That was what I needed to do.. the wire that comes with it was just too short. Once I cut a longer wire not only was it easier to adjust but easier to feed it through and hook it up.
I am only going through 1/2" plywood and two layers of cork roadbed so the .025 spring wire I bought years ago worked fine.
Thanks for the suggestions!
Chris
If you are running benchwork thick enough that you are barely having to cut anythign off the wire, a thicker wire is probably a good idea to maintain a good amount of force ont he points. Plus then you cna use nice long pieces and not have an issue with the wire comign otu of the throwbar hole while adjusting the Tortoise. For safety reasons I usually stick a flag a tape on the end of the wire sticking out until I cut it off.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
Chris..... for me I mounted the tortoises with a long wire, so that it extended above the track. When I was done moving and adjusting the tortoise using the velcro, I then cut an finished the wire above the turnout. This kept the wire in the hole as I adjusted it. Maybe this helps.
Hal
cacole wrote: I've had equally good luck using Scotch double-sided heavy duty foam tape. I don't remember the product's code number or exact name, but it is 1 inch wide, is gray, and has a red plastic material in between the layers.
I've had equally good luck using Scotch double-sided heavy duty foam tape. I don't remember the product's code number or exact name, but it is 1 inch wide, is gray, and has a red plastic material in between the layers.
Same here. I use the double-sided foam tape to get it properly aligned. Once it is working properly, I add 2 #6 1/2" screws to hold it in place.
Engineer Jeff NS Nut Visit my layout at: http://www.thebinks.com/trains/
donhalshanks wrote:Answering a previous question, I've had 3 tortoises in place a year with the heavy duty velcro (no screws), and I did modify one of them once to use a heavier wire. No problems yet with performance.Hal
Answering a previous question, I've had 3 tortoises in place a year with the heavy duty velcro (no screws), and I did modify one of them once to use a heavier wire. No problems yet with performance.
I installed my first toirtoise using velcro today. It seems to work pretty well. The only problem I had was that to adjust it I had to pull down on the velcro to "disengage" which can cause the spring wire to pop out of the hole resulting in frustration of putting wire back in...
I think I have some extra long spring wire I bought when I was thinking I would be having to mount through foam a few years back. I will try using that to give myself a little more leeway during the initial adjustment to pull the thing off without pulling out of the turnout.
I simply use the screws, it does not have to be perfect.
I did recently add .032 wire to a few Peco turnouts. The springs have been removed but I was still getting a short on one of the turnouts but only in one dirrection. Seems like it should be a no brainer, just move the Tortoise over, but it did not work. After replacing the wire there has not baan any shorts.
John
Thanks Hal, I will give that a try.
I've been mounting them at a friend's layout using velcro to position but then driving screws up into the plywood. Beats trying to hodl the Tortoise in palce, even though alignment isn;t too tricky since this layout is finescale N so the points don't have very far to move.
I did some experimenting on my layout and once again I see latex caulk as being a good option. My layout is just foam on top, no wood underneath,a dn I was mounting the toirtoises fromt he top, but I tried stickign on ont he bottom with caulk. After about 5-7 minutes holding and adjusting it, it was able to hold itself on, and after the caulk dried overnight it wasn't coming off. If you're worried a little clamp or alligator clip on the wire up top will keep it from fallign down until the caulk dries. You CAN get it off should it need to be repalced but it takes soem effort to bust it loose, no way will it come loose just from normal operation. This shoudl work equally well with foam or plywood or other material.
donhalshanks wrote:I'll second the Velcro approach. Worked excellent for me, and with the industrial strength velcro, I haven't even installed screws. (Not my idea, came from previous posts in this forum)Hal
I'll second the Velcro approach. Worked excellent for me, and with the industrial strength velcro, I haven't even installed screws. (Not my idea, came from previous posts in this forum)
How long have you had these attached using velcro only? Have you ever needed to re-attach or adjust?
I like the idea of velcro only since I plan to cannibalize the electronics in my "test" layout I am building now when I start in on my larger one. I will replace all the dcc controlled torti with some kind of push rod.
Tried that...problem was, if the four holes aren't perfect, it is hard to move and adjust...the velcro lets you do that... just my method...many others work too...
Brian
First, I have to say thanks to many of you who have given me such GREAT ideas.... I just wanted to share one, that mayhap came from you all, but I can't remember.
For those of us who don't have 3 hands, mounting a tortise beneath your foam, wood, etc. can be challenging, to say the least. My solution. A $2.99 box of velcro (lasted me for at least 20 tortoises...probably another 20 in there...). Cut a piece and attach to the tortoise top and then to where "about" you expect it to go. Adjust to your heart's content and then just screw in... no more dropping screws, dropping tortoise, banging head (insert swear words here!). Anyway, works well for me. My time for installing a switch went from like an hour per switch to like 15minutes!!! WOOOOHOOO!!! Good luck with installing all the switches.
P.S. What also helped me go faster is using the THICKER wire for the switches...MAN this makes it SOOO much easier! You guys were right.
P.P.S Oh, yeah and edge connectors are the bomb...no more burning chest hair (follow with expletives, thunk (as head hits wood underside of benchwork), and more expletives...)