My woodland scenes river now has a layer of dust on it
If i try to wipe the dust it just scratches the surface
Is there any way to fix this problem ?
TerryinTexas
See my Web Site Here
http://conewriversubdivision.yolasite.com/
Try using a damp cloth and blotting the dust. Dunno if that will work, just a guess that it might though.
Dave Loman
My site: The Rusty Spike
"It's a penny for your thoughts, but you have to put your 2 cents in.... hey, someone's making a penny!"
claymore1977 wrote: Try using a damp cloth and blotting the dust. Dunno if that will work, just a guess that it might though.
Nope Tried that! Didn't work
The problem is Woodland Scenes Water never fully hardens like glass
If i'd known that i'd have used something else
I'm afraid to use any thing more than water ie Windex for fear of
smearing the surface
Another guess: Low velocity pressurized air? Or perhaps a hair dryer on low (or no) heat?
When wiping, I understand it scratches the surface, but does the dust come up? If so, can you use a little heat from a hot air gun to smooth the scratches out?
I haven't used this stuff, but can you just pour on another very thin layer?
Or, better yet, can you pour on a thin layer of epoxy which will give you a nice hard surface? Does anyone know if this would work?
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
MisterBeasley wrote: I haven't used this stuff, but can you just pour on another very thin layer?Or, better yet, can you pour on a thin layer of epoxy which will give you a nice hard surface? Does anyone know if this would work?
poring another layer is my last resort
I don't know about the Epoxy
Maybe someone else here does
Vacuum with a brush attachment. Be quick and gentle.
Spray water onto what's left behind. Blot vertically with dampened facecloth after a few short seconds. Wipe with a damp chamois.
Count of a gloss medium resurfacing every fourth or fifth cleaning...as needed.
claymore1977 wrote: Another guess: Low velocity pressurized air? Or perhaps a hair dryer on low (or no) heat?When wiping, I understand it scratches the surface, but does the dust come up? If so, can you use a little heat from a hot air gun to smooth the scratches out?
No when i wipe it very little dust comes up it just smears
Wish i had a hair dryer !
selector wrote: Vacuum with a brush attachment. Be quick and gentle.Spray water onto what's left behind. Blot vertically with dampened facecloth after a few short seconds. Wipe with a damp chamois.Count of a gloss medium resurfacing every fourth or fifth cleaning...as needed.
I'll try that Selector
Thanks
Terry,
I never have any luck with any of the WS products for water. The Realistic water has done the same for me. The semi hard surface even poured in the layers as directed is just too soft, it actually doesn't even stay flat. Irregularities in the finish appear over time.
I would suggest repouring with a thin layer of Enviorotex. The 2 part resin is very durable and will also give a surface to add gloss medium to show ripples, waves or any turbulence if so desired. WS water effects or translucent acrylic caulk will also do for serious wave or turbulence (around bridge piers, rocks etc) for faster moving water.
Modeling B&O- Chessie Bob K. www.ssmrc.org
A six inch length of 3/8-inch tubing pressed into a hole in a round wooden plug that fits into the end of the vacuum cleaner hose is a very useful cleaning tool. If fearful of sucking up small parts or if trying to find small parts that have been droped on the floor, insert some pantyhose in the vac hose like you would for a plastic liner in a trash bin. The plug will hold it in place. This works great for cleaning small areas. A word of caution, the tubing increases the suction and restricts the air flow so the vac motor may overheat with prolonged use.
Geohan
To both of you last two gentlemen, I agree. A two part epoxy (see your hardware store) is simple and hard...very durable. The only tricky part is if you want ripples or waves. Takes some doing.
As for a narrow aperture implement to vacuum, most vacuums come with a crevice tool. That would do a very good job of getting up close to 90% of what is deposited. However, the plastic will leave marks if it makes contact with the surface, which it is sure to do. It would not leave marks with something harder, like Envirotex or a cheaper version that you can get at any hardware store. You want a clear epoxy that comes in a small box with two plastic bottles. One of them will be resin, and the other will be a hardener. I believe the resin is often a bit yellow, but it will dry to a nice shiny clear "water".
Just be sure to dam the edges of any little place where the pour could creep under or over things. Use masking tape pressed tightly and thoroughly with finger tips. Place three layers of newspaper under the area of the pour just in case. Ask me if I was thankful for remembering this the second time I poured water. Go ahead....ask me.
I used a two-part resin available at Michael's Arts and Crafts called Pour-On. I mixed river green acrylic paint directly into the wet mix and the resin set up hard as glass in 6-9 hours. I poured my rivers a few years back, and clean off dust with a damp towel every month or so.
Can i pour the Enviorotex or the Pour On overtop of the WS Realistic Water ?
I like the color of your river Perry
How do you keep that big lizzard from stirring up the mud ?
Absolutely. In fact, it would have made an excellent surface on which to pour something you don't want running out of tiny holes and cracks, so the surface you have down already is ideal.
But....you may want to consider "improving" your paint job so that your new surface looks more realistic. I say this not having any idea what it looks like at present, but if you have had doubts about its looks, now's the time to do the paint job all over again, and the current surface should take acrylics very nicely, thank-you. Once you have your river bottom nicely painted with the different hues and tones to suggest variations in depth and tubidity, do a couple of thin pours....keep them to the 1/16"-3/32" range if you can....thin is good, even if you have to do three or four pours.
If bubbles show up after or before the pours, don't forget light blowing through a soda straw. They'll magically disappear.
Marlon
See pictures of the Clinton-Golden Valley RR