QUOTE: Originally posted by jkeaton Why use a permanent magnet for uncoupling, with all the hazards of unintended uncoupling, when electromagnetic uncoupling - turning them only only when needed - is so much neater? For a simple to make, much cheaper than Kadee, and less obtrusive electromagnetic uncoupler, look here: http://www.xclent.freeuk.com/p87/magnets.htm Jim Ottawa
scubaterry,
I recently purchased the MicroMark magnets and have them set up on a test track before installing them in my layout. The problem I have with them is that they will open the coupler even with a small load on them going forward. I am using the #5 Kaydee couplers and have their alignment gage. I have played around with putting masking tape between the magnets and rail but that does not help either. Have you had any of those problems? Any suggestions on how to fix it would be appreciated. I want to stay with remote opperations so I would really like to make it work!
If you have steel axles, the uncoupling magnet may attract them enough to create 'uncoupling slack' in unwanted places - as in between cars you would like to remain coupled. (In my case, a large percentage of my freight cars are steel - the whole car, not just the axles.)
The (draconian) solution is to eliminate all fixed magnets. I have been experimenting with mounting under-track magnets on hinges, controllable from the fascia or a control panel (by switch machine, which will probably require some form of counterweighting...) The alternative, using electromagnets, can get expensive rather quickly!
Some of my operations require me to be able to uncouple in inaccessible places, so the skewer method isn't always a practical solution.
Chuck (modeling Central Japan in September, 1964)
I never bother with magnetics for uncoupling for the reasons given above. Also, you can never couple over a permanent magnetic uncoupler (unless it is movable horizontally or vertically), and the visible "between-the-rails" types are unsightly. I would only use them where manual uncoupling is impossible. But that's just me.
Mark
What is the best way to manually uncouple N scale Kadee magnetic couplers? Will the bamboo skewer method work or do you need something smaller? If the skewer method works, how do you manipulate the skewer to get the couplers to uncouple? I've always used the between-the- rails permanent magnets for uncoupling.
Bob
Magnetic is the way to go! 2 yrs ago I switched/started using Kadee's (after a 20 year hiatus in the hobby) I love the magnetic decouplers (I use Kadee's brand, under the track because I use code 83). I have a few of the electric type too... but have yet to find a place to put them, since I am uncoupling in the yard, staging or sidings. Oh, if you do need to uncouple, there is a Rix too that has magnets that works OK. And I agree with others... use Kadee only. Get rid of the plastic el' cheapo others...they don't work very reliably with the uncouplers!
Brian
Ken,
Do you remember where you read the post on using the cylindrical magnets, or has anyone else tried them? Sounds like a good and cheap solution, if they work, for an 11 track yard where none of the 0-5-0 methods have been very satisfactory. I use code 70 in the yard and would have to recess the Kadee magnets. I contacted them and they said magnets for code 83 and 70 were presently on the back burner. I guess operating with their uncouplers isn't as big a priority for them as making freight cars.
A friend of mine, Bob Warren, had cut Kadee uncouplers into thirds and made them look like part of a walkway across his code 100 yard, and they functioned very effectively. Kadee also agreed they "could' make their uncoupling ramps shorter and they would work.
Chuck
http://members.cox.net/mylvrr
Chuck,
www.wondermagnets.com.
Personally, I like them. There are previous posts about these. Hopefully the search engine will let you find them.
Karl
The mind is like a parachute. It works better when it's open. www.stremy.net