Modeling WATER

[Anonymous]

This may have been asked before, What is the best product to model water other than WS "realistic Water".... I have a 2' x 4' river and I would like to put an inch of water in it?

[Anonymous]

The reason I ask is figure $14.00 a bottle for woodland senics....

[Javern]

ENVIROTEX or MATTE medium which can be found in hobby stores. You could use real water and recirculating pump

[Anonymous]

CSX:

You can likely economize by pouring to a depth of less than an inch. Such a depth would mean you are making several applications of color and 'water' which is likely unnecessary.

Unless you are out doors I DO NOT recommend you use actual water. Layouts are made from materials which absorb water in various amounts leading to: mold, rot, rust and electrical problems. Use one of the alternatives.

Randy

[Anonymous]

What is envirotex ???? By the way the depth will be more like 1/2" I got carried away.
I have a lot of rocks and pretty steep banks so I want it to look full not in the middle of a drought!

[Anonymous]

Envioro-tex is a 2 part epoxy, it has been used on model railroads for years, for depth have you painted the bottom a little darker in the middle and ligther on the banks,

[Anonymous]

My hobby shop does not carry envirotex. Is there a place to order it?

Yes I painted the base to show depth.

[Anonymous]

Try your local hardware stores, or art supply stores. Normally it is in the paint and finish areas, or with woodworking epoxy and finishes.

http://www.***-blick.com/items/029/18/02918-1006-3ww.jpg

It is really easy to work with... but beware, it sets up level, absolutely level, so if you want to have a "waterfall" let it begin to set, then pour "top down" in small batches. It takes a while to set, and it is EPOXY, so it will destroy most tools, etc. if they are coated. I use a thick tuperware bowl and cheap metal spoons (don't clean the tuperware, let it harden then "pop" it out when it sets, BE SURE THE BOWL HAS A ROUNDED BOTTOM, it is easier to pop out.)

The spoons will be useless after afew sessions, and each session can require up to 24 hours to set completely. The best part is when it hardens, it self de-gasses (no bubbles) and is clear to the bottom. (be sure the bottom structure is worth looking at.) If you want to "cloud" the water, then during your last few pours, sprinkle a little ground foam of brown or green and let it settle in a layered effect. It takes very little ground foam during the pours, and it is not overly expensive so you may want to practice off the board to get the effect you want with an identical bottom structure.

Depth is no problem. The instructions indicate that you shouldn't pour more than 1/4 to 1/2 inch per layer. I have had sucess at greater depths per pour, but be very carefull not to get overzealous as it does SELF LEVEL. I cannot say this enough, becuse it will go places when solvent, just like water. Pinholes, slightly unlevel areas, and overly pourous banks will allow it to crawl or leak. Also, it is a chemical epoxy so it is exothermic. Very little fumes, but a good deal of heat can be created, so plaster is a better form to pour into. (Follow the manufacturers recommendation for temperature to the letter. If it is cold, when you pour, it will be tacky forever... To de-gass faster, fog the pour with your breath a couple of times (try to stay out of the fumes, as I said they are not the fumes you expect, but it is chemically melting plastic, so it can't be good for your health.))

Here's an okay link:
http://www.ztrains.com/pages/workshop/water_part1/water_part1.html

I offer this as personal experience, it has been a beautifull addition to my layouts, and most people are honestly afraid to touch my "wet" areas. They believe it to be actual water, or something that is still drying.

(Last hint... once it is all hardened and no longer tacky, THEN go back and add your banks back down to the water line. The surface tension will have crawled up 1/16th to 1/4 of an inch, so you need to fini***he bank back down to get rid of the glossy crawl area.)

[Anonymous]

MDE:

Thanks for the post, one of the mose comprehensive I have read in this, or any other, forum. Goes directly in to my "reference file"

Randy

[jhugart]

I'd like to add my question to this, since I have a stream bed with a definiteslope to it. Is the simple solution to alter the level of my (small) layout so the self-leveling works? Or is there a way to pour it to get the effect of levels of water cascading down joints in rock?

[Anonymous]

I have had some practice with the "downhill" water effect. My suggestion...

You have three options...
1. Build Natural looking "steps" that will actually culminate in "Chain of Rocks" head dams. Then pour the top (upper) step each time, letting the "water" cascade each time in thin layers. Pouring less on your last pours, and waiting longer to let it set faster after you pour. The trick is that the "steps" must be realistic in where the water "bends" to the next level. If it is between steps, it will look like there is a sudden slow flow coming down (NOT REALISTIC)

2. Pour the steps individually, then slowly start the last pour at the top step (which should be on the verge of "falling") pour just enough to "level out" right down the middle, allowing the envirotex to cascade over each step.

3.. Make it all level, like an older river, less like a stream, with some obstructions like rocks, only near the banks...

When mixed, this stuff is like molasses. So it can fool you on how much it will "feather" out as it settles. It really becomes art. Don't panic, you can always add another thin layer with a brush... after all, that is really what it was designed for. It is a wood finish first and formost, and can be applied in a VERY thin layer occasionally to "clean up" the look.

(Side note... Weather the heck out of old ties, rail, boats, cars, or whatever unique trash you want, then put that in the bottom structure for conversation. And I mean muddy up the weathering... this is underwater trash, so it won't be colorfull.)

[cacole]

I've used a small can of clear poly-urethane for standing water in a flooded quarry. The trick here is to apply only small amounts and let it dry between applications until you get it to the desired thickness. During club open houses where we set up outdoor modular layouts, we have had the sun melt water made with the Woodland Scenics Realistic Water and similar products.