ezmike wrote: It is a 1110 Scout from 1950, there doesn't seem to be much interest in Scouts out there. Although, it is a complete set.
It is a 1110 Scout from 1950, there doesn't seem to be much interest in Scouts out there. Although, it is a complete set.
Do you have the original boxes ??
I would do some more research first, it might have no value or some value or a great deal of value now, but it will be guaranteed to have about zero value if you repaint it.
p.s. might want to post questions about it on the "Classic Toy Trains" forum!!
It is a 1110 Scout from 1950, there doesn't seem to be much interest in Scouts out there. Although, it is a complete set. Let me think more about this and do some research.
Thanks for your thoughts.
Mike
loathar wrote:My advice...DON'T You might destroy it's value. I've seen chipped up Lionel stuff bring outrageous prices at auctions.
I agree with what Loathar says, don't try to repaint it unless you're absolutely sure you will never, ever, want to resell it. In many cases, antiques have been ruined or their value destroyed by repainting.
Jim,
Thanks, satin finish is what I thought would be best. All of the other steamers I have look like they have a satin finish rather than a flat and certainly not a gloss. I just wanted confirmation. I wasn't sure about removal though. I'll give the methods you suggest a try on a junker. The engine that I will paint only has the original pain so removal shouldn't be that hard. The junker only has one coat too so I can try both methods and see which looks best. Thanks again.
How much paint is on it now? If it's only one relatively thin coat, I think some sanding and cleanup with some paint thinner is all you'd need. If it's got a lot of coats of paint, you have to strip it. This will involve tearing down the locomotive and soaking the parts to be painted in paint thinner. You can also use paint stripper but I don't know if thats too strong and might damage some of the soldered components. It will involve a lot of toothbrush works in the cracks and crevices but you can get most of the paint off, at least enough to make an acceptable new paint job.
I'm assuming you're going to be painting it the standard engine black. If so, I've found Krylon satin paint goes on very nicely with minimal overspray. I've tried Rustoleum but find the spray head has way too wide a pattern and tends to splatter. I'd get a couple of different brands and try them on your junkers to see which ones you like best. Satin or medium gloss finish gives you the best surface for decaling. It will also show you areas that need a bit more touchup work better than flat. You can use Dulcote or Krylon's Flat Finish, which I find gives just as good a result as Dulcoat for a lot less money.
Good luck and let us know what you decide.
I want to repaint one of my steamers and need advice as to how to do it. Do I need to stip it to the bare metal? I would think that would give me the smoothest and cleanest finish, however, I do not have a sand/glass bead blaster. what other methods are there? What kind of paint, flat or satin finish? Is there a brand or place recomended to buy it? I'm limited to spray can type since I no longer have a sprayer.
I have a couiple of junkers to practice on.
Thanks