Newbie; Solder or not? Help

[Anonymous]

I use an Antex 20 watt iron for soldering track joints with a 2mm flat tip with multi-core solder.

One thing to remember when soldering track joints is to allow for temperature changes. If you live in an area with changeable weather, or as in my case, move the layout from a cool basement to a hot exhibition hall, put plenty of expansion joints in the rails. These are cuts in the rail, with a wire soldered loosly across the break, which allow for expansion and contraction of the metal rail.

I found out the hard way at one summer exhibition, when my track started buckling all over the place by the second day. I put breaks in each rail every 5 feet or so, as wide as a Dremmel cutting disc, and have never had the problem since.

Jon

[Anonymous]

I use an Antex 20 watt iron for soldering track joints with a 2mm flat tip with multi-core solder.

One thing to remember when soldering track joints is to allow for temperature changes. If you live in an area with changeable weather, or as in my case, move the layout from a cool basement to a hot exhibition hall, put plenty of expansion joints in the rails. These are cuts in the rail, with a wire soldered loosly across the break, which allow for expansion and contraction of the metal rail.

I found out the hard way at one summer exhibition, when my track started buckling all over the place by the second day. I put breaks in each rail every 5 feet or so, as wide as a Dremmel cutting disc, and have never had the problem since.

Jon

[Anonymous]

What I have done, in order to avoid soldering wire to N-scale code 55 rail, is to instead solder wires to the rail joiners prior to installing them. I place the wire on the bottom side of the rail joiner, so that once it is in place, the wire can be hidden under the ballast. This is the main reason I did it; to minimize the visual impact. I do this to every single rail joiner, so that every piece of track has feeders on each end; electrical blocks still have to be cut with a moto-tool. Admittedly, I am avoiding being a "real man" by not soldering wire to rail... but I *have* done it that way in the past, melted ties and all.

[Anonymous]

What I have done, in order to avoid soldering wire to N-scale code 55 rail, is to instead solder wires to the rail joiners prior to installing them. I place the wire on the bottom side of the rail joiner, so that once it is in place, the wire can be hidden under the ballast. This is the main reason I did it; to minimize the visual impact. I do this to every single rail joiner, so that every piece of track has feeders on each end; electrical blocks still have to be cut with a moto-tool. Admittedly, I am avoiding being a "real man" by not soldering wire to rail... but I *have* done it that way in the past, melted ties and all.