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Industrial fencing

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  • Member since
    June 2011
  • 49 posts
Industrial fencing
Posted by HudsonRR on Monday, December 20, 2021 7:02 PM

I would like some tips about building ho scale industrial fencing.  I vaguely remember a past article concerning fencin, but I can't seem to find it.

The fence wil surroun an electric power substatio.

  • Member since
    December 2015
  • From: Shenandoah Valley
  • 9,094 posts
Posted by BigDaddy on Monday, December 20, 2021 7:06 PM

If you mean chain link, then say so.  But you may be thinking of something else Oops - Sign

Henry

COB Potomac & Northern

Shenandoah Valley

  • Member since
    June 2011
  • 49 posts
Posted by HudsonRR on Monday, December 20, 2021 7:43 PM

Chain link would be good 

  • Member since
    July 2006
  • From: west coast
  • 7,667 posts
Posted by rrebell on Monday, December 20, 2021 7:51 PM

Best I have seen is micron art.

  • Member since
    February 2018
  • From: Flyover Country
  • 5,557 posts
Posted by York1 on Monday, December 20, 2021 7:52 PM

Hudson,

I found this video of what seems like a cheap and easy way to make realistic chain link fence:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_vywJ4YPsYA

Note:  I haven't done this myself, so I'm going strictly by watching the video.

York1 John       

  • Member since
    October 2007
  • From: Fullerton, California
  • 1,364 posts
Posted by hornblower on Tuesday, December 21, 2021 1:39 PM

I have achieved excellent results using a hybrid fence based on the Walthers chain link fence kit.  I have several scenes on my layout that required several 1:1 feet of fencing so I needed a way to make long fence sections quickly and easily.  The trick was using 3' lengths of .020" music wire for the horizontal tubes between the fence uprights.  The first thing to do after opening the Walthers fence kit is to carefully drill .020" holes through the side of the top and bottom sleeves (short thicker sections) on each plastic fence upright WHILE THEY ARE STILL ON THE SPRUE!  Keeping the uprights on the sprue helps you hold them still much more securely during the drilling process.  I also found it was much cheaper to cut a few short lengths of .020" music wire with each cut at a sharp angle to make cheap and much more forgiving drill bits.  Do use a pin vise though!

Once all of the holes are drilled, remove the uprights from the sprues and perform any necessary clean-up (there is some flash). Next, choose an upright spacing distance and mark the upright locations on two lengths of music wire.  Slide each upright onto the two lengths of music wire, then move it to a marked position. Repeat this until you have the desired length of fencing.  Lay the fence frame on a flat surface and make sure the uprights are perpendicular to the music wire.  Place a small drop of CA at each junction.

The hardest part of the job is accurately cutting the toule!  Use a dark colored cutting mat or lightly spray the toule black and use a light colored mat.  I have to use a magnifying visor to see the individual diamonds of the toule material.  However, this makes it far easier to make cuts along a single row of diamonds.  Toule is usually too stretchy to try to make a straight cut using a straight edge and hobby knife.  I go along the material and cut each individual strand along one row of diamonds.  It takes longer but your fence will look so much better.

With the toule cut, I find that I like to use pressure sensitive glue (PSA) to attach the toule to the frame.  Apply a thin coat of PSA to one side of the fence frame, and once dry to tacky, press the toule into the PSA.  Since the PSA is already partially dried and no longer flows, it cannot fill in the toule diamonds the way wet glues can.  If you find spots that won't stick, add a very small drop of CA.  

Paint the fence using either flat gray primer for an older fence or an aluminum color for a new fence.  Weather as desired.

Although I used thread because I hadn't yet discovered EZ Line, EZ Line would be a far better choice to use for the barbed wire runs along the top of the fence.  

The following pictures show different fence runs on my layout.

  

Hornblower

  • Member since
    February 2018
  • From: Flyover Country
  • 5,557 posts
Posted by York1 on Tuesday, December 21, 2021 4:51 PM

That is excellent-looking fence you made, Hornblower!  I'm impressed.

York1 John       

  • Member since
    March 2011
  • 1,950 posts
Posted by NVSRR on Tuesday, December 21, 2021 5:09 PM

Wasnt there an article in MR recently about making fence?

And of course cue video of chain link made by Luke Towan.

 

Shane

A pessimist sees a dark tunnel

An optimist sees the light at the end of the tunnel

A realist sees a frieght train

An engineer sees three idiots standing on the tracks stairing blankly in space

  • Member since
    February 2008
  • 2,360 posts
Posted by kasskaboose on Friday, December 24, 2021 3:34 PM

I've made a ton of chain-link fences.  Here's the guide I used:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0_guMOYoCpw

Here's what I did:

Got picture frame hanging wire and cut a about a 3-6' section.  Attach on end with a clamp to something and the other end in a drill chuck.  I then use the drill to make the wire straight. 

I next cut the wire into 12-18" sections and made a template using a scrap 2' section of a 1x3. That helped me figure out where to lay the frame, which I secured using a soldeirng iron and resin.

The fence itself I made using tulle (get at a craft store) in gray that I glued on using crazy glue with brush applicator. 

The video I included makes far more sense than what I described.

  • Member since
    March 2011
  • 1,950 posts
Posted by NVSRR on Friday, December 24, 2021 7:22 PM

  Same location of the electric company team track, different view of the rusty chainlink fence.

 

SHane

A pessimist sees a dark tunnel

An optimist sees the light at the end of the tunnel

A realist sees a frieght train

An engineer sees three idiots standing on the tracks stairing blankly in space

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