I've read before that some modelers like to use alcohol, undiluted, as a prewetting agent on ballast instead of wet water. I've been having a heck of a time with ballast floating up onto the tie tops when using wet water applied with an eye dropper, so I'm game for anything that might work better. My concern is will alcohol harm already sceniked areas beside the track that it might leach into and since I glue my track down to the cork roadbed and the roadbed to the extruded foam base, will the alcohol affect this glue/foam base?
I know that no matter what is used some of the ballast is going to go astray, but maybe I can at least cut the amount in half.
JaRRell
It didn't hurt grass here, but it did wick glue outside where the ballast ended, which made dirt areas turn a little darker. In most cases I did a little touch-up painting and sprinkled some more dirt to lighten it back up.
I also made sure that all the stray ballast that couldn't be swept back into the embankment was at least two inches away, so the wicked glue wouldn't make it permanent. I stayed several tie bays away from turnout points too.
About 95% of the area affected by the spreading glue dried such that you couldn't tell it from any other area, no real effect.
Generally it took two drops (both alcohol and glue) per tie bay between the rails, and sort of 1.5 drops per tie bay outside the rails, depending on how wide the embankment was there. No problems with floating ballast, I bet I didn't have to pry loose more than 5 grains from the tie tops, in 50 feet of track.
Ok, I see from your answers that I should at least use a 50/50 mix of alcohol and water. That's gotta be where my floating problem is coming from, even with a few drops of detergent the 'wet' water still made a mess no matter how careful I was. I see that neither of you suggested misting the wetting agent on instead of carefully dropping it on. I think I have an old glue bottle so I'll give it a try... first with a 50/50 mix.
Crandell, with my current method I'm getting at least five grains of ballast PER tie! I've almost resigned myself to having an unballasted track! Oh... I'm using WS medium gray, or gray blend.. I forget which.
Thanks for the suggestions!
Marlon
See pictures of the Clinton-Golden Valley RR
JaRRell, I thought we were talking about displacement of the ballast up and onto the ties in a serious order of magnitude. Five grains is nothing...really. Joe Fugate would tell you to keep doing what you are doing and then take a plastic scraper and lightly scrape those few grains off the ties once everything is dry. You have to do that to the flange path anyway, and to the inner surface of the rail web.
Don't forget to vacuum afterwards.
-Crandell
I'd be real happy if all I was getting was 5 grains per tie. Those hair spray bottles work good. I've got some pump eyeglass cleaner bottles that have a super fine spray. I use those bottles from the ink cartridge refill kits. The ones with the long metal "needles" on the end. You get real good control with them.
I found straight alcohol likes to strip the paint off my rails and ties. Go with the 50/50 mix.
I use a couple of drops of dish detergent in about a cup of water as my wetting agent. I put it on with an eyedropper, and yes, I get a few grains per tie floating around. After the glue sets, I take a small screwdriver and chip them off. Then I vacuum the track to pick up all manner of loose junk, and I'm done.
I've just become accustomed to a few loose, misplaced grains. It's part of ballasting.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
Bear "It's all about having fun."
LOl... read that again.. that's 5 grains on each and every tie. Heck I don't know, maybe mines not so bad as I think. The ties look kinda like they have small pox..
selector wrote: JaRRell, I thought we were talking about displacement of the ballast up and onto the ties in a serious order of magnitude. Five grains is nothing...really. Joe Fugate would tell you to keep doing what you are doing and then take a plastic scraper and lightly scrape those few grains off the ties once everything is dry. You have to do that to the flange path anyway, and to the inner surface of the rail web.Don't forget to vacuum afterwards. -Crandell
jacon12 wrote: LOl... read that again.. that's 5 grains on each and every tie... JaRRell
LOl... read that again.. that's 5 grains on each and every tie...
Yes, I got that. But....(shrugs)....that's what happens anyway. Just spend four minutes with your wooden stirrer or whatever and give each tie top a light scrub....it's what I do.
The addition of the alcohol has helped PLUS being more careful about how I drop the solution onto the ballast.
I quit taking a big swig of it between applications to the ballast and that's helped my aim a great deal.
Jarrell
selector wrote: jacon12 wrote: LOl... read that again.. that's 5 grains on each and every tie... JaRRellYes, I got that. But....(shrugs)....that's what happens anyway. Just spend four minutes with your wooden stirrer or whatever and give each tie top a light scrub....it's what I do.