Block Wiring

[Anonymous]

Hello. I am new to forum and am over 40 yrs behind times.I had a simple Lionel layout in the 50`s and that is about it.I am trying to build a layout with Gargraves track.I have some switch machines but have decided to use manual turnouts because the NJ and Tortoise machines look like you need a degree in electrical engineering to hook up.About the blocks you mentioned,how can you run 2 trains on the same track even if you use the block wiring? Wouldn`t you need a real long track? I only have room for an 8`x8` layout.I have trouble soldering as well.Can`t get solder to stick to middle blcak rail even after scraping off the black.Any tips on the block wiring,soldering,installing turnouts,sidings,ect. would be most appreciated.Best regards to all

[Anonymous]

While my layout is indoors (55ft by 26ft), I do use block wiring for my layout. I am using #14 household wiring to run the power to each block. This is to insure there is no voltage drop over the length of the run of the wire. My power source is 2 MRC Control Master 20 power packs. They are setup as Cab A and Cab B. I have 32 blocks on the entire layout.

I used the Atlas wiring book for my many layouts over the years. Since I am indoors and moisture is not a problem for me. I use Atlas selectors for my control of my blocks.

I do not use the rail clamps or solder all joints of my sectional track. The longest piece of track is 2 ft. All wire feeds to my blocks are soldered to the under side of one rail joiner only. You just make sure it is the same rail throughout the layout. My primary wire feed to both rails is done at "one place" only.

This wiring practice has worked for me in both HO and now in G scale. The present layout has been up and running for 5 years now and no problems.

I am not sure what I do inside would work for you outside, if you are building your layout on the ground. There are outdoor layouts that are built on benchwork and above the ground. This elevated practice is slowly catching on as we modelers get older. It is easier to stand than get down on one's hands and knees.

 

 

[vsmith]

Best way to control a block outdoors is to consider using exterior light switch controllers, I would say that you only need to insulate ONE rail and then use the light switch at the jumper wire from the mainline power to the siding. The main thing is to make sure that you insulate the rail on the same side on each passing siding. Spurs it doesnt matter which rail you insulate unless your using a control panel like indoor guys use, then it should be wired in a similar manner.

Prersonally I'm a firm beleiver is the KISS principal, Keep It Stupidly Simple, so I'll be buying some more light switches.

[Anonymous]

Well put Cacole, i am going a long way down the automated route and i am using block wiring with DCC and i use supplementary switches on appropriate sets of points (switches) to distribute power. Some peolpe save a bit anf modify the points underneath but i do not like this, it ruins the points and can nullify your warranty.

Rgds Ian 

[cacole]

No one has really answered your question about block wiring.  What this means, in simple terms, is that you have a separate "power block", such as a siding, for each section of track that you might want to park a train on and be able to turn the power to that block off so you can run a different train.  To form the block, you install insulated rail joiners in both rails and provide a separate feeder wire to the block, through a toggle switch, so you can park a train and turn the track power off.

For your mainline, you wouldn't need separate blocks unless it is a humongous layout that you may want to run more than one train on simultaneously and have separate control over them.

I hope this helps clarify the situation for you.

 

[Old Choo Choo]

Thanks very much. I ordered the Kalmbach book so that should answer my question on block wiring. Another question is on the Aristocraft brass track. The instructions that came with it says to wire to each individual section.  I thought I had read on this forum and elsewhere where many folks just wire to one section for a relatively short railway line.  I'm putting in about 150 ft of mainline to start with a couple of spurs.  I ended up purchasing an MRC Control Master 20 to power my locomotives.  Can I get away with fewer than each section being wired?  Thanks.

[ttrigg]

Old Choo Choo:
Block wiring has been as mainstay for the smaller indoor scales for years.  There are a number of books available on the subject, just jump over to the "Model Railroader" sections of the forums and you should be able to find a number of postings dealing with this question.  Since I am very comfortable working with block wiring, and not at all comfortable with these "command control" systems (that allow you to apply constant voltage to the track (or battery power) and control multiple trains from one unit.) I elected to go completely with block wiring.  Check also the Kalmbach listings for their books.

[Anonymous]

Block wiring is a very interesting and intricate subject, get the LGB guide on the subject i'll get its exact name later. I have a copy and it didn't tell me anything i didn't already know but it put things in a very clear perspective. About US$9.00

It may be a way to go but it is not in my opinion " The" way to go, i think DCC is a much better solution and radio control is also a solution but not one that appeals to me.

Rgds Ian

[Old Choo Choo]

I apologise if this has been discussed before, but I have not seen a clear explanation of what exactly block wiring entails.  I am installing a simple folded dogbone layout of approximately 150 ft mainline with a couple of sidings and am contemplating the desire to possibly run a couple of trains on this track. I understand block wiring is the way to go.  Could someone explain how this is done in simple idiot proof language?  I would be grateful.  I am using Aristocraft brass track.