New and need some help

[runawaytrain726]

continuing from original message, i mixed the to (Bachmann & LGB) because i bought a starter set from LGB aqnd a long time ago i got a Bachmann 4-6-0 at a train convention. Besides the point, i had to choose between the two brands, so i went with Bachmann locomotives because i liked the realism in the body and in the Knuckle couplers and couldn't stand the hook couplers the LGB gives you. I went with the LGB track and Electric Components becuase they're real reliable and has been working real effectively since i got them.  I hope my advice was helpful into making your disicion easier on what to buy  Steven

[ttrigg]

Chris:


Every now and then we have a battle royal over which track is best!  One important fact yet to be said is that all brass is not equal.  I use LGB brass "flex" track, (need to use a rail bender to make it "flex")(but can easily be unbent).  The longer lengths give better protection from wheels "picking" a rail joint and running across country.  I have a few sort pieces of Aristo brass and it is still just a "gold and shiny" as it was three years ago.  The LGB brass has taken on a rustic brown color, except when one of the dogs decides to pee on the rails which causes them to turn green.  To clean my rails (I use rail power) I run a drywall sander over the layout about every six weeks or so.  It takes about ten minutes to do the job.  Some times I run a battery powered "New Bright" set pulling a box car with a removable suspended cleaning block instead of  the pole sander.

As far as track recommendations, I would say investigate how each rail weathers and then make your choice.  Then get yourself a rail bender and the longest rails in your preferred type.  Use rail clamps (either Hillmans or Split Jaw, both do well and have their ardent supporters.)  The longer rails allow you to stager the joints which can cut down on derailments.  Rail clamps hold the rails very tightly in alignment and are positive conductors of electricity should you go with rail power.

[Southwest Chief]

Welcome to a very fun hobby.

I spent a long time looking at the various manufacturers of track.  My ultimate choice was Llagas Creek code 250 nickel silver rail with "narrow gauge" ties.  I also use Split Jaw stainless steel joiners.

My key points in choosing track were realism, electrical conductivity, and availability of matching switches (turnouts).

Llagas had everything I was looking for. 

First, it looks amazingly more realistic then LGB/Aristo/USA track.  Second they offer nickel silver rail.  I also have an HO layout and have used nickel silver from the start.  The benefits of the silver color and electrical conductivity in this scale made it easy to chose for my G scale layout.  And another key factor was the availability of multiple turnouts.  I visited several layouts before constructing my own, and the one thing that really bugged me was a hodge podge of mix and match trackage.  To me nothing looks better then turnouts that match your mainline track.  It just looks so much more realistic.

While this trackage is much more expensive then standard G scale track (like LGB/Aristo/USA), the realism and smooth operation is well worth the extra investment.  Plus everything you have will be running on your tracks so to me it's the most important aspect of any layout.

Hope this shows there are other options in G scale than the standard LGB/Aristo/USA track.  And for photos showing what our tracks look like, click on the website link in my signature.

[Anonymous]

  Aluminum is softer than brass and outdoors squirrels tend to like biting aluminum for some users.

 The Squirrels!!!....The Squirrels are killing me man!....   Hmmm....maybe if i put a mesh of chicken wire to ground the squirrels while they are biting the LIVE rail....

Disclaimer: No animals were harmed during these evil thoughts...

  Thanks for the help, i plan on using track power for now, i want to run the Bachmann Spectrum Shays (3-trucks are killers)....so i'm going with that as my scale....I'm just getting into the planning stages now, and i want to start purchasing track soon.  Thanks for the help and i'm still looking forward to more advice.

  I noticed many of you mentioned cleaning them, has anyone built a track cleaning car that runs in the train so it cleans as it goes?  I do this in HO.  I was thinking of using a 'Grill Stone' (BBQ Grill cleaner) mounted under a car that would lightly ride on the rails and polish them as I go.  Any thoughts?

[runawaytrain726]

I'm new to too this stuff and i chose LGB track for the rails and they haven't failed me yet(exept for the part where you have to clean them every type you use them) but they also have a gold/yellow color (considering there brass rails) that hardly has any realism. I buy yhe acssesories from LGB but buy my trains from Bachmann.

 

Steven   

[piercedan]

FYI, the track that came with Bachmann and Lionel is code 332, however these are hollow steel and are not made for the outdoors.

 I personally prefer LGB switches, but all solid brass from LGB, USA, and Aristo is on my layout. 

 Playmobil sets have LGB code 332 solid brass track in them, or plastic.

Hartland was using USA code 332 solid brass. 

 Aristocraft has an annual track sale every Jan-Feb where you can get 1 free box (pay shipping) for every 4  boxes purchased.  USA has an instore sale on USA track about the same time approx. 10% off.

 

There is code 250, and code 197/200 and aluminum track options also.   Aluminum is softer than brass and outdoors squirrels tend to like biting aluminum for some users.

 

Aristocraft stainless is the hardest and most say the easiest to keep clean for track power. 

[dwbeckett]

Brian that was an excelant overview, Chris that is what you will get for most responces to questions on this forum. BTW to the world of LS.

[altterrain]

Welcome to garden railroading Chris. I was where you are now a year and a half ago. Track primarily comes in two metals brass and stainless steel. Most is code 332 while some guys opt for smaller profile of code 250 rail. The major manufacturers of code 332 brass track are AristoCraft, USA trains and LGB (though LGB is having major financial problems and is currently not manufacturing anything). All three can be used together. AristoCraft is the primary producer of stainless steel track (what I use) though also sold by vendors like H&R trains. The brass vs. stainless steel debate is one of the big three controversial topics (scale and battery vs. track power being the other two).

My take on it is brass is old school. It is easier to cut and solder, conducts electricity well  but requires a fair amount of cleaning to run well. Stainless requires litte cleaning but is a bit harder to cut and requires more feeders since it conducts electricity less well and costs about 20% more. From what I have seen, brass is the primary choice of the battery/RC guys and stainless the choice of the track power guys.

Most buy track from online and phone sellers like St. Aubins, TrainWorld and Ridge Road Station for best pricing and availability. Sadly the choice of switches, crossovers and wyes (Aristo just came out with a wye) is lacking in large scale. I use AristoCraft wide radius switches (matches their 10 foot diameter track) which are an economical choice but need some tweaking to work their best.

Bigger is better when it comes to curves within the confines of your space. Most locos and rolling stock will work fine on 8 foot diameter track and many will do fine on tighter curves. I use mostly 10 foot and a few 9 foot diameter curves so I can run longer passenger cars.

Just a couple of notes on scale - Large scale is breaking into two camps for the most part. Those running old narrow guage (3') steam at 1:20.3 and those running standard guage big steam and diesels at 1:29. Though there are many who run both and some of the in between scales and of course the guys who run 7/8's scale and the like will get upset if you don't mention them.

Now for track vs. battery power. If money is no object battery/RC power is the way to go. It adds a great dimension of flexibility but with some limitations. Most start with track power then may add RC control for the track power or switch to battery power as budget allows.

-Brian

ps - click on my signature below to see my railroad (currently undergoing expansion) 

[Anonymous]

As for rails and such aristo-craft and for switches L.G.B. (either hand thrown or electric) with split jaw for the rail clamps. I use this and it is code 250 rail. Works for me but every one has different likings.

[Anonymous]

OK I'm new to garden railroading, but not model railroading.  So i do have some idea what i am doing.

 My first question (of probably many) is what brand of track do you recomend?  I'm looking for realistic looking track, and the brand that offers as many options as possible (switches, cross-overs, wyes, etc.)  Reliabilty and the abitilty to withstand serious weather changes (I Live in Kansas) is a BIG plus.

 Also can you mix and match brands?

 Thanks for the help!