Hi,
I am trying to figure out a way to get the kind of steep track profile that I see around NH in places, especially northern NH where my "test" layout is to be situated.
The n-scale roadbed I have isn't high enough (3mm). I didn't trust my cutting skills enough to make a profiled plywood subroadbed so I cut that to 2" wide so I wouldn't oops into a roadbed too narrow. I have not been able to find extruded foam that is thin enough to make roadbed like that. In my area, most stores carry the 2" thick variety. I had considered laying it down over the plywood then carving in but that seems like a lot of work. Plus, I don't like working with the messy foam bits.
Here are some samples of what I am after:
http://photos.nerail.org/showpic/?200708261548277197.jpg
I have thought maybe trying to lay the WS n-scale roadbed I have on top of HO roadbed to create an extended slope. I could apply ballast to the WS part and apply ground foam and ballast mix to the HO part.
Any thoughts? Any easier ways to do what I want?
Thanks,
Chris
I was concerned HO would be too wide at the top used by itself. It may be a little short by itself, I would need to lay some test track to see.
Its probably worthwhile doing a quick test on a section of 1x2 regardless. Just seems kinda silly doing a test track for building a test layout!
Chip
Building the Rock Ridge Railroad with the slowest construction crew west of the Pecos.
Harder for me to have a centerline to lay the top layer and the track with.. but that might work. It would help me use up this WS stuff.
Since you're in an area where people use vinyl siding, try to locate Owens-Corning fan-fold underlayment. It's pink extruded foam about 9mm thick. If you know a siding contractor or someone who's getting their house resided you might be able to pick up enough odd pieces to avoid buying the whole 200 square foot bundle.
If you're modeling the N&W, PRR (pre-Conrail) or other company noted for top-of-the-line right of way (UP through Wyoming...) the N scale atop HO scale roadbed will give a very believable result. I model in twice-N scale, so I'm using fan-fold underlayment in place of any other roadbed material.
By all means, experiment. That's the difference between, "I think this will work," and, "I KNOW this will (or won't) work."
Chuck (modeling Central Japan in September, 1964)
Yes I am Chuck.. very popular up here.. the vinyl is nice for the winters. I will check that out.
I wouldnt say my area is noted for "top of the line" right of way, infamously the opposite really, but most of the roadbed goes back quite a ways and while a bit seedy, it tends to be well built up as far as drainage, as the pic shows. Thats why I think a combination of ballast that gives way to ground foam might give a good "Northern New England" look.
I found that foam insulation at home depot.. but it was $37 for a 50 foot pile. I will keep my eyes out for an opportunity to pick up a few pieces but otherwise its not economical.
I am hoping to get to my LHS on Friday to pick up some HO roadbed to try.
NASA test all the bits before they do a test flight... least, I hope they do!
Don't know if this is a daft question... how well do the roadbeds stick together? What glue do you use?
If that 9mm stuff Chuck mentions comes in big packs would it be good for lining stock boxes?
TIA
Find 1/2" thick foam and use that as your subroadbed. Add HO cork on top of that (three strips wide) and N scale cork on top of THAT (three strips wide). I just did this as a test for my new layout (central Illinois, where the roadbed generally looms high over the surrounding terrain) and it works great. I don't have any photos of my test (yet), but here are a few of my last layout, where I was adding 1/2" foam and HO cork, which worked equally as well.
The trick with the 1/2" foam is to cut it into strips and add it to the layout like cork. I used a 1x2 as a cutting guide and quickly ripped a 4'x8' sheet into 1-3/4" wide strips of 1/2" thick foam, and then added the material three strips wide along my center lines (a 4x8 sheet of foam will give you 72 linear feet of roadbed). Once the foam's down, it's easy enough to cut it to shape with a SHARP snap-bladed boxcutter.
Ray Breyer
Modeling the NKP's Peoria Division, circa 1943
Ray, that roadbed looks great! Definitely along the line I am looking for although maybe not quite so high. Finding 1/2" foam has been a problem though... I wanted some for other uses too. I found the stuff Chuck recommended but not in an affordable package. I like the idea of using foam to contour roadbed as well as bases for some scenic elements, but the 2" stuff is just too thick.
David, I will definitely post pics as soon as I get to the LHS to pick up some HO roadbed and give it a try, time permitting. I miss the days of the corner hobby shop where at the least you could pick up some cork in a pinch. The big advantage I see in the HO stuff is that it will mantain my centerlines as I pile up. I can't remember what web site I read it on.. but someone recommended using white marker to help highlight the line on the cork (it was for handlaying track) which I may do as well.
Just to update.. last night I finally got a chance to glue down some of the HO roadbed. I decided to skip the test track since, really, my little 30"x60" is supposed to be my test track..
The only issue I have so far is that, because of it's width, the HO roadbed is not stacking side by side together neatly when I have a siding at, say, 1.25" spacing. This means I will have to re-establish a centerline for laying the n-scale roadbed on top. This will be a non-issue with the single track portion of my little layout.
I am also not 100% thrilled with the profile, but I think its going to work out. Certainly, its should let me create ditches quite easily. I am hoping to re-establish the centerline using the white version of the blue dressmakers's tracing paper I used on the plywood.
If I could find a cheap source I still want to try 1/2" foam on top of the plywood which I could carrve to specific profiles and draw on more easily with a marker.
Last night I went to apply the woodland scenics roadbed on top of my HO cork roadbed. What horrid stuff! I couldn't stand it. I pulled up the section I had glued down and plan to go today to get n-scale cork.
The woodland scenics was cut unevenly so it had an incorrect centerline. THis made it hard to track my carefully drawn centerline. It doesn't have any real stiffness to it so it does not natrually form a smooth curve like cork does. It also doesn't sand as well. I was very displeased.
The one plus is it stays in position the moment I press it into the liquid nails unlike the cork which needed to be tacked down. That was the only plus besides being cheaper.
I had several rolls of the stuff. I will save it for use putting down yard tracks in my next layout's staging yard where I dont really have to worry about tracking a centerline for curves and easements.
So.. the project continues.. hopefully I will have pics tonight.
davidmbedard wrote:For gosh's sake, post pics of your progress please...David B
For gosh's sake, post pics of your progress please...
David B
Here are some pictures of the profile I created using layered cork roadbed, N on HO.
I am about 3/4 done with trackwork. I will try to post some pics with track on that roadbed in the next day or two.
Dave-the-Train wrote: how well do the roadbeds stick together? What glue do you use?
how well do the roadbeds stick together? What glue do you use?
I use liquid nails for projects. Its foam safe, has nice initial adhesion, and releases its hold on cork if I slip a metal spreader under and pry. It seems to hold ok, better plywood to cork then cork to cork. I do have to tack the cork in place on the inside of curves until it sets, about an hour. It cures over night. I am hoping it transmits sound less then white glue.
Of the glues I have used on the layout.. liquid nails, white glue, and clear caulking, I find the liquid nails to be the best to work with in terms of set up time and spreadability. I have put down the first 2/3 of the track with caulking and I was not fond of that stuff. I will try liquid nails on the other 1/3 to compare both putting the track down as well as lifting off later.
It would be great to see the finished version with track and ballast.
I think I'll try this idea. Thanks for the pics and info !
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