Logos From Avery Label Paper

[FJ and G]

Hey guys, the paper printing method works (plain paper). I just used a magic marker around the edges; not perfect, but good enough for wa

 

I used Kevin's trick penny melting method for the dome lid. A super glue cap tops the penny; bands are made from real strap iron. It was a bear clamping and gluing them down; the outlet spout is made from a cutup bachman hook coupler; pvc and coffee sticks make up the body 

 

 

I'll save the Avery stuff for my metal creations! 

[FJ and G]

PARDON; different topic 

 

Hi Junnie,

 

I wasn't able to reply to your email sent via trains, but I just wanted to say that that is great about the controller. Wonder if you have a picture to share on the R/C setup? My direct email is [e-mail]

[Anonymous]

How about using this paper to make signs on buildings?  I have seen articles in GR on how to do this, but would this label paper be the place to start for a sign.

Paul 

Paul,

This would definitely be a good use for the label paper.

As you will discover, the paper is very versatile...once I bought some, I found I was constantly using it for various projects.

Junnie 

[Camaro1967]

How about using this paper to make signs on buildings?  I have seen articles in GR on how to do this, but would this label paper be the place to start for a sign.

Paul 

[FJ and G]

no problem; no waste; eventually, I'll use them on some metal cars I'm thinking of doing; in the meanwhile I'll experiment with plain paper and coat with something protective; after all, paper is wood

[Anonymous]

Hi Dave,

Sorry if I may have misled you....as Kevin stated, the Avery labels are intended for making badge type logos like the one I showed in the photo. I guess you could try to match backgrounds, but this would be very difficult.

Avery does make a transparent sheet...I tried it to make replacement lettering for the face plates on some vintage tube amplifies that I restored, but I was not happy with the results.

I don't know how well the Avery labels will stick to unfinished / stained wood. I have only used them on plastic and metal surfaces. I always clean the surface with Isopropyl alcohol before I apply the sticker, and, have never had a problem with them coming off.

If I were going to try them on wood, I would first spray the surface with a matte finish and then apply the stickers over this. The matte Finish would maintain a rustic look, while at the same time, providing a smooth surface for the stickers.

Junnie

[FJ and G]

thanks, Kevin

 

[kstrong]

Dave,

1) It's going to be impossible to match. This technique works best with a "badge" style herald that has no transparency to it. This way, you can cut out around the outside edges, and not have to worry about matching what's underneath.

You can use transparent label paper, but you'll run into the same problem that folks who decals do; translucent inks. Over a light background such as stained wood (assuming it's a light stain) this will be less of a problem because the inks can stand out against it. Over a dark background, you're up the creek.

For wood cars--particularly unpainted wood cars--I would really recommend dry transfers or vinyl lettering. This avoids the problem of having a clear film over the wood that will ultimately be impossible to blend back into the wood. They're a bit more expensive than merely printing them on your desktop printer, but the results, in my opinion, are worth it.

2) That, I don't know. I'd be tempted to not use label paper, but regular paper, gluing it in place with carpenter's glue. A few caveats, though. The carpenter's glue will soak into the paper and possibly warp or wrinkle it. You'll want to keep an eye on it as it dries to mitigate that. (You can also take that opportunity to work it into the cracks and crevasses of the car.) Also, be careful to make sure the glue doesn't dampen the artwork enough to where the inks may run. This depends greatly on the particular printer you're using--some inks are more waterproof/colorfast than others.

Later,

K

[FJ and G]

Hi Junnie, DMU,

 

I just ran about 2 miles (literally) and picked up a folder of 25 smudge and jam free 8165 Avery (less than $11 incl tax)

Since the paper looks white, I suppose I will need to do a pretty good color match of the background on photoshop. 

There are a couple of problems (perhaps?).

1. My models are all wood and stained; the stain is a mottled (mixed, streaked color), not a single color. Might be a bit challenging to match

2. I'm hoping these will stick to oily stains I used like minwax and thompson waterseal

 

I'm wondering if you used these on wood?

 

 

[DMUinCT]

I been buying the 8165 paper at Staples.  Hint, set your printer option for "Photo Glossy Paper" even tho it is a mat paper, gives deeper colors.

[FJ and G]

Junnie, Let me know how it goes; feel free to email me. I'm going out looking for that Avery product you mentioned.

[Anonymous]

Hi FJ,

This is off topic, but, I wanted to tell you that I have ordered the ESC from Horizon Hobby that you described in your posting "a control system that's not for everyone."

I have pre wired my Bachmann 4-6-0 to use with your system. Since I already had the transmitter and receiver, the cost of conversion to battery power will be less than $100 dollars including batteries! All components fit very nicely into the tender!

Thanks again for your post on this subject!

Junnie 

[FJ and G]

thanks, Junnie; vERY NICE; I'll go to walmart or office depot and look for some

[Anonymous]

Hi,

I'm sure that most of You have already discovered this quick and easy method of creating decals from Avery self stick paper, but just in case, here is discription of how to do it.

Using any graphics program, create your logo. Then print it on smudge free Avery ink jet full sheet label paper. The product number of the Avery paper I use is 8165.

When the ink has dried, cut each logo from the sheet using a razor blade. Use a marking pen that is similar in color to the color of your logo's background to cover the white edges of the logo. Then apply.

If you place the logo on a surface like the side of a wooden box car, you can apply the logo so that it looks as if it was painted on. To do this, remove the backing paper and lightly place the sticker in position. then starting in the center of the sticker, working first to one side, then the other, scribe it down one board at a time with a scribing tool. I find that the protruding plactic clip on the cap of a cheap ball point pen to be perfect for this. With a little practice you will quickly get the hang of it. Spray with with any clear finish to protect from the elements.

You can see pictures of my logo on a boxcar by going to the website shown below. I had not yet sprayed the car with clear lacquer when these pictures were taken.

   http://new.photos.yahoo.com/soda14a6v/album/576460762397950228

Junnie