Trains.com

Aristo Craft Switches (turnouts) Shorts

2838 views
15 replies
1 rating 2 rating 3 rating 4 rating 5 rating
  • Member since
    December 2006
  • From: Michigan City, In.
  • 781 posts
Aristo Craft Switches (turnouts) Shorts
Posted by spikejones52002 on Saturday, March 10, 2007 5:04 AM

I have had major problems with engines or lighted cars shorting out at the frogs of Aristo Craft switches (turnout).

All brands of equipment Aristos's RS-3s, SD-45s, 4-6-4s, RDCs. All MTHs with wipers.

Aristo's Fix was removing feed jumpers. That causes dead spots.

I placed a small piece of tape over the two rails by the frogs. I used 1 inch wide painter tape.

I am so happy to be able to run now. I have not tweaked it to the best. IT WORKS now.

  • Member since
    August 2004
  • From: North of Chicago
  • 1,050 posts
Posted by Tom The Brat on Saturday, March 10, 2007 11:10 AM

This is the older style switch with metal guard rails by the frog?

Yes, the solution is to clip the wires powering these rails. Of course, covering them with tape would workWink [;)]

  • Member since
    July 2003
  • From: US
  • 1,386 posts
Posted by Curmudgeon on Saturday, March 10, 2007 4:54 PM

for a while.

Tape is not a solution.

Cutting the rail back, insulating with epoxy, and moving the jumpers to the other side of the gap is.

 

Shinohara apparently has the same issue, as mentioned on the MR forum, and the "fix" was paint.

Also not long-lasting.

One poster cut the rail, moved the jumper, no more tape or paint.

You need to look for a more permanent solution. The tape is going to fail (and generally when you've got 100 folks milling around during an open house).

Of course, since some folks think I don't have a railroad, when I do build one and start buying locomotives, I'll actually know what I'm talking about, right?

BTW, not one of the outdoor switches that I don't have (about 75) are insulated AT ALL. I guess there is a solution after all, and someday I might have to investigate on-board radio battery.

 

TOC

  • Member since
    August 2004
  • From: North of Chicago
  • 1,050 posts
Posted by Tom The Brat on Saturday, March 10, 2007 5:51 PM

hehe

 TOC, you're mean.Mischief [:-,]

  • Member since
    June 2006
  • From: Oakley Ca
  • 1,407 posts
Posted by dwbeckett on Sunday, March 11, 2007 11:49 AM
I just looked at my new 10ft dia switch Purchased on tuesday it has a plastic frog and guard rail's so will i have an open ( dead spot ) at the frog? stainless BTW. 

The head is gray, hands don't work , back is weak, legs give out, eyes are gone, money go's and my wife still love's Me.

  • Member since
    January 2005
  • From: Slower Lower Delaware
  • 1,266 posts
Posted by Capt Bob Johnson on Monday, March 12, 2007 6:41 PM
DW, I'm not sure about the 10' jobs, but on the #6 SS switches I just had 5 out of 9 fail due to expansion and contraction action over the years filling the gaps between rails down the line with granules of sand and forcing the rails to close the air gap on the switches, thus shorting the frog across the active tracks.   Had to remove switches, repair by placing plastic in air gaps, and reinstall the switches!
  • Member since
    June 2006
  • From: Oakley Ca
  • 1,407 posts
Posted by dwbeckett on Tuesday, March 13, 2007 9:51 AM
Maj Bob thanks for the added info my #6's are not nailed in place so i mite just fix the air gap now instead of latter.  

The head is gray, hands don't work , back is weak, legs give out, eyes are gone, money go's and my wife still love's Me.

  • Member since
    December 2001
  • From: Smoggy L.A.
  • 10,743 posts
Posted by vsmith on Tuesday, March 13, 2007 10:00 AM
This is one reason why I use LGB switchesWink [;)]

   Have fun with your trains

  • Member since
    December 2006
  • From: Michigan City, In.
  • 781 posts
Posted by spikejones52002 on Wednesday, March 14, 2007 5:15 AM

Both styles of my Aristo Turnouts short.

Cutting or removing the jumpers is not a solution.

Short wheel base engines and most Aristo engines do not pick up on all wheels and die at the open rails.

If TOC knows a perfect solution I will be happy to use it.

The tape works great for me. I am not UP or BNSF running 100 trains a day through Rochelle.

  • Member since
    August 2004
  • From: North of Chicago
  • 1,050 posts
Posted by Tom The Brat on Wednesday, March 14, 2007 10:20 AM

DW,

Yes, short wheelbase locos will have trouble with the long plastic frog on the 10ft switch. An extra pickup wheel will do wonders. The Aristo 0-4-0 will run over it just fine, and it's pretty short.

 

  • Member since
    July 2006
  • From: Pisa, IT
  • 1,474 posts
Posted by RR Redneck on Wednesday, March 14, 2007 10:33 AM
 Curmudgeon wrote:

for a while.

Tape is not a solution.

Cutting the rail back, insulating with epoxy, and moving the jumpers to the other side of the gap is.

 

Shinohara apparently has the same issue, as mentioned on the MR forum, and the "fix" was paint.

Also not long-lasting.

One poster cut the rail, moved the jumper, no more tape or paint.

You need to look for a more permanent solution. The tape is going to fail (and generally when you've got 100 folks milling around during an open house).

Of course, since some folks think I don't have a railroad, when I do build one and start buying locomotives, I'll actually know what I'm talking about, right?

BTW, not one of the outdoor switches that I don't have (about 75) are insulated AT ALL. I guess there is a solution after all, and someday I might have to investigate on-board radio battery.

 

TOC

Hey buddy, regarding on board radio battery power..............it freakin rocks! No more track cleaning for me.

Lionel collector, stuck in an N scaler's modelling space.

  • Member since
    August 2004
  • From: North of Chicago
  • 1,050 posts
Posted by Tom The Brat on Wednesday, March 14, 2007 12:01 PM
TOC does know what he talks about, even if people don't believe himMischief [:-,]
  • Member since
    November 2005
  • From: Blackpool, Lancashire, UK
  • 448 posts
Posted by kimbrit on Thursday, March 15, 2007 2:53 AM

This is one reason why I use LGB switchesWink <img src=" border="0" width="15" height="15" />

I'm with you on this one Vic, radius 5, thing of beauty. enough said.

 don't ask me about border/width/height, they just appeared on posting!Clown [:o)]

  • Member since
    December 2006
  • From: Michigan City, In.
  • 781 posts
Posted by spikejones52002 on Wednesday, March 28, 2007 9:44 AM

Well from what I read in the forums.

You and every one else will not have access to those high priced toy train LGB Switches.

Then what will you do?

If I can make what I have work better I will and present it.

If you have unlimited funds and access to high priced item GOOD for You.

I think Aristo Craft switches(turnout) look great but had a problem I corrected.

 

  • Member since
    August 2004
  • From: North of Chicago
  • 1,050 posts
Posted by Tom The Brat on Wednesday, March 28, 2007 9:48 AM

(Use smaller font)

What short locos do you have? Do they get both pickup wheels on the plastic frog at the same time? An extra set of pickup wheels, like on a tender can do wonders on turnouts, dirty track and other things.

  • Member since
    December 2006
  • From: Michigan City, In.
  • 781 posts
Posted by spikejones52002 on Wednesday, March 28, 2007 9:59 AM

Nothing shorts on the plastic frogs!

It is the narrow gap between the rails near the frog where the shorting occures.

This is what the tape corrects. removing power from the rail creates the engines dropping out.

Search the Community

FREE EMAIL NEWSLETTER

Get the Garden Railways newsletter delivered to your inbox twice a month

By signing up you may also receive occasional reader surveys and special offers from Garden Railways magazine. Please view our privacy policy