Power Supply

[altterrain]

A club member recently told us about this power supply. $50 for a 24v 16A power supply (he uses an 8 amp version) - http://tinyurl.com/32jp6r" target="_blank" title="http://tinyurl.com/32jp6r">http://tinyurl.com/32jp6r

 -Brian

[Greg Elmassian]

The problem with a battery charger, is that inexpensive ones (just a transformer, rectifier, meter and circuit breakers) do not filter the output to very good dc. This can actually help slow running, but can make noise on sound boards.

The biggest problem is they are unregulated, and in charging a battery, current is more important than voltage, so the output voltage will vary wildly under load when running trains.

If you use one, get one that has a lot more capacity than your load, i.e. if you run one or 2 locos, a 10 amp one would be ok, but not great. Greater loads will give you pretty inconsistant speed control.

I purchased a 11 amp, 27 volt switching supply new for $82, standard price. Fan cooled, short circuit protection, overvoltage protection, and uses less power.

Regards, Greg

[piercedan]

 A battery charger will work for our trains as a car battery needs 14.5 volts to charge.

 

Adding the capacitor will get you 16 to 18 volts under a load and this is similiar to what Aristocraft provided in the Ultima 10 amp power pack.

 

For the newest engines with MTS by LGB, more than 20 volts is needed for proper operation at higher speeds.

 

My SD-45's really like the 24 volt power source I use, but my older non electronic single motor engines only need 2/3 of that.

 

[DMUinCT]

Answer, I power the lights in trackside buildings with  jumpers to the rails with its 18 volts DC on it.

All production locomotives that I know of today, in all gauges, use DC Can Motors. Lionel, 100 years ago, and up to the 1950s, used series wound AC/DC motor so they could run on DC battery or AC transformer (few homes outside the city had electric power).  Today, three rail "O" gauge is still based on 18 volt AC but the power is rectified DC for cheap and simple motor control.

"G" gauge MTH locomotives, using AC power, rectify it to DC and then use the DC to charge the battery, power the control board, and run the can motors.   If you are using DC track power for DCS control, it "passes through" the DC voltage directly to the control PC Boards, battery, and motors.

AC or DC may be used to the DCS/TIU which puts a digital signal on the track riding on top of the AC or DC track power.  All DCS/Protosound II funtions are available with ether power source.  I do run DCS control and have converted several Aristo-Craft locomotives to DCS.

Most Engineers now agree that VVVF AC motor control is superior to SCR DC contol, but VVVF requires added steps and cost (AC to DC and back to AC).

 

[spikejones52002]

Yes M.T.H. engines run on A.C. & D.C..

All A.C. emgines run on D.C. also., But D.C. engines will not run on A.C.

Using A.C. with M.T.H.'s TIU allows you to much more functions.

Yes Electronic Transistor Switching power supplies are much better.

You have to match signal pick up with A.C. also. That is a big problem if you have  reverse loop, or want to reverse an engine for many reasons.

????(a short wire to the track is better than a long run to a power pack).?? DMUinCT not sure of what your point is.

[GearDrivenSteam]

I wouldn't use the automotive charger on anything but it's intended use. Just my .

[DMUinCT]

Spikejones,

A modern, all electronic (switching type) power supply has a BIG advantage over the older transformer/rectifier based type.  It monitors current (Amps) and will crowbar (shut down) in mille-seconds in event of a short circuit (derailment) before any PC Boards in your locomotives are damaged or a fuse could blow.

Also, did you mean MTH engines?  My MTH "G" engines run great on DC (both conventional or DCS control). When running DC you must match the polarity of the track to the locomotive (negitive rail under the engineer's side). All newer locomotives have a polarity switch so no wiring swaps are needed. 

My base Power Supply is the Aristo-Craft Elite, a "switching" type unit that puts out 13 Amps at 21 Volts.  I have trimmed my output to 18 volts only to save the lighting in my passenger cars, cabooses, and track powered buildings (a short wire to the track is better than a long run to a power pack).

[spikejones52002]

I check out Amateur Radio operator (HAM) swap meets.

Computer Swap meets.

I found several step down transformers 120Vs to multi tap 24 to 12V. at 10 amps. Then i found very large Capacity 20000MFD   50V+. capacitors. Bank several of these to get as pure D.C as you require.

I scoped it out and get pure D.C.. I used this to power my USELESS Locolinc.

I also used the transformer directly to apply A.C. to my tracks to run my MTD engines.

Check out the Web page for ARRL (Amateur Radio Relay League)

[two tone]

Just my comments to you in good faith, why spend a dine and get problems when a dollar will save heart ache when some thing goes wrong. Repairs cost plus you loose a lot of running in summer while loco is being fixed. I know how that feels not with power but with a loco that stripped the gears 4 times in 3 months so lost summer running out come was the last time loco came back coureor dropped it and it was a write off. So had to wait for replacement that took 3 months

[Eriediamond]

I'm no electronic whiz type so I may be out of line here and please take this as an opinion as it's intended. I would use an automotive battery for the power supply with the charger to keep it charged. I would also use a fuse or circuit breaker between the battery and the control or controllers rated only slightly above the calculated ampherage the power is intended for. Things can get welded or melted pretty quick other wise. Fuses are cheap compared to motors. Ken

[Drummer Creek]

I am in the midst of a line expansion that will more than double my current layout and now find myself with the possibility of power issues. I was wondering if anyone has successfully used a 10amp 12 volt auto battery charger for a power supply and are happy with it's performance? If I recall from some previous posts several have used other unconventional power sources such as old laptop power supplies. I will most likely bite the bullet and purchase a commercial railway power pack but if others have had success with other sources maybe I can save some cash.

Thanks in advance,

Joe