I am almost to the point of needing to apply the plaster soaked paper towels to the scenery base, so I need to buy plaster. I have used plaster of paris in the past, but there was a lot of waste because the stuff sets up so fast. Does anyone know of an alternative type of plaster? Preferably one that has a slower set up time or is maybe cheaper than plaster of paris. Or, a way to slow down the set up time. I usually mix a small amount of wood glue into the plaster to give it extra strength. I read about adding the glue somewhere, but can't remeber where. Probably in Model Railroader magazine. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
I used White Art Plaster when I worked on my scenery base. I mixed the plaster until it was about the consistency of tomato soup. I mixed up small batches to control the waste, and had all of my towels staged and did a dry run so I knew where I wanted to place the towels after they were dipped in the plaster. Having other areas protected from unwanted plaster allowed me to work quickly and not worry about excess plaster flying about the layout.
I think someone here on the forum mentioned using a small amount of vinegar to slow down the setting of the plaster, but I'm not 100% positive it was vinegar.
Don Z.
Research; it's not just for geeks.
JWARNELL Does anyone know of an alternative type of plaster?
Structolite or Gypsolite. You will never go back to that old fashioned stuff.
Here is a discussion about it: http://cs.trains.com/trccs/forums/p/109271/1260872.aspx#1260872
Karl
The mind is like a parachute. It works better when it's open. www.stremy.net
I know its a little unnecessary, but dude you can just buy the WS plaster cloth. Yeah, you're paying extra, but you're also saving a step, and you won't have to deal with mixing the plaster, the risk of it dripping in the one little place you managed not to cover up with a drop cloth, having it clog your drain when you're finished, etc etc.
You can also use the pink or blue foam that lots of people use. Theres this one guy who did a whole like, 7-part series of videos on Youtube of him making his n-scale layout scenery from foam.
but if you're going with the plaster gig, I'd recommend the WS plaster cloth, just because of its conveniency.
Depending on the size of the layout and the amount of plastering you expect to do, there are two ways to control cost. One, already mentioned, is to mix small batches. The other is to get your plaster at a big-box home improvement center or builder's supply house - seven times the quantity at twice the craft store or LHS price. I'm sure that my double garage filler will need at least a full 70# sack of plaster once I start erecting landforms.
Once the big sack is opened, store the unused portion in a tightly-closed container - an empty 5-gallon paint bucket is a good option.
If you do mix too much and it starts to set up, dump the unused portion into a container of some kind rather than down the drain. Your local sewer authority (or your home septic system if you have one) will appreciate your consideration.
Chuck (Modeling Central Japan in September, 1964 - hardshell and zip texturing planned)
JWARNELL I am almost to the point of needing to apply the plaster soaked paper towels to the scenery base, so I need to buy plaster. I have used plaster of paris in the past, but there was a lot of waste because the stuff sets up so fast. Does anyone know of an alternative type of plaster? Preferably one that has a slower set up time or is maybe cheaper than plaster of paris. Or, a way to slow down the set up time. I usually mix a small amount of wood glue into the plaster to give it extra strength. I read about adding the glue somewhere, but can't remeber where. Probably in Model Railroader magazine. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
I use Ultracal in large bags--buying in bulk saves a LOT of money. I split the contents up into measured quantities stored in ziplock bags for later use.
It doesn't need anything added for strength, either. Dries like concrete.
Hi!
While you are building mountains, I am taking them down. I used plaster soaked towels over nylon screening (not metal wire) and then bulk plaster and rock molds over that. I really like the method, its lightweight, pretty solid, and mine is over 13 years old.
Vinegar will retard setting, but I'm not sure of the amount to use. I would start with a tablespoon per plaster batch. One other thing, I put either powdered color or some latex paint in each batch that went over the base plaster. That way, there was never a "white spot" that appeared because of a chip or not being covered by ground cover.
ENJOY,
Mobilman44
ENJOY !
Living in southeast Texas, formerly modeling the "postwar" Santa Fe and Illinois Central
Thanks to all for the advice. I will try to find some of the structolite are gypsolite at the local Home Despot. Plaster cloth is way easier but my LHS wants nine dollars for a roll of it and I felt that this was way too much. I would rather take a chance with the extra mess and all that goes with the old method of building mountains. Besides, last time I did this it was fun. Again thanks.
I'm not sure where you're located, but if you live near a large city, try looking for an Artist Supply store...that's where I found the White Art plaster. It comes in 50 lb. bags for about $14.00. They also carry different types of Hydrocal based plaster that cure at different PSI levels. I chose the White Art plaster because it cures to a pure white color and it takes paint and washes better than Plaster of Paris.
Look for Durabond Patching Plaster at any home improvement centre - it's made by U.S. Gypsum, or, here in Canada, by Canada Gypsum. I use Durabond 90, with the number referring to the setting time in minutes. There are various setting times available, and you can buy it in 2 or 5lb. boxes or 33lb. bags (it's about twenty bucks a bag here in Canada). It will set in the prescribed time regardless of the consistency to which you mix it, and, when cured, is very hard and strong. It dries white - I paint mine with flat interior latex paint, thinned with at least 50% water, and applied with a 3" brush - it's a quick job with the paint thinned, and it also goes a lot farther. If you mix it in a soft plastic container (I use a plastic kitty litter pan), let the excess harden, then flex the container over some newspaper - you can toss it in the garbage or break it up to use as rip-rap on deep fills.
Wayne
On our club layout we used layers of extruded foam 'the blue stuff' we then bought a 5 gallon pail of premixed joint compound mixing small amounts of it with a small amount of water in large butter tubs or coffee cans'plastic of course'.
After shaping the foam with a electric foamcutter we then applied it using small cheap paint brushs layering on thin coats of the compound.Acrylic paints finished the project
.
I find that the use rather thinned Hydrocal to work well and have a decent open working time if doing the soaked paper towel method. WS plaster cloth is a great product but rather pricey. Rolls of medical plaster cloth is much more affordable. If you are looking for a plaster for any final coats, the plaster Ive found to have the longest working time is a veneering or skimming plaster like Unical or Diamond. This is used for veneering over blueboard. The product has as much as 30min+ working time depending on the mineral content and temperature of the water used.
There are so many various methods to add scenery, plaster cloth is just one. If sceniking over foam or any other applied base, plaster cloth is not alwas nec. The use of groung covering by structolite, or other concoctions of "ground goop" prove to work quite well and large areas can be covered much quicker and at a much lowered cost. There has been much discussion as to these methods. My club will tend to use a variety depending the actual constuction and expected results.
Modeling B&O- Chessie Bob K. www.ssmrc.org