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N scale layout and HO cork? Plus a few other ramblings....

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  • Member since
    December 2003
  • From: St Louis
  • 516 posts
Posted by mls1621 on Monday, September 24, 2007 2:48 PM
 loathar wrote:
 GraniteRailroader wrote:

I didn't really plan on changing the width of the HO cork, but now that I'm thinking about it...I might just do that.

Yep. I don't think it would look right if you don't narrow it. The cork cuts real EZ with a razor knife.

MLS1621-MAN! I love your layout! 

Thankyou, I learned everything I know about model railroading from my neighbor.

Mike St Louis N Scale UP in the 60's Turbines are so cool
  • Member since
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  • From: Amish country Tenn.
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Posted by loathar on Monday, September 24, 2007 1:06 PM
 GraniteRailroader wrote:

I didn't really plan on changing the width of the HO cork, but now that I'm thinking about it...I might just do that.

Yep. I don't think it would look right if you don't narrow it. The cork cuts real EZ with a razor knife.

MLS1621-MAN! I love your layout! 

  • Member since
    December 2003
  • From: St Louis
  • 516 posts
Posted by mls1621 on Monday, September 24, 2007 12:27 PM

I put my sidings directly on grade to differentiate them from the mainline.  I used Woodland Scenics 2% grade material for the transition and it worked well.

The angle of this picture doesn't show the elevation difference, but the transition worked well.

If you're building on foam, you can use a round file to put ditches next to your mainline to give it more height as I did here.

Mike St Louis N Scale UP in the 60's Turbines are so cool
  • Member since
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  • From: Northeast
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Posted by GraniteRailroader on Monday, September 24, 2007 11:32 AM

I didn't really plan on changing the width of the HO cork, but now that I'm thinking about it...I might just do that.

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  • Member since
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  • From: Amish country Tenn.
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Posted by loathar on Monday, September 24, 2007 11:11 AM
If your using Midwest cork, N is 3mm thick and HO is 5mm thick. Cork sands real easy with some 220 grit(or coarser) sand paper. So no problem sanding a 2mm transition. If your going to cut the HO to N scale width, it's easy to sand new shoulders on too. Do this before you lay your track. 
  • Member since
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  • From: Northeast
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N scale layout and HO cork? Plus a few other ramblings....
Posted by GraniteRailroader on Monday, September 24, 2007 1:17 AM

I want to make my mainlines look a little "beefier" compared to sidings and some of the branches that are going to be coming off ot them. Has anyone else used HO roadbed for the mainlines of their N layouts? How hard is it to transition from the height of the HO roadbed to the N roadbed?

My idea was that perhaps I could use one of the planes they use for wood to "shave" the roadbed down and make a nice smooth transition of say a 6"-8" area since I can't imagine the difference to be more then about 1/4".

I imagine that passing sidings along the mainline would use "built down" track as well depending on how frequently they are using, but I could see that going either way. Having them slightly depressed compared to the main line would give it the prominant look I'm hoping for. Perhaps even help with the illusion that the main line in fact is a main line and not just a branch off the main.

I can't decide what code of track I'm going to use, so that's going to play a role in this as well. I was thinking Code 80 on the mains and passing sidings, with 55 off the main into the towns and industries, with code 40 along abandoned right of way and perhaps into some of the lesser used sidings that the railroad never saw fit to replace the rail as traffic decreased from the quarry.

The problem with using C40 for the "abandoned" track and "old" sections of the line, is that I'd have to be especially careful with what rolling stock I run on it. I'd be afraid of having it jump up and down hitting the ties if I didn't change over every single one of the wheelsets on all of my rolling stock, and even then I don't know what I would do for my locomotives' flanges...

K. Done rambling. :)

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