Soldering

[snowey]

 Thanks guys. I know of the whole search thing, but I find it so hard to get anywhere with it.Thanks again,

  Nagrom

as you can see; everyone has their own methods, just let me add my $ .02

I use a 35 watt pencil-tip iron from radio shack, resin core solder (THICK solder; I've also used thin however, and it doesn't make any difference which one). I don't use a seperate flux; you can however; but I find it doesn't make any difference. I only clean the area about 50 to 75%. And I find it doesn't matter if the joint's somewhat "cold".

One more thing, these methods have gotten me through 2 HO layouts with hardly any problems! Oh, one thing I DO agree on: keep the tip CLEAN!! (I have a wet sponge that I wipe the iron on after every time I use it.

[snowey]

sure; if you're comfortable with a computer; I'm not and terms like "HTML" and "saving on your computer" are all "greek to me"! I'm lucky if I can get an e-mail to go through when I click on "send" 

[richg1998]

To learn to solder properly, you have to develop your own procedure based on what others have told you in the post. Practice on track or items that you do not mind being damaged. This will help you develop a, suitable for you, technique. In the 1950s I started learning to solder and an old timer then told me to practice and never ever use acid core solder or flux for electrical work. There is a balance between solder, heat, flux, cleanliness of the items being soldered. Stay as far away from acid flux solder as you can. It is too easy to have solder laying around and you grab whatever is available not realizing you have the wrong solder. If you ever build brass models, then acid core solder is ok as you can neutralize the acid flux with a baking soda wash.

The club I belong to back in 1979 before I joined used common solder and flux from a hardware store to hand lay track and solder feeders. I mentioned this to the present members when I joined and was told, what do I know as I have not built a layout yet. In the early 1990s we began to experience occasional  operating issues that were corroded solder joints at junctions and feeders. They still haunt us once or twice a year. 

As far as searching goes, use patience. Take your time and read. Develop your own library in your computer of many of the articles you find on the 'Net. There is a tremendous amount of model railroad info on the 'Net.

Many articles I store as html documents in my computer, then I still have the original article if the site ever goes away. You can even scan model railroad magazines and store the articles. It is a lot easier to find info in my computer than finding the article in back issues.

Good luck.

Rich

[Gandy Dancer]

 My question for now, is how important is soldering, how do you do it and what do you need.

 I agree with a prior posted in that I think soldering is one of the essential skills for a model railroader. 

I found soldering to be a lot easier with a good soldering iron.  Mine has a stand (so I don't have to lay it on things that might burn) with a sponge (for tip cleaning), changeable tips, and a variable heat adjustment.  Then get thin rosin core solder.  The thick stuff (like used for plumbing) is too hard to heat.  The solid core type (most often) requires an external source of flux and the acid core type will eventually eat everything up. With rosin core solder and proper technique you do not need flux.  I also keep some "solder sucker" braiding in my tool box for when I want to take solder off of things. 

I solder hand laid track, brass locomotives, electronic components, all sorts of wires, track feeders to rail, and rail joiners on flex track curves.  Could not live with out it.

I believe there have been several threads posted on this subject and even some "clinics on soldering".  A bit of a search should turn up some great "how to"s.

[joe-daddy]

When I first started soldering track, I did it wrong. I was heating the track section up so hot that it melted ties. Someone showed me how to solder track correctly. You absolutely NEED liquid flux. Put some flux on, put some solder on the tip of the iron, swipe the iron on the side of the track joint, and presto, you are done. All there is to it. No melting ties, no long wait for the rail to heat up, no heat tempered track. I was skeptical at first that it would not be a "cold" solder joint, but they are holding just fine. This technique wont work without the flux.

 Pilot,

Could we agree that YOU absolutely need liquid flux to keep from melting ties?  

I've found no need for it and my ties don't melt.  I only use liquid electronics flux when I am unsoldering some stubborn compoents, especially on circuit boards. 

Heat rating and quality of the iron, (being too small or too big), condition of the tip and skill contribute to melting ties.  

regards,

Joe

 

 

[Anonymous]

When I first started soldering track, I did it wrong. I was heating the track section up so hot that it melted ties. Someone showed me how to solder track correctly. You absolutely NEED liquid flux. Put some flux on, put some solder on the tip of the iron, swipe the iron on the side of the track joint, and presto, you are done. All there is to it. No melting ties, no long wait for the rail to heat up, no heat tempered track. I was skeptical at first that it would not be a "cold" solder joint, but they are holding just fine. This technique wont work without the flux.

[reklein]

Another important part of soldering is to have things clean and bright. I never attempt to solder anything without first using a little fine sand paper or a wirre brush to brighten the metal before soldering.

[joe-daddy]

 After a few years away from model railroading, I have decided to actually set a layout up. I am still in the planning stage, but and getting prepped to start benchwork constuction and track laying. My question for now, is how important is soldering, how do you do it and what do you need. I assume a soldering iron, but do not know much about it.

Thanks,

 Nagrom

 

Nagrom, soldering skills are IMHO, essential to being a successful model railroader.  Certainly one could build a model railroad without soldering, but it is a kin to going swimmng without knowing how to swim.  You'll be forced to stay in the shallow end of the pool.

I'd like to clarify the issue of when and what kind of flux to use.

If you are soldering for strength and are not bonding items with insulation, acid core is the best choice.  When you are soldering to primarily facilitate electrical connections, where insulation of any kind is involved, use Rosin core.  

Every few months one of the magazines like Model Railroader has agood article on how to solder.

Good luck,

Joe 

[Nagrom1]

 Thanks guys. I know of the whole search thing, but I find it so hard to get anywhere with it.Thanks again,

  Nagrom

[tomikawaTT]

 After a few years away from model railroading, I have decided to actually set a layout up. I am still in the planning stage, but and getting prepped to start benchwork constuction and track laying. My question for now, is how important is soldering, how do you do it and what do you need. I assume a soldering iron, but do not know much about it.

Thanks,

 Nagrom

  Welcome to the forums.

Just on a humbug, I entered "soldering" in the search block at the bottom of the page.  The search returned 223 pages of earlier posts on the subject!  I doubt that any subject other than DCC has been worked over as much as this one.

For wiring and electronic soldering I use a 20 watt iron with a needle point tip.  For soldering filed pieces of rail into hand-assembled specialwork I fall back on a 325 watt Weller gun with a chisel tip.  I use 60/40 electronic solder, available at any electronic supply house and most hardware and hobby shops.  63/37 is actually better, but rare.  50/50 (plumbing solder) melts at a higher temperature, useful for sequential assembly if you ever start scratch building in brass.  Avoid the so-called "lead-free" solders - they may be politically correct, but they don't perform well in use.  (Don't breathe soldering fumes and wash up after using solder, and you shouldn't run into any health concerns.)

For wiring and rail soldering I use rosin-core solder.  Acid core requires much more careful cleanup and can lead to corrosion problems, so I recommend avoiding it.  I also pre-flux my joints with Burnley non-corrosive soldering paste, one of the many rosin-based soldering fluxes (paste and liquid) available.  This may be a 'belt and suspenders' approach, but I have never had a solder joint fail in service.

As for the joint itself, clean metal and total immobility (until the solder sets and cools) are the way to top-quality results.

One last item.  A good solder joint looks smooth.  If your joint has a crackle finish (known as a 'cold' joint,) it needs to be reheated and held immobile.  'Cold' solder joints WILL fail, sooner or later.

Chuck (modeling Central Japan in September, 1964 - soldering gun in hand)

[Vail and Southwestern RR]

You will want to be able to solder.  All you need is a soldering iron and solder.  I think a pencil type iron of 35 Watts or so is plenty for most things.  Weller is a good brand, and not too expensive.  Rosin core, relatively small solder can be had a Radio Shack.  You'll need something to clean the tip, often a little sponge that you can wet comes with the iron, you can also use o roll of paper towels.  For a good look at some methods you can look at this:

http://www.handlaidtrack.com/documents.php

Go down to how to solder trackwork.  They use acid flux, which you won't need, or want for most, if not all of what you do, but the principles are the same.  The trick is that you heat the things you are soldering to, not the solder.  Then touch the solder to the joint, and it will flow right in.  You'll need a little practice, but it will come pretty quickly.

 

[Nagrom1]

 After a few years away from model railroading, I have decided to actually set a layout up. I am still in the planning stage, but and getting prepped to start benchwork constuction and track laying. My question for now, is how important is soldering, how do you do it and what do you need. I assume a soldering iron, but do not know much about it.

Thanks,

 Nagrom