Help with open grid benchwork

[jwar]

Another thing you might consider is attaching all risers, braces, legs, x brace so that it can be adjusted, changed, tweked from under the layout. in other words not one hidden screw you cant get to from under the layout. No matter how good somthing is planed, there will be an unforseen thing to change. Of course the roadbed is screwed down from the top. Note the double span 1x3 as built in modular forms so that I may take theis around the room layout down some day. Those 1 1/2x 1/12 drill blocks really work great for lmoving things if needed, extra work but to me worth it. I also miter a 2x4 in all 90 degree corners the strenghten it up. I used 2x3 for legs. just my 2 cents

[Jake1210]

Thanks for the help guys, and I am happy now that I made the switch. Looking at the woodland scenics site, it is about $10 for a 2' long, 2" tall foam riser, where as, if I were to go out and buy an 8' 2x4 from home depot for 2.99 I could have 20 feet of 2" tall support. (I cant even fit in a straight run that big!!!) Where as it would cost about $100 for that many foam risers. "I just saved a bunch on layout construction by switching to Sievers!"

[pcarrell]

I've used 1/4" luan laminated to 1/4" foam on 12" centers for years with absolutely no issues at all.  I do have a climate controlled area and I don't crawl on my benchwork.  I also model in N scale and all of my scenery is lightweight.  To give you an idea of how it holds up, this is a section of the staging area from my last layout that was up and in use for 3 years.  As you can see, even though I have it leaning against the garage wall, there's no warpage at all.

http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j319/pcarrell/N%20Scale%20Trains/Salvage/Picture030.jpg

http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j319/pcarrell/N%20Scale%20Trains/Salvage/Picture026.jpg

I think many people over engineer their benchwork.  It's very important to have solid, stable benchwork, but it doesn't need to be able to withstand a tornado or something.  The exception would be if you need to climb on it for some reason, but not many of us do that really.

If you were to spread out your centers, then you'd have to use thicker wood. 

[selector]

If using 1/2" plywood for subroadbed, I would feel secure about risers spaced as far apart as 18".  Five-eights would be good to near 22", with three-quarter inch good to 26".

If you want to conserve costs, and can build 12"-18" spans without incurring more costs for more risers to support it, use 3/8-1/2".  Some guys won't even think about using anything less than 3/4" ply for roadbed, but I feel that it is unnecessary.  Supported luan would be fine, just more labour intensive to support it to keep deflection under gravity to a minimum.

The thing to remember is transitions into grades; that is where luan or masonite or 1/4" MDF will do a good job for you.  Fasten the lowest portion flush with the grade, and then allow the material to curve upward naturally to meet your intended grade.  Fashion supports below that vertical curve, and you will enjoy smooth running.  You could switch to 1/2" or even 5/8" plywood for the planar subroadbed.

[fwright]

In my experience, 1/4" plywood is too thin and flexible on it's own.  If laminated to 1"+ of foam, it has sufficient rigidity.

I have successfully used 1/2" plywood with risers spaced as far as 18" apart with no problems.  Watch the spacing of risers on turnback curves.  It is easy for the risers to get spread further than intended on large curves due to the plywood not crossing the grid at right angles.

If you are going to be cutting your own plywood, why not cut your own grid (or even better, L girder, which requires less accuracy on the cuts) pieces as well.

just my thoughts and experiences, yours may differ

Fred W

[Jake1210]

Hello. As some of you recall from my last thread, I had originally selected Woodland Scenics Mod-U-Rail modules to build my layout with. But after a bit of thinking I have dumped that Idea (though I am still getting an originally planned module for Christmas, though only for scenery supplies) for Sievers Open Grid Modules. (Link) And I have a question about risers, which, along with plywood subroadbed, I will be purchasing/cutting on my own. I have two questions, One, how often should I place the risers? I'd imagine once every foot should be good, with the appropriate thickness of plywood. Which leads me to my second question, how thick should the plywood be? I'd think 1/4 to 1/2 would be more than enough. All your help, has been, and will always be appreciated!