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Reno, My two cents: Thick plywood for sub roadbed (3/4" ). Anything less will change size and warp...I speak from experience. Code 70 looks great but can cause operational ptroblems if it is not perfect. I like Micro Engineering's code 83 because to my eye it has the most prototypical railhead shape (most of the others are too big). Their switches are good but limited, so you will probably end up using Walthers/Shinohara for some stuff anyway. I would keep the atlas for the hidden track and use the code 70 for sidings and track that you can reach easily. Everything else code 83. Using different brands of track is not a huge problem if you fit and file (if needed) carefully at the connections between brands. There are cheats that make transition tracks between rail sizes un-necessary. DCC: Buy the best system you can afford. You won't regret it. I like the wireless throttles by EasyDCC, but there are many good systems. Try before you buy. One other comment: Fini***he train room!! I built my last layout in my garage and I regretted not finishing the space before layout construction began. Trying to hang drywall, stuff insulation, paint, wiring, mudding drywall etc..are all much easier when you don't have to work around part of a layout that is fragile. I did this stuff after my layout was nearly complete (took years off my life). There are many ways to proceed in the hobby, hope this helps. Guy
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