link and pin couplings

[on30francisco]

Those look identical to the Ozarks, I wonder if Hartland isnt using them as a source?

Hartford Products and Hartland Locomotive Works are two different companies. Besides link and pin couplers and other detail parts, Hartford Products makes high-quality, super-detailed kits, and trucks.

[vsmith]

Those look identical to the Ozarks, I wonder if Hartland isnt using them as a source?

[Snoq. Pass RR]

http://www.hartfordpr.com/

 

[on30francisco]

Their are as far as I know only 3 manufacturers offering L&Ps.

Ozark - who offer several varients, for freight cars they offer an under frame mount, end frame mount, and prototypical underframe w/ spring shock. For locos they offer 3 multipocket couplers, a 2 pocket, 5 pocket and 2 slot L&P coupler, I've used all of these save the proto spring version. all work very well.

Trackside Details - offers a brass end beam mount coupler, nice but at $8 a pair too pricey for me.

LGB- offered a L&P conversion for their ore cars, but I dont think they were adaptable to other cars. 

There's a fourth manufacturer, Hartford Products.

http://www.hartfordpr.com/

They offer them in both sprung and unsprung versions. 

 

[ttrigg]

Arthur:
Like Vic said, use the longer links and all should be well.  If you feel your cars look too close then get the parts to make some short rooster poles.  Rooster poles are the poles with links on each end to maintain spacing between logging disconnects.  As I build my logging "fleet" I plan on rooster poles longer than Ozarks as RbFSRWy plans on hauling some rather large logs, so the disconnects will need to be farther apart (both under the logs and between logs.)

[Anonymous]

The LGB link and pin couplings are designed to be used with Talgo arms or body mounted on shorter stock. I like to use them on the smaller Bachmann freight cars. I normally only use them on nineteenth century stock as I beleive they were outlawed in the early 1900's.

 

Their are as far as I know only 3 manufacturers offering L&Ps.

Ozark - who offer several varients, for freight cars they offer an under frame mount, end frame mount, and prototypical underframe w/ spring shock. For locos they offer 3 multipocket couplers, a 2 pocket, 5 pocket and 2 slot L&P coupler, I've used all of these save the proto spring version. all work very well.

Trackside Details - offers a brass end beam mount coupler, nice but at $8 a pair too pricey for me.

LGB- offered a L&P conversion for their ore cars, but I dont think they were adaptable to other cars. 

[FJ and G]

IMO, you really have to get into building your own L&P based on photos of what your're trying to create, since what's available scalewise and stylewise is severely limited.

[vsmith]

Their are as far as I know only 3 manufacturers offering L&Ps.

Ozark - who offer several varients, for freight cars they offer an under frame mount, end frame mount, and prototypical underframe w/ spring shock. For locos they offer 3 multipocket couplers, a 2 pocket, 5 pocket and 2 slot L&P coupler, I've used all of these save the proto spring version. all work very well.

Trackside Details - offers a brass end beam mount coupler, nice but at $8 a pair too pricey for me.

LGB- offered a L&P conversion for their ore cars, but I dont think they were adaptable to other cars. 

[FJ and G]

There are so many L&P coupler designs and styles. GRR mag did several articles on couplers but none in my memory of L&P couplers and the various designs. I'm still in learning stage on this.

[vsmith]

I use Ozark L&Ps and I use R1 curves, the secret is to use a longer link, 3/4" L,  shaped like a dogbone, this gives enought play thru the corners. Its also a good idea to set a standard height for the couplers.

[cabbage]

Put two wagons on the tightest curve. Measure the distance between the centres of the buffer beams and then add 25%. Find the one that is bigger from the Ozark catalogue.

regards

ralph

[bleggblogg]

I wanted to put link and pin couplings on some of my rolling stock, so I went to the Ozark Miniatures web site to see what they had. I found at least four different kinds, and I don't know which kind to use. My railway has some tight curves, so I don't know if some would work better than others.

Arthur