When laying a short... say...18 inch spur to an industry off the mainline, do you let the spur drop to ground level? I think it's a pretty good drop (HO scale) in that short a distance and I'm going to have trouble either with cars rolling back when uncoupled, or uncoupling themselves on the inevitable 'hump' created in getting the track down to level grade. How do you handle this situation?
As far as looks go, I think it looks best when the spur is ground level but as far as operations go it will/may be a problem.
JaRRell
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Jarrell,
Michaels has some cork sheet that's the same thickness as N scale cork roadbed, I used it for my hidden staging. I don't remember the exact dimensions of the sheets, but it was close to 36" X 12". You could get a few siding bases out of a single sheet.
The difference in height wouldn't be as severe as going down to grade and may eliminate your problem while giving you the effect you want.
If you don't have a Michaels near you, I'm sure any crafts store would have something similar.
Thanks for the suggestions fellas. I do have one section of N scale cork roadbed so I'll give that a try.
I appreciate it!
You can also glue down your HO cork and then sand or shave it into a grade.
People with spurs on inclines have used a few different tricks to keep cars from rolling - one person simply sticks a straight pin into the roadbed behind the cars. Another uses a small brush with the bristles pointed up that he trims to look like high weeds - he trims them so the cars can be pushed over the bristles but keeps enough so they can't roll on their own over the bristles. And another person did a little pin thing that pops up from the roadbed and is activated by a lever on the fascia like a manual switch control.
If you're into superdetailing, you can fabricate little working handbrakes on your cars.
I use cardboard, and lay the track directly on the cardboard. Single thickness corrugated cardboard is about 1/8" and double thickness is about 1/4". I can put down larger sheets and mount the buildings at the same "level" as the spur. This is very helpful when the spur runs into the building.
The best part is, it's free.
Nick
Take a Ride on the Reading with the: Reading Company Technical & Historical Society http://www.readingrailroad.org/
On a siding this short, you could be placing cars on the ramp down. The transition needs to start after the turnout, for sure, and even dropping the thickness of the cork in 18", barely half of that siding 6-9" will be on the flat. I don't know your actual use and placement for the industry, just wouldn't want you to have any uncoupling or derailment troubles just for the effct to lower the grade. Other options are as mentioned to use the thin N cork and also transition to lighter rail code 70 as the prototype does.
Modeling B&O- Chessie Bob K. www.ssmrc.org
I found that just using a smaller rail size made a big enough difference for me
however I am using code 100 and code 75 track
if you use code 83 the difference will not be as much
trevor