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Air Brush- how to get soft edges for weathering?

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  • Member since
    September 2002
  • 7,486 posts
Posted by ndbprr on Friday, December 26, 2003 7:54 AM
I use a Paasche and most of the time I just ma***he air full on and then pull back on the color until I get the flow I want. Like anything else the more I use it the better I get and the longer between paint sessions the worse I get. I generally shoot some paint at a pirce of corrugated or the garage door which is (was) white. The guy who buys my house will never figure out what was going on in that area[8D].
  • Member since
    April 2003
  • 305,205 posts
Posted by Anonymous on Friday, December 26, 2003 7:18 AM
Try turning down the psi on your compressor (if you are using one). Experiment with thinning the paint down further than the 1/3: 2/3 ratio. I would start with the base ratio of thinned paint, and add thinner a drop or two at a time (directly into the color cup). double action airbrushes are more expensive, and harder to maintain, but the results are much better. With the right amount of practice, amazing results can be achieved. When I am trying for a decent amount of road grime (or dust/ mud) I position whatever I am painting at about a 45 degree angle from my airbrush (or vice versa) rolling stock (and armor...I also do much tanky stuff) flip the model upside down, hold at 45 degrees and spray. This way, the majority of paint collects on the bottom of the model, and you get an overspray on the sides. HTH[tup]
  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: US
  • 736 posts
Posted by tomwatkins on Thursday, December 25, 2003 4:43 PM
I get good results with a single action Binks "Wren" airbrush. I use a very thin mixture and lower the pressure. You have to work slowly and build the effect up very gradually.
Tom Watkins
  • Member since
    April 2003
  • 305,205 posts
Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, December 25, 2003 12:33 AM

Steam:

Try using a thinner color mixture than you usually do and keep the brush a bit farther from the target. Don't forget to begin and end the spraying off the model and use several light passes. Spraying with the target tilted at an acute angle may also help. I use an 'el Cheapo' single action air brush and have no trouble creating a feathered slightly irregular edge.

Gool Luck

Randy
  • Member since
    April 2003
  • 305,205 posts
Posted by Anonymous on Wednesday, December 24, 2003 11:21 AM
Thanks ndbprr! So you recommend a double action brush? I've heard they are much tougher to use then a single action... what is your exeprience? Do you have one you would recommend? (in particular one that the color cup or bottle does't fall off or leak so easily, which is my main gripe with the Badger 350, though otherwise a good air brush)
  • Member since
    September 2002
  • 7,486 posts
Posted by ndbprr on Wednesday, December 24, 2003 11:10 AM
yes a double action will allow you to get softer edges HOWEVER!, When I weather there are a couple of rules of thumb:
1. Light car weather with darker colors like grays
2. Dark car weather lighter like dirt or dust

I mix a thin color with a lot of solvent and use the smallest tip possible. That allows me to build the color easier then when it is full strength. With a double action you can vaporize most of the solvent before it reaches the car by using excess air. I'd practice on a piece of cardboard or wood before doing a car just to get the skills up to snuff first.
  • Member since
    April 2003
  • 305,205 posts
Air Brush- how to get soft edges for weathering?
Posted by Anonymous on Wednesday, December 24, 2003 11:05 AM
Hi folks- what is the best way to get soft edges with an air brush such as needed when weathering structures? Mine tend to be too "hard". Am I holding the air bru***o close? Smaller or bigger tip size? Will a double action air brush allow me to get softer edges easier? I am using a Badger 350 single action, usually with Floquil solvent based paints. Thanks!

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