My asphalt road ends at the bottom of the hill and it's dirt from there, over the track and out the other side (opposite the truck in the photo). The 'grass' has to be removed from that area.
I don't have a similar prototype anywhere near me, that I know of, to take a look at. I want mine to have old boards in the middle of the track but I'm not sure what to do with the ties on the outside of the tracks. Where boards placed there also? Is it always ballasted under the boards? Or was dirt simply piled up on the outer sides of the tracks?
Time frame.... oh... 1950 or so.
Jarrell
JaRRell, the ties would have to be there for the same reasons they would be everywhere else. Since their surfaces lie well below rail surface level, you can add 10"X5" timbers directly over the ties and bolt them in place with recessed bolts. I suppose some crossings are concrete or paved, and I am not sure how they would be done since you wouldn't want to entomb wooden ties in concrete. Also, as you are no doubt aware, some crossings have plate metal which must be fixed to some support below and above the tie plates/ties for strength.
Harold's site (pacificcoastairliner I think it is) has a how I did it on his dirt road, IIR.
You might like this idea also.
http://www.pacificcoastairlinerr.com/whats_new/index.html
Scroll down to "We build a Dirt Horse Road"
Rich.
If you ever fall over in public, pick yourself up and say “sorry it’s been a while since I inhabited a body.” And just walk away.
Ok, thanks for the help! Earlier I was trying to remember the last time I saw planks used in this way, but couldn't recall. As you can see from the picture my crossing is on a 22 r. curve so I guess I'll have to cut my planks with a slight curve. BUT, if they're only 10 scale feet in length, maybe not. Time to get out the ho scale ruler.
jacon, for what its worth ---- on the former MoPac now UP here in central Texas, on farm/ranch driveway crossings, often just a timber on each side of each rail with balast filling the area between the inside timbers and balast graded up on the outside of the outside timbers.
John T
Something like this?
You can read how i built it here. Just scroll half-way down the page. Hope this helps.
Thanks for the link Rich. I've visited that site in the past but had forgotten it's name. I also like the easy 'tar paper' they show.
richg1998 wrote: You might like this idea also.http://www.pacificcoastairlinerr.com/whats_new/index.htmlScroll down to "We build a Dirt Horse Road"Rich.
Thanks for the information, John. I'm beginning to see that these crossing were done in several different ways.
jawnt wrote: jacon, for what its worth ---- on the former MoPac now UP here in central Texas, on farm/ranch driveway crossings, often just a timber on each side of each rail with balast filling the area between the inside timbers and balast graded up on the outside of the outside timbers.John T
Yep, that's what I had in mind. Thanks for the detailed explanation complete with wood sizes. Tell me, what type pins did you use to hold the wood in place and how did you apply them? I don't think you put them through the wood, or did you?
Thanks for the help!
ezielinski wrote: Something like this?You can read how i built it here. Just scroll half-way down the page. Hope this helps.
Marlon
See pictures of the Clinton-Golden Valley RR
jacon12 wrote: Yep, that's what I had in mind. Thanks for the detailed explanation complete with wood sizes. Tell me, what type pins did you use to hold the wood in place and how did you apply them? I don't think you put them through the wood, or did you?Thanks for the help!Jarrell
No. I used straight sewing pins and placed them tightly against, not through, each piece of strip wood until the CA set. If you have any other questions, feel free to ask.
One assumption I made, is that you are using code 100 rail. That is what I used. If not, you will have to go to the next size smaller wood strips to provide adequate clearance above the rails.
Jarrell,
Even though this area is mostly paved, the wood planking can be done with dirt or gravel roads.
Just remember to use a stripwood that is just slightly lower than the railhead. Chamfer the end of the planks in case you have a low coupler trip pin. This area was hand laid and small ME spikes w/ head clipped off were used to glue and anchor them in place. Curved planks can be a bit of a pain. Sometimes on flextrack, it is nec. to carve out the edges of the plank as not to sit up on tie plate/ spike detail, especially on the outer planks that are run up againt the rail.
Modeling B&O- Chessie Bob K. www.ssmrc.org
This is a 3 track crossing that I had under construction:
I built the crossing from Campbell wood RR ties. For the inside, I keep the width to between the flexitrack tie plates to ensure enough clearance for rolling stock wheels, and taper the ends so coupler trip pins, track cleaners and other hanging down stuff will not catch on them. For the outside, I push the tie against the outside of the rail and glue. I add width to the edge of the ties. I just glue with yellow carpenters glue, and sand smooth. Paint is a dilute Floquil Roof Brown
George In Midcoast Maine, 'bout halfway up the Rockland branch
When modeling country roads (dirt) I like to extend my dirt roads thru the grade crossing:
Have Fun.... Bob.
ezielinski wrote:Something like this?You can read how i built it here. Just scroll half-way down the page. Hope this helps.
It looks really great but I can't help but wondering why the track isn't painted.
Modeling the N&W freelanced at the height of their steam era in HO.
Daniel G.
Hi Jarrell: Here is just one possible method of making a plank crossing on curved tracks. The "planks" are the thin plywood skin I salvaged from an old wood desk. They are about 1/8" thick. I butted them against the outside rail, not quite even with the rail. On the inside, they are low enough, for "air hose" clearance. I used a sharp pencil to simulate bolts.
The prototype simply lays down track as normal, ties ballast etc. and either planks over the ties with wood, or lays down strips of rubber at the flangways and asphalts or concretes over the whole mess. Yes, the wood ties remain under the asphalt or concrete and the rubber compresses as the train rolls over. More traveled roads may be a bit different, but that is the basic principle of the crossing.
The Dixie D Short Line "Lux Lucet In Tenebris Nihil Igitur Mors Est Ad Nos 2001"
Wow, I had forgotten about this thread. Thanks to all for your suggestions and tips on how to do the crossing. I was at a show sometime in early Sept and came across a set of crossing 'planks' and I've since laid them down..
They look pretty good but not as busted up and rustic as I had imagined the crossing to be. Next time I'll try making my own from the tips in this thread.