On link-and-pin couplers

[Rastun]

I'm not so sure about the don't model the time frame. But for me I would rather deal with Kadee couplers than link and pins, but then again I model a freelance line so maybe they where just really forward thinking.

Jack 

[hoofe116]

Thanks to all who took time to reply. I have hemostats which is a great idea. I even found a site that sells L&P couplers for $6.50/pr USD(?pr-I hope). The kind soul indicated they were about 1/4 x 1/2", even. But best of all, I found a prototype set. I am terrible at finding stuff via web-surfing but I just typed in 'link and pin couplers' and Wa-lah! Usually I'd expect to turn up a discussion of the mating habits of the mosquito, or something as outlandish. One of you cleared up a question, apparently either truck or carframe mounting is okay. I believe I can make 'em, but I'll have to try a few different things, first. And yes, most definitely couplers want to be the same height.

My basement flooded during a local monsoon, which hasn't happened in about 30 years. I have a reasonably tight basement, so I've been mucking that out a little at a time. Finished cleaning my upstairs shop just yesterday. As soon as that's out of the way, I want to sit down and start playing with some materials.

I've also wondered why no one talks of L&P also. I suppose that not many model pre-ca1890 stuff.

Thanks again,

Les

[DannyS]

IF available (big if) LGB have a link and pin coupling in their catalog LGB #64777.  I use these on my Log wagons, good looking and working coupling.

[GearDrivenSteam]

Here is how my good On30 buddy Harold does it. Although this is On30, I am sure something similar can be done in large scale.

http://www.pacificcoastairlinerr.com/link%5Fn%5Fpin/

[Anonymous]

Hi Y'all

 I use hemostates those long sissors looking clamps that you can get they give you grip and hold and are thin to reach between small gaps.

[vsmith]

I use Ozarks, both end beam mount and underframe, depending on the car. I like them, as said, never have to worry about uncoupling.

OTOH coupling and uncoupling can be tricky as there isnt much space between cars if you use the Ozark links, you will also be limited to wider radius curves with the standard short links.

I use longer dogbone shaped links that I make out of brass about 1" overall in lenth, with these I can run on tight R1 curves.

Also use a thread or small chain to tie the link to the car otherwise you WILL drop the link never to be found again. It also makes uncoupling easier as you can use a stick or tweeser to reach in and lift the link out by simply getting hold of the thread or chain and pulling the pin.

You will more than likely hed to keep a larger size tweeser handy fot coupling as you can use it to reach in between cars and grap the link and drop it in place.

One other thing to consider is to do your best to maintain a consistant coupler height on all your stock.

Good Luck!

[FJ and G]

I'm disappointed that everytime GRR does an article on couplers, they seem to forget about L&P. These are the most reliable and fun couplers that exist. Fun b/c it's hands on and fun b/c there are so many varieties. I use about 4 varieties. Rather than hunt for pictures, why not browse through this forum where everything is L&P:

https://www.7-8ths.info/~seveigth/78yackety/index.php

[jerryl]

  If you are doing early narrow gauge you will almost have to use them to be prototype.  I use them on my 20.3 outdoor RR.   Not good if you want to uncouple over magnets ,obviously. On the other hand you don't have to worry about them comming uncoupled. I get mine from ozark miniatures.  They are easier to mount than knuckles.   Haven't figured how to send pix. yet. If you want, I'll email some to you...I do know how to do that.  Jerry

[hoofe116]

O Gurus:

I am contemplating link & pin couplers. Any thoughts would be welcomed. A site that has pixes wouldn't hurt either.

Les W.