rrinkerBased on the specs for those LEDs, for a 5V power supply I'd suggest 390 ohm for the red and gree, and 220 ohm for the yellow.
Hi Randy,
RRMel, who recommended the Bivar SMTL4-RGY LEDs, suggested using the following values to get the brightness of all three colours to be similar @ 5 volts:
Red - 1K ohms
Green - 560 ohms
Yellow - 180 ohms
Dave
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
I just built my first n-scale signal target. I think I need to build a couple of jigs to make things easier.
I would post a picture but I can't figure it out right now.
Barry
BARRY COOPERI just built my first n-scale signal target. I think I need to build a couple of jigs to make things easier. I would post a picture but I can't figure it out right now.
Hi Barry, I'd like to compare notes on how you made your targets. Mine are pretty much freehand so there are minor variations from one to the next, but they are so minor that nobody will notice.
There are instructions on the top of the General Discussion page on how to post photos. Basically, you will need a photo hosting site like Imgur (free) or Photobucket (small fee). You transfer your photos to the hosting site, then copy the image address from the 'Direct' or 'Direct Link' line beside the picture. When you are writing your post you will see an icon that looks like a mountain with the sun. Once you have copied the photo address, click on the mountain icon and paste the address into the appropriate line in the pop up window. Then hit 'Okay' and the picture should appear in your post.
Does anyone make N scale riveted gusset plates?
I have volunteered to scratch build an N scale three track signal bridge for a friend. I plan on using brass. I can make gusset plates from brass sheet no problem, but adding the rivet detail could get really tedious really fast.
Any suggestions?
I
hon30critter BARRY COOPER I just built my first n-scale signal target. I think I need to build a couple of jigs to make things easier. I would post a picture but I can't figure it out right now. Hi Barry, I'd like to compare notes on how you made your targets. Mine are pretty much freehand so there are minor variations from one to the next, but they are so minor that nobody will notice. Dave
BARRY COOPER I just built my first n-scale signal target. I think I need to build a couple of jigs to make things easier. I would post a picture but I can't figure it out right now.
hon30critter BARRY COOPER I just built my first n-scale signal target. I think I need to build a couple of jigs to make things easier. I would post a picture but I can't figure it out right now. Hi Barry, I'd like to compare notes on how you made your targets. Mine are pretty much freehand so there are minor variations from one to the next, but they are so minor that nobody will notice. There are instructions on the top of the General Discussion page on how to post photos. Basically, you will need a photo hosting site like Imgur (free) or Photobucket (small fee). You transfer your photos to the hosting site, then copy the image address from the 'Direct' or 'Direct Link' line beside the picture. When you are writing your post you will see an icon that looks like a mountain with the sun. Once you have copied the photo address, click on the mountain icon and paste the address into the appropriate line in the pop up window. Then hit 'Okay' and the picture should appear in your post. Dave
WooHoo. I figured it out. Looking at everything under magnification I think I should finish filing the sunshield after attaching it to the mast.
BARRY COOPERWooHoo. I figured it out. Looking at everything under magnification I think I should finish filing the sunshield after attaching it to the mast.
Hi Barry,
That's how I do it. I solder the brass tube that will be the sun shade into the larger tube and then cut it off a bit longer than needed. The next step is to shape the sun shade with the cutting disc and then file the burrs and excess solder off with a needle file. Once the target is presentable I cut it off flush at the back so the LED can sit right up next to the back of the target.
These are similar to the discs I use for both cutting and shaping the brass tube. They cut very quickly:
https://www.ebay.ca/itm/5-PCS-22mm-Emery-Diamond-cutting-blades-Drill-Bit-1-Mandrel-for-Dremel-Set/143091562548?hash=item2150ebf834:g:I6wAAOSwEfVcPXk-
One other thing I do is use a small pair of vice grips to hold the washer when I'm doing any cutting. That prevents things from getting hot enough to melt the solder, and it keeps my fingers away from the cutting disc.
hon30critter Hi Barry, That's how I do it. I solder the brass tube that will be the sun shade into the larger tube and then cut it off a bit longer than needed. The next step is to shape the sun shade with the cutting disc and then file the burrs and excess solder off with a needle file. Once the target is presentable I cut it off flush at the back so the LED can sit right up next to the back of the target. These are similar to the discs I use for both cutting and shaping the brass tube. They cut very quickly: https://www.ebay.ca/itm/5-PCS-22mm-Emery-Diamond-cutting-blades-Drill-Bit-1-Mandrel-for-Dremel-Set/143091562548?hash=item2150ebf834:g:I6wAAOSwEfVcPXk- One other thing I do is use a small pair of vice grips to hold the washer when I'm doing any cutting. That prevents things from getting hot enough to melt the solder, and it keeps my fingers away from the cutting disc. Dave
I file by hand and cut the tubes with a jeweler's saw. That saves my fingers a lot of grief. I chew them up enough when woodworking. I think I like the slightly slower pace and it gives me better control.
Target mounted on the mast.
I have a single head mast wired up and working.
BARRY COOPERI have a single head mast wired up and working.
That looks good Barry!
hon30critter BARRY COOPER I have a single head mast wired up and working. That looks good Barry! Dave
BARRY COOPER I have a single head mast wired up and working.
I have a double head mast wired and working as well. I don't have pictures yet. I can slide 8 #36 magnet wire through the mast with no problem. I'm running the positive common lead for both heads through the mast. I will post pictures after I get the ladders on and painting done.
Soldering #36 wire on surface mount leds is an exercise in patience. It's like working with very fine hair.
BARRY COOPERSoldering #36 wire on surface mount leds is an exercise in patience. It's like working with very fine hair.
I have had the most trouble with trying to remove the varnish insulation from the magnet wires. My XYtronic pencil iron set at 700 degrees F doesn't seem to do a very good job, so I have resorted to using my Weller gun on high. It does the trick quite nicely.
hon30critter BARRY COOPER Soldering #36 wire on surface mount leds is an exercise in patience. It's like working with very fine hair. Hi Barry, I have had the most trouble with trying to remove the varnish insulation from the magnet wires. My XYtronic pencil iron set at 700 degrees F doesn't seem to do a very good job, so I have resorted to using my Weller gun on high. It does the trick quite nicely. Dave
BARRY COOPER Soldering #36 wire on surface mount leds is an exercise in patience. It's like working with very fine hair.
When I was working in the winding shop at work we would use a candle to burn the varnish off, then fine sandpaper to clean off the soot.
Now I just solder right through the varnish. It works well enough.
BARRY COOPERWhen I was working in the winding shop at work we would use a candle to burn the varnish off, then fine sandpaper to clean off the soot.
I tried doing that with a lighter but the wire itself burned. Maybe I held the heat on too long.
Dave - How come none of your photobucket pictures are showing up ? .... or is it just me ?
Mark.
¡ uʍop ǝpısdn sı ǝɹnʇɐuƃıs ʎɯ 'dlǝɥ
Mark R.Dave - How come none of your photobucket pictures are showing up ? .... or is it just me ?
Hi Mark,
I just got off the Photobucket site. They had a total power outage a few days ago and it is taking them a long time to restore everyone's service. The problem messed with their back up systems too. They state that they have most of their customers back on line but there are still some without service. I guess I'm one of those lucky ones who isn't back on line yet.
They said that everyone's service should be restored within a few days, and they also stated that they are taking steps to make sure this doesn't happen again.
Computers are wonderful - when they work!
hon30critter BARRY COOPER When I was working in the winding shop at work we would use a candle to burn the varnish off, then fine sandpaper to clean off the soot. I tried doing that with a lighter but the wire itself burned. Maybe I held the heat on too long. Dave
BARRY COOPER When I was working in the winding shop at work we would use a candle to burn the varnish off, then fine sandpaper to clean off the soot.
The finer the wire the quicker you need to be. Just using fine sandpaper carefully will work as well. Pinch the wire gently between your finger and the sandpaper and pull the wire out.
I got some suggestions from Ed (gmpullman) about how to build the three track signal bridge. He was also kind enough to offer to look up some pictures of bridges as well. I have found a few dozen pictures but many of them are likely too modern for my friend's needs. Ideally, I would like to get as close as possible to something CN or CP would have used in the steam era.
Ed suggested using an industrial conveyor as a base for the bridge itself. Walthers offers an etched brass kit in HO but not in N. That would have been perfect. He also suggested using Micro Engineering girder kits. I have some spare sprues with the smaller size girders (which Ed gave to me incidentally, thanks again Ed), but despite the overall size being within the proper range, I think that the individual details and components are a bit coarse for N.
So, I will keep scratching my head. If anyone has any ideas, please share them.
Thanks,
Okay, apparently my cognitive skills have deteriorated more than I had thought.
My friend is modelling modern diesels, so he needs a modern signal bridge. Where I got the idea that he was modelling the steam era heaven knows.
Anyhow, I have some pictures of modern CN signal bridges so I can get started on the project. Fortunately they are reasonably simple structures.
hon30critterSo, I will keep scratching my head. If anyone has any ideas, please share them.
Hi, Dave
I recalled an outfit that I bought some HO signal bridges from, Model Memories. These were etched brass and very nicely detailed, alas, no N scale.
While searching I came across this outfit from across the pond:
https://www.nbrasslocos.co.uk/ncat.html
These are catenary supports but you might be able to "kitbash" several of the styles they offer. Lots of other neat stuff for N as well.
Here's a closer look at one type of girder:
https://www.nbrasslocos.co.uk/zportalbend.html
Good Luck, Ed
gmpullmanWhile searching I came across this outfit from across the pond:
Those catenary bridges are perfect, and they are inexpensive to boot!!!
I don't know how you do it Ed but you always come up with answers to my questions. I'm having trouble finding the right words to express my gratitude.
Happy New Year!!