The clouds look very good. All I ever used was rattle can flat white. Sometimes simple is better and just as realistic.
Larry
Hello Driline,
Most welcome. I'm typing from another computer as mine is currently being repaired, possible courtesy of a nearby lightning strike. I'll upload the photos through it when I get it back.
Before I started on my current layout, I had been disappointed that my plans to rebuild my attic space into a layout room were actually doable, however, too harsh on my budget. With modern building codes (mindful of potential hurricane winds) in Florida, it would have cost approximately $10,000+ to turn that space into an air conditioned, well lit, 12' x 20' room.
Seeing the photos of your layout made me smile and decide to "go for it" again. My current back room / office/ hobbyroom measures 10ft x 11ft. My primary concern is that while I want a double track mainline, it seems that the layout's 19" width may limit me to a single track mainline to get around the corners with 85ft passenger cars.
I'll post a thread soon with photos and ask for opinions
High Greens to you
DrilineAntonioFP45 My layout's design is based on Driline's. I saw his photos and was impressed at how he worked with the space he has. I especially liked the shot of his desk which is almost my same exact scenario! Thanks AntonioFP45 I didn't realize that. I'd like to see some pics of your layout.
AntonioFP45 My layout's design is based on Driline's. I saw his photos and was impressed at how he worked with the space he has. I especially liked the shot of his desk which is almost my same exact scenario!
My layout's design is based on Driline's. I saw his photos and was impressed at how he worked with the space he has. I especially liked the shot of his desk which is almost my same exact scenario!
Thanks AntonioFP45 I didn't realize that. I'd like to see some pics of your layout.
"I like my Pullman Standards & Budds in Stainless Steel flavors, thank you!"
saronaterryI use 1x2 frames covered with 2 layers of foam on shelf brackets. My turnouts are hand thrown so no need for any plywood. Hope some of this helps. Terry
I use 1x2 frames covered with 2 layers of foam on shelf brackets. My turnouts are hand thrown so no need for any plywood. Hope some of this helps.
Terry
Terry, what type of ground throw / switch stand do you use? How do you mount them on the foam board? Is it strong enough to hold properly?
I intend do to the same, but have no experience with foam board, yet. Have been working with the "old" cork roadbed on plywood-method...
Hi, Ulrich.
I use Caboose Industries ground throws mounted to cork roadbed with PL300 adhesive, the same stuff I use to glue the roadbed to the foam. Works great and you only need a dab.Yes, you can remove it if needed.Here's one in the lower right corner:
Sorry for the bad focus.
Terry in NW Wisconsin
Queenbogey715 is my Youtube channel
Terry,
Are you running a double-track mainline?
saronaterryHi, Ulrich. I use Caboose Industries ground throws mounted to cork roadbed with PL300 adhesive, the same stuff I use to glue the roadbed to the foam. Works great and you only need a dab.Yes, you can remove it if needed.Here's one in the lower right corner: Sorry for the bad focus. Terry
Antonio, only where the prototype had it, in this shot just south of and entering Spooner ,WI.
Hello everone.
I'm just finishing my train room and I was thinking I would start building the upper deck first so I didn't have any obstructions, because the lower deck will be 30" - 36" wide and set at approx 36" high . My upper deck will be 12" - 14" wide and set at approx 55" - 58" above finished floor. I suppose this will set the helix entrances and exits. Am I looking at this the wrong way.
thanks,
k4Pop
Jetrock 3/4 inch plywood will still sag. A frame of 1x2 is sufficient to keep things stiff, but in that case you don't need 3/4 inch plywood--maybe 1/2 inch, or 1 or 2 inches of foam with a cheap & easy 1x2 frame. The frame also serves the purpose of hiding wiring (well, along with the fascia) and adding a bit of stiffness--more than an extra 1/4" of plywood will do. That's what I do, anyhow--although I use 5/8" MDF and the layout is only a foot thick.
3/4 inch plywood will still sag. A frame of 1x2 is sufficient to keep things stiff, but in that case you don't need 3/4 inch plywood--maybe 1/2 inch, or 1 or 2 inches of foam with a cheap & easy 1x2 frame. The frame also serves the purpose of hiding wiring (well, along with the fascia) and adding a bit of stiffness--more than an extra 1/4" of plywood will do.
That's what I do, anyhow--although I use 5/8" MDF and the layout is only a foot thick.
If you think that 3/4" ply would sag, why would you consider MDF? MDF is extremely heavy, will sag under its oun weight and doesn't take screws well at all. A quality 3/4" plywood would have to have some substantial dead weight to cause sag (consider 8" bookshelves for instance) You won't find MDF used for this purpose.
Using a quality 1/2" ply, (birch, luan, or even doug fir BC sanded underlayment) with 1x2s glued and screwed staggered at ply joints would produce a fairly light, stong and flat deck. I would recommend scabbing the plywood joints with the scrap ply instead of any steel mending straps. Scabbed joints will help to eliminate some of the slight wave at those areas.
Modeling B&O- Chessie Bob K. www.ssmrc.org
I have gone with 1x8 1/2 ply on a 1x4 pine sides. Placed this box on twin slot shelf brackets. Set up is solid. If I did it again I would go with 3/4 ply over the 1/2 ply, just to make it a little easy on mpunting the swithc machines. Screws poke out the top of the 1/2 ply.
I did not use foam board, In Arizona this stuff (Foam) is hard to find. The 1x4 make a great place to screw in wire holders etc.
Eric G. Hallwww.GSMrr.net
AzBaja
goodmornin', my HO layout runs around the walls of the basement, into/through existing shelving & through existing cabinets: 314' to date. i use 3/4" straight, dressed cedar fencing in 8' lengths. most is cut to 2 3/4" width with buildings and other "activities" on the existing shelving and the corners (I do have a couple of double-wide passing tracks). i don't join the boards (length wise) as i use box-assembled bridges between the lengths/gaps. i make my own shelving supports* and have needed no more than 4 per board. cork roadbed atop the planks & track atop that. i run a 18ga wire buss along the underside of the boards and painted, steel tube (looks like water pipe) to conceal the buss line where the bridges run. where the layout climbs above eye-level, i run the buss line atop the board along the wall. buss is joined to the N/S track every 6-8'.
i use european automotive screw-connectors for wiring joints where soldering is inappropriate & track-side shacks/buildings to conceal these top-mounted buss connectors.
if you have a bow in the board, put the bow down (like a smile) and, after the ends are locked in, the center supports are added to make it level; easier to hold up than down.
3M heavy duty, doublesided tape works wonderfully to hold the supports in place while i nudge&level before sinking screws into the walls.
i built two curved, inclined bridges of dressed cedar "bending board": one 5' and one just under 7' (the latter is a walk-under - no stooping).
no scenery yet. still planning how to do the roundtable at one terminus.
the 32" sloped trestle was a fun build. forget dowels/skewers - too little an adhesive contact patch. go directly to the long fireplace matches. just remember as you're cutting the match heads off those heads need to be stored in something METAL and airtight as they ARE a potentially nasty hazard rattling about against each other.
have .jpg files to supply, but i haven't figured out how to insert them here (yet).
-stev
*each support has 2 screw holes: one into the wall and one into the bottom of the "shelf".