I recently started my retirement HO scale BNSF (modern era modeler) layout. I am using the classic "L-girder" construction method. I was going to use dimensional Pine, but both Lowes and Home Depot had nothing but junk lumber; twisted and warped.
A contractor friend suggested using dimensional Poplar, which I am doing. It is straight and knott free. A real pleasure to work with. I am using 3/4" birch plywood for the subroadbed. Like someone else commented, all screws are driven from the underside of the layout. In addition to screws, I am using Gorilla glue for some parts: the 2" square legs are actually 1x2s glued together and of course the "Ls" are made from a 1x3 and 1x2 glued and screwed together.
Respectfully,
BNSF Fan
Don Z wrote: I used a combination of 1x4 poplar and 1/2" birch plywood for the top of the benchwork. As an avid hobbyist woodworker, I decided to upgrade the legs a little bit...they're hard maple. A photo of some of my work:Don Z.
I used a combination of 1x4 poplar and 1/2" birch plywood for the top of the benchwork. As an avid hobbyist woodworker, I decided to upgrade the legs a little bit...they're hard maple. A photo of some of my work:
Don Z.
Don,
You got some gorgeous legs there . . . supporting your benchwork Seriously, that extra touch does add to the layout, just as a nicely finished valence (sp?).
Dave,
Thank you very much! I was worried when I first read your statement....until I read it again, and caught the pun. I figured since the legs would be visible by people visiting the train room, I might as well make them look good.....and I'm still tossing ideas around in my head for what I want to do for a fascia and light valence above the layout.
Thanks again,
Research; it's not just for geeks.
Weighmaster wrote: Plywood can be used if you have the tools i.e. table saw. Decent 3/4 hardwood plywood in birch or oak @ L's or HD runs just over $40 here in Twin City area. A 4x8 will yield 13 1x4 (3-1/2 wide) strips, translating to $3 and change per strip. My layout is delayed until retirement which is delayed until sale of home we moved out of in May. I plan to sort of L-girder, with the top member dadoed (grooved) 3/4" in from one edge to accept the vertical member, leaving 2" on the inside for attaching risers. I am considering using 1/2" for the top member, putting the cost at about $2 per top member. The groove needs to be only about 1/8" deep for the vertical member to align absolutely straight, and to prevent screws through the top from splitting out the edge of the vertical. Glue will be used as well. Cross members and cleats will be pine because of the split factor, risers can be either. Gary
From the far, far reaches of the wild, wild west I am: rtpoteet
R. T. POTEET wrote: Weighmaster wrote: Plywood can be used if you have the tools i.e. table saw. Decent 3/4 hardwood plywood in birch or oak @ L's or HD runs just over $40 here in Twin City area. A 4x8 will yield 13 1x4 (3-1/2 wide) strips, translating to $3 and change per strip. My layout is delayed until retirement which is delayed until sale of home we moved out of in May. I plan to sort of L-girder, with the top member dadoed (grooved) 3/4" in from one edge to accept the vertical member, leaving 2" on the inside for attaching risers. I am considering using 1/2" for the top member, putting the cost at about $2 per top member. The groove needs to be only about 1/8" deep for the vertical member to align absolutely straight, and to prevent screws through the top from splitting out the edge of the vertical. Glue will be used as well. Cross members and cleats will be pine because of the split factor, risers can be either. GaryAlthough it can be done, ripping or crosscutting plywood on a table saw requires two men and a boy and, without a number of 'shop-built' accessories, can be dangerous for a one-man operation; if you have to rip or crosscut plywood build yourself a T-Box and set your plywood atop it and use a circular saw. One by four pine is a heck of a lot cheaper than fingers.
Cutting full sheet 4X8 on a table saw requires 2 people or accessory supports.
Cutting full sheet 4X8 with a circular or 'skil' saw requires 2 clamps, a straight 1x4, and 2 saw horses.
But why bother? My handy big box lumber yards have a panel saw and will rip or cut plywood to your specifications bypically for free.
When I purchase 4X8, I typically have it ripped into 2 2X8 or 2 4X4 panels depending upon what my ultimate use is.
Over the past 3 years, I have been able to buy cabinet plywood for $25 a sheet at HD. It is birch 8 or 9 ply so many that when I count, I get a different number:). Not always available, may be 2nds but I've never had problems getting it when I needed it.
My 2 cents
Joe
That's not a layout; that's furniture!! It looks great!!
Marlon
See pictures of the Clinton-Golden Valley RR
Medina1128 wrote: Don Z wrote: I used a combination of 1x4 poplar and 1/2" birch plywood for the top of the benchwork. As an avid hobbyist woodworker, I decided to upgrade the legs a little bit...they're hard maple. A photo of some of my work:Don Z.That's not a layout; that's furniture!! It looks great!!
Marlon,
It's funny you used 'furniture' to describe the benchwork. When I built the section of benchwork in the photo below for our fellow forum member Tom Bryant_MR, his wife mentioned it would make a fine dining table....he wasted no time climbing aboard and cutting the hole for the turntable so his wife couldn't confiscate his new benchwork!
joe-daddy wrote: R. T. POTEET wrote: Weighmaster wrote: Plywood can be used if you have the tools i.e. table saw. Decent 3/4 hardwood plywood in birch or oak @ L's or HD runs just over $40 here in Twin City area. A 4x8 will yield 13 1x4 (3-1/2 wide) strips, translating to $3 and change per strip. My layout is delayed until retirement which is delayed until sale of home we moved out of in May. I plan to sort of L-girder, with the top member dadoed (grooved) 3/4" in from one edge to accept the vertical member, leaving 2" on the inside for attaching risers. I am considering using 1/2" for the top member, putting the cost at about $2 per top member. The groove needs to be only about 1/8" deep for the vertical member to align absolutely straight, and to prevent screws through the top from splitting out the edge of the vertical. Glue will be used as well. Cross members and cleats will be pine because of the split factor, risers can be either. GaryAlthough it can be done, ripping or crosscutting plywood on a table saw requires two men and a boy and, without a number of 'shop-built' accessories, can be dangerous for a one-man operation; if you have to rip or crosscut plywood build yourself a T-Box and set your plywood atop it and use a circular saw. One by four pine is a heck of a lot cheaper than fingers.Cutting full sheet 4X8 on a table saw requires 2 people or accessory supports.Cutting full sheet 4X8 with a circular or 'skil' saw requires 2 clamps, a straight 1x4, and 2 saw horses.But why bother? My handy big box lumber yards have a panel saw and will rip or cut plywood to your specifications bypically for free. When I purchase 4X8, I typically have it ripped into 2 2X8 or 2 4X4 panels depending upon what my ultimate use is.Over the past 3 years, I have been able to buy cabinet plywood for $25 a sheet at HD. It is birch 8 or 9 ply so many that when I count, I get a different number:). Not always available, may be 2nds but I've never had problems getting it when I needed it.My 2 centsJoe
As with pretty much every other aspect of this hobby, I think we've shown, yet again, that there are a bunch of right ways to do it!
Jeff But it's a dry heat!
selector wrote: Mobilman, I think you will find, if I understand your statement, that a mere 1/8" of added wood thickness in your cookie-cutter subroadbed is not going to solve your sound complaints. In fact, adding another 1/2" is perhaps not going to do much good. Sound will be much more efficiently absorbed if you employ the technique of dual density materials stacked atop one another. Sound waves are propagated by refraction along or out of a material. We know that they can be reflected, too, which accounts for echos. Certain materials are more suited, or more efficient at such propogation, dependent upon the frequency. So, a way to solve this efficiency problem is to butt any given material with another density, such as foam or cork, or homasote. The dual density layers do a marvellous job of quelling the sound waves as they migrate along the two materials in my experience.Just my
Mobilman, I think you will find, if I understand your statement, that a mere 1/8" of added wood thickness in your cookie-cutter subroadbed is not going to solve your sound complaints. In fact, adding another 1/2" is perhaps not going to do much good. Sound will be much more efficiently absorbed if you employ the technique of dual density materials stacked atop one another. Sound waves are propagated by refraction along or out of a material. We know that they can be reflected, too, which accounts for echos. Certain materials are more suited, or more efficient at such propogation, dependent upon the frequency. So, a way to solve this efficiency problem is to butt any given material with another density, such as foam or cork, or homasote. The dual density layers do a marvellous job of quelling the sound waves as they migrate along the two materials in my experience.
Just my
I think the many different suggestions for building benchwork in this thread helps illustrate that there isn't necessarily 'one' correct method for building benchwork. It appears there are as many different methods to build as there are needs for different styles of benchwork. I'm glad we were all able to discuss this subject without it turning into a giant arguement....
I'd still like to see photos from those that built their benchwork with metal studs.....after all, I'm sure this isn't the last layout I'll ever be building!