Connecting the rails.

[Anonymous]

I have a Hillman ball driver and i cannot go on without it.

Rgds Ian

[spikejones52002]

I began building My over head layout in my front room using Aristo's joiners with the philips screws. I was about to hang myself instead of track. I retapped the holes to 2X56 allan cap screws. That made it easier but I still pulled hair. I attended a garden RR convention. I picked up a box of Split Jaw clamps.

I will never go back to anything else.

A bit of advice. Buy a Ball driver with a handle. Now just spin the ball driver by the shaft between you two fingers. When it stops, that is tight enough. DO NOT hunker down.

If ever you need to remove a section. All you will have to remove a section by loosing four screws and lift. Then it drops right back and spin tight.

LIKE MIKEY Try it you will like it.

Now for maintenance. Walk around with the ball driver between your two fingers. Put the driver into the cap head and just give it a light spin.

Nothing is perfect but Split jaw are the greatest.

[kimbrit]

Hi Tony,

The majority of my track sits in baking sun for most of the summer and like yours it floats in gravel. I use the Aristo bolts to secure the track together and I have had no problems in the 3 years it's been down. I hardly notice any expansion in the track, because it floats it takes it ok. Clamps on switches is a sensible way to go, those bolts are a damn nuisance on switches.

Kim

[Anonymous]

I am an advocate of aristo rail but not their joiners, i have had ongoing trouble with them filling with dirt and becoming high resitance.

Rgds Ian

[cacole]

I've noticed that the AristoCraft screws tend to work loose and fall out, but so far my track has not come apart because of that.  If it ever does, I'll start using rail clamps but will probably need only one per track joint, not on both rails.  I run battery power, so electrical continuity through loose rail joints is not a concern.

[vsmith]

I use the standard joiners, just screw a bunch of 3 or so sections together on a bench then carry them out for placing on the ground. Also INVEST in railclamps at your switches, its the only way to set switches in place, the clamps will allow you to remove a switch for repairs and maintanence (and eventually you will) without disturbing the adjacent track or ballast. Smart starter thing to do. I have also found the LGB conductive grease to be worth using as well, might get a little dirty on the exterior  but it really keeps the junk out of the joints.

[Tom The Brat]

I like rail clamps 'cause they're easier, but the joiner screws are a lot cheaper and work fine.

[Capt Bob Johnson]

Dunno about the should part, but I have gone to using split Jaw clamps throughout.   Just easier than messin with those dang little screws.   I'm kinda likin the looks of those Aristo clamps, and my club is gonna try them on a layout we're building.   I should note that I'm using all  Aristo SS track.   It is a trifle difficult to properly position the hole and get it tapped in a cut section of SS track, so you'd almost have to go with clamps on any cut sections anyhow!

Most of the Aristo joiners I started with in the original section are still doing the job after 5 years.   It's just that they are a pain around switches, or to change out after a few years.

[Dream Lessin]

Ok one other question.  I live in northern Iowa and we can see really hot days in the summer and really cold days in the winter.  So my question is should i use the connectors that come on aristocraft track or should i invest in something a little better.  The track will be free floating in chips and fines for ballast. 

Thanks

Tony