Splined Roadbed

[CP5170]

I forgot to mention that another advantage of wood spline is that you can sand your elevation on the curves. I tried to do this with masonite but what a mess!

Ken

[BR60103]

I started (and finished) a thread on spline roadbed at another forum.
http://www.the-gauge.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=6583
I didn't use spacers because I needed it to be self-supporting; mine was 5/16" strips ripped from 1x4 pine.
There are also a lot of fuzzy photos.

[CP5170]

Like Mike, I have used masonite and pine. In both cases, I used 6 plys of 1/4" spline. I used cork roadbed over the spline. As Mike stated, the masonite does not take a spike or nail without drilling a starter hole. I prefer pine but am contemplating trying homasote spline as I could eliminate the cork roadbed but am not sure about attaching the switch machines.

I attached my switch machines to a small square of plywood which in turn is attached to the spline via two screws. It has worked out fine.

Hope this helps...Ken

[Anonymous]

Hello JMCDONNELL;
I've been using splined roadbed for most revisions & additions on my layout for the past few years. I really like the smooth flow and natural easements that one gets with this construction. I cut my own stuff on a table saw.
I've used two main types:
Masonite splines with pine spacers, and all-cedar splines and spacers.
I prefer the cedar, [ which I obtained at no cost ].
I usually use a yellow or white carpenters glue to asseble splinework.
Commercial grade hot glue ( with a commercial grade gun )is good too.

I generally use cork roadbed over the splinework. I put the flextrack down with track nails to hold it until the ballasting is done, when the nails are removed, the hole plugged, and painted over.
I have used Homasote over the splines in some spots. No fatening problems there of course.
Since the spline does not always present a pinning spot where the track nail-holes are, it is frequently necessary to drill new holes....also one does not pin to masonite, so you need to pin to the spacer blocks.

Your biggest challenge will be to avoid twisting and canting of the roadbed as you assemble it. I recommend a couple of short line levels used crossways across the roadbed as you are clamping.
Good luck.
Merry Christmas & regards,
Mike

[Anonymous]

Hi, I am just about ready to start my HO layout and want to use a splined roadbed.Double mainline approx 6"wide to allow for scenery. I want to use 2" lateral spacers between the 3/16" laminations.Tortise switch machines will be used for turnouts. Anyone with expierance using splined roadbed please advise pro or con.