Painters masking tape works fine too. It's been around for a while. You're not dreaming. Or are you still dreaming now?
I would recommend latex caulk instead of the tenacious expensive stuff for gluing track. The caulk works extremely well and is peal-able.
Karl
The mind is like a parachute. It works better when it's open. www.stremy.net
Medina1128 wrote:I would rethink using Liquid Nails for gluing down track. With acrylic latex caulk, you can remove the track with a putty knife. I've NEVER been able to remove track that has been glued with Liquid Nails without destroying the track....
I made that mistake once. Then I decided to rip everything apart and re-do the track plan. What a PITA!
Dan Stokes
My other car is a tunnel motor
Marlon
See pictures of the Clinton-Golden Valley RR
Good Point on the turnout actuator rod.
Chuck
Hmmm... That's an interesting idea; I hadn't heard that one before. I suppose it would work, but if you were careful with spreading the Liquid Nails, and didn't apply it in the points areas, it shouldn't be a problem.
The only thing I would caution for the electrical tape method is if you are using an under-table switch mechanism that penetrates up through the roadbed (e.g. a Tortoise), then you'd have to cut a hole in the tape for the actuating rod, which might allow some wayward glue to seep in.
Hey all,
I am a long time Model Railroader, but I have always spiked my track to the cork/plywood. On this layout, I am using the Liquid Nails for Projects insted.
I seem to recall seeing somewhere that you should place electrical tape over the underside of the turnouts in the point area to prevent glue from messing up the operation of said points.
Am I correct in thinking this or did I just dream it? Any other tips?
Thanks