely on friction to keep everything aligned. This seems to work for a lot of people, though. You can always add dowels later.

[Seamonster]

The others seem to have covered the construction aspect well so I'll just speak to the electrical connections.  My layout is composed of 2' wide sections either 4' or 8' long with a "balloon" at each end--a wider piece--so I can turn trains.  (I'm in N scale.)  For electrical I'm using barrier terminal strips and lugs on wires.  I have standardized on a set of wiring busses--track power from two throttles, sound, structure lighting, etc.--and these run the length of each section.  At one end the wires attach to a barrier terminal strip and at the other end they hang free.  The terminal strips are numbered and I've written numbers on the lugs on the free ends.  Lug #1 goes to terminal strip screw #1 etc.  I don't plan to take apart the sections very much, but when I do I just have to undo a bunch of screws to free the wires from the adjoining section then match the numbers when I put them back together again.

The advice to check NTrak for how to build standardized modules is good advice.  That was my starting point too.  To join my modules I aligned them, held them together with C-clamps then drilled holes for a pair of bolts with big washers on each side.  They aren't going anywhere!

 

[Blue Flamer]

Looking for info and pictures for building bench work for modules. I’m building a room sized around the wall type layout but without the room. I can store the modules when not in use I just can’t dedicate a room full time.

 What I am looking for is any tips, thoughts and pictures on module bench work. Particularly on protecting the modules when not in use, wiring thoughts, aligning tracks or anything else that might help.

 

Thanks in advance ratled

ratled.

Try going to the NTrak web site. They have a diagram of what they call the POFF or Plain Old Four Footer. It has all the measurements you would need to build 2Ft. by 4Ft. modules. You could use those measurements as a base and expand each module lengthwise or widthwise as your space dictates. These sizes make it simple to carry them through all but the narrowest of doorways without even taking off the legs. 

To make things easy for myself, I went to Home Depot and picked up their pre-cut lengths of Clear Pine to make mine. It comes in lengths of 2', 3', 4', 6', and 8'. and in nominal 1" X 2", 3", and 4" sizes. It may cost you a buck or two more to buy it this way, but it sure saves a lot of time and the aggrevation of cleaning up all that sawdust that gets tracked all through the house from the garage  to the train room, AKA the family room. Just bring it in the house and Glue & Screw it to-gether.    You can have the legs removable by just bolting them to the top.

I hope that this helps you in your pursuit of Railroading happiness.

Blue Flamer. 

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[fwright]

Looking for info and pictures for building bench work for modules. I’m building a room sized around the wall type layout but without the room. I can store the modules when not in use I just can’t dedicate a room full time.

 What I am looking for is any tips, thoughts and pictures on module bench work. Particularly on protecting the modules when not in use, wiring thoughts, aligning tracks or anything else that might help.

Thanks in advance ratled

You might want to take a look at some of the existing module standards.  If you use an existing standard you can set up with other module builders who use the same standards.  Each standard has had to solve the issues you mention in order to transport, set up, and take down their modular layouts efficiently.  If you do not fully comply with an existing standard, you probably cannot match up with mdoules other than your own - a perfectly legitimate choice, but you should realize the implications.

I assume you are talking HO.  I tend to favor Free-Mo (see http://www.free-mo.org/standard) for a modular standard because it features single or double track across the boundary, and has more flexibility than most in module design.  The disadvantage in Free-Mo for your situation is that the standard requires modules be operable from either side (means no backdrops), and modules are reversible.

For actual module construction, my favorite tutorial is here:  http://www.railwaybob.com/Modules/ModConstr/ModConstr01.htm

Hope this helps.

Fred W

[jktrains]

There are many things to consider

• How big (length and width) can you easily store?
• Ease with which you can set them up and take down - weight?
• Will you store them vertically or horizontally?
• Scenery desired.

There are alot of thing to consider before cut the first piece of wood.  A little forthought now will save a lot of frustration later.  Here's a few thoughts

Read up on David Barrow's dominio style benckwork.  Try to come up with a standard width and length.  This will safe time in construction, make storage easier and perhaps allow to mix up the order to change things around.  Avoid building one module that is 48" long, another that is 52.5" long and a third that is 46.5" long.  Each os those require different measurements and cutting.  With a standard design all you cuts will be the same cutting construction time.  You would also be able to stack them one of top of each other, with a spacer, to make storage/transportation easier.

For lumber I recommend 3/4" cabinet grade plywood - birch veneer or oak veneer, which every is cheaper.  The birch will paint nicely, the oak can be stained and finish to look nice while set-up.  The plywood can then be ripped into strips to construct the modules.  The plywood will be less likely to warp or twist that dimensional lumber.

Regarding trackwork and joints - plan ahead and avoid turnouts at module joints.  There are two basic options - spanner tracks/rails or butt joints.  Using spanner tracks adds some time to the set-up but is common done using a 9" or 6" piece of snap track.  Free-mo uses a 2" piece of rail only with the ties laid right to the module's end.  The other is to lay the track across the module joints and then cut them apart.  If doing this it is best to use something to solder the rails ends to to assure good alignment.

You also need to consider how to connect things eletrically from module to module.

Well just a few things to consider.

jktrains

[BATMAN]

I have used screws/bolts with tee nuts in the past to hold modules together. Alignment was always perfect. If possible, use a hardwood on the ends of the modules if it is to be taken apart often. Also if you can build the layout as if it is permanent and make the cuts to track, roadbed,subroadbed ect. and scenery after it's more or less complete, it will look better. Use the thinnest,sharpest cutting implements you can to do the job.

[ratled]

Looking for info and pictures for building bench work for modules. I’m building a room sized around the wall type layout but without the room. I can store the modules when not in use I just can’t dedicate a room full time.

 What I am looking for is any tips, thoughts and pictures on module bench work. Particularly on protecting the modules when not in use, wiring thoughts, aligning tracks or anything else that might help.

 

Thanks in advance ratled