I want to install an outdoor railroad...

[Greg Elmassian]

It really depends on your environment.

First, you have not specified what manufacturer of track you are using.

Some people have good luck with rail joiners with grease in them to keep out moisture and corrosion on brass track. Others need rail clamps like hillman or split jaw.

At the ultimate end of reliability, is stainless steel track with stainless steel rail clamps. I use this setup, and DCC.

Regards, Greg

[spikejones52002]

You sound like you might have a great place for a layout.

One major concern, reflective heat from the roof. You might have to build a decking about 16 cm for ventilation/heat dissipation.

Next concern. safety 1 m high railing around edge of roof.

as discussed many times in this forum. Rail clamps i like Split jaw. remove slip over joiners completely.

I used them for many years. very good instalation. Very easy maintenance. Very good electricial connection.

[hoofe116]

Hello, J:

I haven't yet got even a meter of track laid, but if I could afford it, I would go battery power and remote control, because block wiring, reversing voltages at loop-ends (out-and-back track) and switches is a good deal of work that I would rather avoid. The power supplies for this gauge are fairly expensive, though I suppose not much more than other gauges/scales.  Then there's the problem of cleaning track periodically, and dead spots due to unnoticed residue, like sap on the rails.

Les Whitaker

[ttrigg]

Can you reliably run the railroad with electric power through the tracks and what is the way to do it successfully?

It must be really reliable otherwise I prefer to use a battery and radio control - or live steam (I am dreaming of this). If there is a reliable solution I might also think about running my 0n30 trains but I fear that these are not robust enough. And I want to run the trains the whole year.

What is your opinion about a reliable power supply?

Jorgen

Reliability of my Garden railroad depends on my periodic maintenance.  I use track power from a BridgeWorks transformer. My primary method of cleaning track is by using a "dry wall sanding pole".  I have absolutely no idea what it would be called in your part of the world but look at the picture.

I use the pole about once every 2 months, depending on the weather.  Most cleaning time is spent inspecting turnouts for small debris (sand blocking the points and such.)

Battery Power and radio control is also a good way to go.  It has a very large and loud support group, who believe it is the "only way to go!"  Since my trackage is not subject to much bad weather (no snow in San Diego) I have chosen to go with block wiring and track power.  If I did live in an area where there was snow, I would probably have started with battery power, since I know ice on the tracks will not conduct the power.

Live steam with R/C throttle control, Yes that I think would be the ultimate way to go.  Unfortunately live steam is beyond my financial ability at this time.

I use Split Jaw Rail Clamps to both mechanically and electrically connect the rails.  Hillman makes another clamp that has its own ardent supporters.  The standard slip on rail joints are very subject to bad alignment and as they get dirty they have big conductivity problems.  I also solder some of my joints, again better stability and conductivity.  I use the LGB "flex" track (1.5 meter sections) thus reducing the number of joints and power loss across the joints.  I have power leads at a few places along the track, such that the engine is never more than 100 feet (~30 meters) from a power connection.

Since you live in Germany, I am supposing you will be having snow and ices buildup on this roof, so I'm thinking track power may not be the way for you to go.  I would suggest reading the many threads within this site on the different power types used and the advantage and disadvantage of each type.

[Tom The Brat]

Yes. You can do that. You'll just need to clean the track now and then. On top of the garage roof you might not have as much trouble with smashed ants, dog urin and the other additives that some of us have to contend with. LGB sells a cute track cleaning loco. I use a "drywall sander." I don't know what you'd call it there. Aristo Stainless track reduces the cleaning needed since stainless oxide is conductive.

You'll probably want something bigger than a starter set powersupply, though one of those will run a train for you. If you have lgb available there, they make some nice ones. There's always MRC, Bridgewerks, Aristo-Craft and so on.

You'll also want to connect the power to the track in several places, just to jumper around all the joiners. Each joiner introduces a little resistance and they can add up.

Beware of batteries in your trains. Once you try it, you'll want to convert ALL your trains to battery Trust me, I found out

[Anonymous]

... and I made some tests with my 0m tracks: The tracks are good but the joints do not last more than 1 year. Now I want to install a railroad on the flat roof of my garage and I wonder how the many "LGB" people are doing (note I am from Germany close to Nueremberg where the Lehmann company is). Can you reliably run the railroad with electric power through the tracks and what is the way to do it successfully?

It must be really reliable otherwise I prefer to use a battery and radio control - or live steam (I am dreaming of this). If there is a reliable solution I might also think about running my 0n30 trains but I fear that these are not robust enough. And I want to run the trains the whole year. 

What is your opinion about a reliable power supply?

Regards

Jürgen