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Peco turnout motor (PL10) troubleshooting for N scale
Peco turnout motor (PL10) troubleshooting for N scale
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Anonymous
Member since
April 2003
305,205 posts
Peco turnout motor (PL10) troubleshooting for N scale
Posted by
Anonymous
on Friday, December 26, 2003 9:56 PM
[:)]I've got a dozen or so of these attached to N scale Insulfrog turnouts. The motors worked fine in the test bench, but now that they're attached to the underside of the turnouts they just don't seem to have the umph to move the points...anyone else have this experience? How'd ya fix it?!?
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snowey
Member since
February 2001
From: US
506 posts
Posted by
snowey
on Saturday, December 27, 2003 3:32 AM
I had the same exact problem, then, upon closer examination, i found that the wires had come loose from where they were soldered to the lugs. Maybe that's what's wrong. O ther than that, I don't know what to suggest. I'm sure someone else on here can help you out, though. I'm sure that Andy Sperandeo knows. Andy, you reading this?
"I have a message...Lt. Col....Henry Blakes plane...was shot down...over the Sea Of Japan...it spun in...there were no survivors".
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Anonymous
Member since
April 2003
305,205 posts
Posted by
Anonymous
on Saturday, December 27, 2003 6:46 AM
Thanks, Snowey. I'll check to make sure the feeder wires haven't come loose. Intuitively, though, the problem strikes me as more mechanical than electrical. The spring that holds the points seems to have too much tension for the strength of the electromagnet. I re-read the info sheet included with the Peco turnout and motor, and made sure to cut off the extra mounting lug (I thought that maybe the torque of having the turnout "racked" onto the motor's flanges was causing the problem. This one's really bugging me...
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Anonymous
Member since
April 2003
305,205 posts
Posted by
Anonymous
on Sunday, December 28, 2003 10:13 AM
I could never get Pecos mounted underneath the layout to throw the switches all the way. I tried a capacitor unit, which boosts power somewhat, but it was still not 100% reliable. Of course, I was thowing from below 1/2 each of homosote and plywood. I have seen them work when attached directly to the track, like they were designed.
I have no trouble with surface mounted Peco switch machines, and do so wherever possible, covering them with scenery of some type. All of those are still clicking after 13 years of use. I have replace all yard swithes, etc. with hand throws, usually caboose industries ground throws.
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BR60103
Member since
January 2001
From: Guelph, Ont.
1,476 posts
Posted by
BR60103
on Saturday, January 3, 2004 11:13 PM
If you have mounted the machines directly under the turnout, you may need to slacken off the spring that holds the points over. There is a little doohickey just beyond the points in the middle of the rails held down by a metal clip (or clips). If you CAREFULLY open the clip you should be able to slide this doohickey just a tiny bit down and get less spring pressure. Pu***he clip in place again.
(I'm writing from memory and assuming that the N gauge turnout is the same as the HO.)
--David
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Pennsy58
Member since
August 2003
From: Conemaugh Division
389 posts
Posted by
Pennsy58
on Sunday, January 4, 2004 4:14 PM
The spring adjustment mentioned worked for me in the past. They do not seem to be produced with springs that have the same tension all the time. Doohickey is my term for the hickeydoo thing too....
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Anonymous
Member since
April 2003
305,205 posts
Posted by
Anonymous
on Sunday, January 4, 2004 4:33 PM
Scrap the PECO Switch Machine and the Spring on the turnout that holds the points and use a Circuitron- Tortoise Slow Motion Machine!
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der5997
Member since
September 2002
From: Nova Scotia, Northumberland Shore
2,479 posts
Posted by
der5997
on Sunday, January 4, 2004 6:56 PM
No need to scrap the perfectly fine Peco motor. the problem may be in the current supply to the motor. Are you using a capacitor discharge unit in your circuit? If not, have a try. All my Peco machines work like a charm with the cd unit, even if they burr and stutter on ordinary 15 volt AC. Klambach's Electronic projects for model railroaders 1 or 2 has the cuircuits. Easy to build, and a great help.
"There are always alternatives, Captain" - Spock.
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Anonymous
Member since
April 2003
305,205 posts
Posted by
Anonymous
on Monday, January 5, 2004 8:50 AM
I'd agree with the last response - there's nothing wrong with the Peco switch machines - they're considerably cheaper than the Tortoise versions! It is important to have a decent power supply to them - I had endless trouble with the same units in HO until I changed my transformer/controller unit for one with a little more power!
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der5997
Member since
September 2002
From: Nova Scotia, Northumberland Shore
2,479 posts
Posted by
der5997
on Wednesday, January 7, 2004 8:45 PM
The Tortoise is great for a slow motion effect as the point rails move. Also the contact is good, so I've been told since there is a constant pressure from the motor. My powered Peco turnouts are where I can't get at them to change them by hand as I follow my trains around. (That's mainly passing sidings in tunnels[:O]) So, I don't need the slow motion effect. The Capacitor discharge unit ensures a snappy contact, and the built in spring in the Peco turnout keeps the contact firm. I also like the small knob on the end of the trowbar that makes manual operation easy, while not being obtrusive visually.
"There are always alternatives, Captain" - Spock.
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