'Closing the loop' on an out-'n'-back loop.

[hoofe116]

O Gurus of G Gauge:

I have decided to change my trackplan. This is a good thing since I've yet to lay any. Instead of P to P, I want an 'out-and-back' loop. Perhaps there's another name for it. I did it with Lionel 027 via an automatic turnout (I think, the only way that it can be done in hi-rail) but if I use one of my remote-controlled Aristo turnouts, I'll have to buy a controller & switch. The Lionel could be wired so the oncoming train 'tripped' the switch so it wouldn't be in the wrong setting and derail the train. I am wondering if there's a special track section that 'closes the loop' w/o using a turnout? If so, where would I find a description for building one? Wait: wouldn't that be a 'wye'? I know that LGB, for one, sells polarity-switching sections, but I also know it can be done with wire, section blocking, and a common electrical switch. I just can't think of how to 'close the loop' w/o using an automatic (remote-controlled) turnout.

Has anyone thought about using solenoids off a washing machine for switch motors and the like? I'm aware of the 'high voltage' problem.

And lastly, do any of the 'How to Wire Your Model RR' books go very deeply into the electronics involved, like building & wiring up simple circuit boards, etc?

Sorry 'bout three questions in one post.

Les Whitaker

[ttrigg]

Les

(1) During my days in N scale I did something like what you are looking for, I think.  I mounted reed switches on top of the ties and a magnet under the engine to control turnout throw.  One reed switch in the "main line" prior to entering the loop, to throw the turnout to the right.  Another in the "approach line" to throw the turnout left to accept the oncoming train.  Since that layout was a "point loop to point loop", I had the same setup at both ends and also controlled track polarity from the reed switches and a DPDT solenoid under the track.

(2) I would be afraid that the solenoids from a washing machine would produce too much shock inertia, unless you securely attached it to a cinderblock (or other heavy sub base.)  You could cut a hole in the side of the cinderblock for the solenoid, but then you would need to seal off the ends of the block chamber to prevent dirt, slugs, snails from getting into your device.  Then you would also need to secure the 110 volt wires in PVC pipe.

(3) Since I'm not so good in building electronics, I've always avoided those books.  They are out there.  I would suggest checking out the library of Kalmbach.

[toenailridgesl]

....or you convert to battery, R/C & forget the whole polarity hassle

[hoofe116]

I believes I'll stay with what I (think) I know, block 'n switches. (Anyhow, 'taint wholesome to say 'caint afford such fancy stuff noways,' on this-here board.)

[hoofe116]

Ttrigg:

I doubt if such an arrangement would stand the weather, even were it fairly well sealed, due to temperature fluctuations.

The washing-machine solenoids would be 'unloaded' i.e. shock value damped out, via a soft spring, probably connected to a bellcrank setup to adjust for throw and temp variations. It was a passing thought, like many I've been contemplating while I await the $$ to get a Bachmann Climax or Shay. (W/O the bells & whistles, literally<g>). Decided to put aside the 'Porter' Project until I get A), basement workshop finished again; B) Wife's studio re-ceilinged, as she's becoming troublesome on the subject; C) a test track laid somehow, somewhere, in the yard. (D thru Z I'll not trouble you with.)<g>

[spikejones52002]

I use low voltage slow motion motors to drive all my turnouts.

I mounted a DPDT switch actuated by the sliding cross arm.

[dwbeckett]

That mite be a " Y " at one end. I plan on that for my outdoor TEST TRACT to be constructed from left over track ( if such a thing would ever happen )  from my indoor RR. The configuration I am planning is one track out to a loop then returning to a Y . The Y tail will be long enought for the complete train to be turned (direction change ) as in backed in to the starting point. This will only require two switch's since the loop act's as the third. I am also going to try spring switch's since the trains only need to cut the switch once. Wiring should be simple since I only need one pair insulators between the switchs (prevent short's)and power supply with a reversing switch. wish me luck on gaining trackage rights in the rose garden. 

[dwbeckett]

I did get trackage rights in the Rose garden and my wife like's the idea of having some track in the yard. We have a lot of visiting children. So we desided on a name for the new RR we are going to call it the OUT'iN"BACK Railway or ONBR thanks for the reason not to store any excess track I mite have from the DNRR. Time to load some fresh battery's in the old digital. the before pictures and YES it is a mess, I'm leveling the patio blocks that I tossed in to replace the old deck, why I had to remove the original DNRR.