Any idears on windows?

[denny99]

I use projector transparancy film for laser printers. I draw the window frame, then print it on the film. easy, quick and almost costless.

[denny99]

I use projector transparancy film for laser printers. I draw the window frame, then print it on the film. easy, quick and almost costless.

[Anonymous]

I have read where some have used microscope slide covers to glaze windows in model buildings.

I plan to recycle some of the clear plastic used in packaging for windows in my buildings.

Thanks,

Dale B.

[Anonymous]

I have read where some have used microscope slide covers to glaze windows in model buildings.

I plan to recycle some of the clear plastic used in packaging for windows in my buildings.

Thanks,

Dale B.

[Anonymous]

I will one day figure out how to do it, but I face this same dilemma for my N-scale layout. As an architect, I have as a goal to not only scratchbuild but also design every building on the layout; as a procrastinator I have yet to build the first one, of course. I need to figure out how to make arched windows with a unique head trim, shaped like an oxbow. I am wondering now if it might be smart to use an ogee shaped molding, perhaps produced with a router, which I then cut thin slabs off, perpendicular, so that the profile is the shape I'm looking for. This would give me grain in the wrong direction, unless I routed it across the grain. So, maybe it will work, if I can get my hands on a tight-grained wood which will hold together after being cut out to N-scale sizes...

One thing I did for an architectural model once, in terms of modeling fine mullions, was to score my clear glazing using a knife and straightedge, with two very close parallel score marks. Then, I painted in between them; the scores form ridges which hold a thin paint between them. For really fine mullions, you could do a single score, but it would be difficult (not impossible) to fill it in with paint. Of course, scoring the clear material means that it must be thick enough to not be cut all the way through! At the time, I used a heavy acetate clear film which was being sold as a book report cover material, though heavy sheet styrene could be used as well.

[Anonymous]

I will one day figure out how to do it, but I face this same dilemma for my N-scale layout. As an architect, I have as a goal to not only scratchbuild but also design every building on the layout; as a procrastinator I have yet to build the first one, of course. I need to figure out how to make arched windows with a unique head trim, shaped like an oxbow. I am wondering now if it might be smart to use an ogee shaped molding, perhaps produced with a router, which I then cut thin slabs off, perpendicular, so that the profile is the shape I'm looking for. This would give me grain in the wrong direction, unless I routed it across the grain. So, maybe it will work, if I can get my hands on a tight-grained wood which will hold together after being cut out to N-scale sizes...

One thing I did for an architectural model once, in terms of modeling fine mullions, was to score my clear glazing using a knife and straightedge, with two very close parallel score marks. Then, I painted in between them; the scores form ridges which hold a thin paint between them. For really fine mullions, you could do a single score, but it would be difficult (not impossible) to fill it in with paint. Of course, scoring the clear material means that it must be thick enough to not be cut all the way through! At the time, I used a heavy acetate clear film which was being sold as a book report cover material, though heavy sheet styrene could be used as well.

[Anonymous]

Definition of an 'architect'.....someone who doesn't believe in the concept of 4X8.

The best way to make windows I've found is to make a brass jig in the dimensions you want. Yes it takes time, but once its right it remains right. Over time I've built up a collection of several which I can mix and match to need.

As to mullions. Have you tried scribing them in and then tracing over the line with a very fine tip artist color pen, followed with a wipe with a soft lint free cloth?

Randy

[Anonymous]

Definition of an 'architect'.....someone who doesn't believe in the concept of 4X8.

The best way to make windows I've found is to make a brass jig in the dimensions you want. Yes it takes time, but once its right it remains right. Over time I've built up a collection of several which I can mix and match to need.

As to mullions. Have you tried scribing them in and then tracing over the line with a very fine tip artist color pen, followed with a wipe with a soft lint free cloth?

Randy

[Anonymous]

I have built double hung, outside frame windows in a brass jig and it takes quite a while.

For inside frame windows i usually build them in the wall openning with the wall on a mirror. Mirrors are useful for this as you can see the back of what you are doing as well as the front which gives you more informaion on how well you are doing.

i would be a lot easier to buy grandt line ones. I wish i could find someone in the UK that would sell them so i don't need to pay Walthers 20% shipping and then 17.5% V.A.T. when it gets to the UK.

neil

[Anonymous]

I have built double hung, outside frame windows in a brass jig and it takes quite a while.

For inside frame windows i usually build them in the wall openning with the wall on a mirror. Mirrors are useful for this as you can see the back of what you are doing as well as the front which gives you more informaion on how well you are doing.

i would be a lot easier to buy grandt line ones. I wish i could find someone in the UK that would sell them so i don't need to pay Walthers 20% shipping and then 17.5% V.A.T. when it gets to the UK.

neil