Manual or Remote Powered switches?

[Anonymous]

Hello.I am new to forum and a veritable novice on everything from A to Z.I am trying to build a layout with Gargraves track.have some turnouts and was gung ho on using switch machines until I got a gander of a NJ and Tortoise.I have no clue how to hook up these and don`t know if I want to.I am afaraid of train derailing going over these.If they are not thrown all the way I am sure that would do it.Like you said,much eaiser to manually throw them and be sure it is in position.If I hook up 2 switches together,does that increase the chances of derailing or is there a trick to it?I am going to get a new ZW and a CAB1 Trainmaster for power.Any suggestions from any of you rail wizzards would sure be appreciated.Best regards to all

[Anonymous]

Choo choo, you are right; you did get a good cross section of opinion and some very good advice. It is a rare thing for me but i cannot disagree with any of it.

Why not try looking at other layouts and see how they work.

My points are magical things, both in how they are operated and what they do and on the whole i have little trouble with them; nothing that Toms paint brush or some WD 40 wont fix. However on rare occasions i have had serious troible with ants, quite incredible results. A couple of times i have had to pull the whole set of points out and do maintenance on them and this is a good argument for rail clamps in this situation.

And once more i must say one of the beauties of this hobby is there is now right or wrong way of doing anything and everyone will help when they can. Kevin and i are at the opposite end of the spectrum; he quite rightly likes KISS (keep IT simple stupid) wheres i love complexities and regard it as good fence against altheimers (i bet i spelled it wrong)

Rgds ian

[Old Choo Choo]

I want to thank everyone for their advice.  Lots of info to mull over here. The consensus seems split with electrified turnouts having a slight edge but there is certainly good consideration to be given to a spot of exercise running about the layout as well as simplicity.  You are all most kind.  Thanks everyone.

[Anonymous]

I am with most who use LGB Remote Powered, with toggles at a board I throw. All of this has been taken up and recleaned but remember when it is on the ground or any where that to me if it was either type of throw crap can get in both. So clean all switches before OPS.

[two tone]

Like some of the others I`m grey haired, I use the train engeneer and LGB points with electric motors as we call them. Always go for Radius 3 if you have the room most large locos will go around them You call them turnouts I also use Aristocrft access IE ART 5475 this unit will power 4 sets of points if you are planning a loop you can wire both point motors to work together As we get older we do not want to run around the garden changing points by hand when it can be done with the push of a button     Hope this helps

[Great Western]

Greetings Old Choo Choo,

   I built my railroad last summer.  I use manual switches because a) they were cheaper  b) I haven't sorted out the "control side" of things totally yet  and  c)  and this is important ; it gives me a little exercise moving around the place when changing the switches.  lol 

[ttrigg]

Old Choo Choo;

I'm going to echo a blend of what Ian and Kevin have already said.  I use nothing but LGB remote operation switches (turnouts.)  My GRR is mounted in the dirt, as opposed to being elevated as some folks do.  That is also another option that has its own set of ardent supporters.  Being mounted in the dirt, they are very subject to getting small debris inside the points and not operating very well.  As part of my routine maintenance (prior to every run) I take a 1 inch cheap paintbrush to clean the dust and debris from the points and frogs.  My layout has turnouts as far as 100 feet from my normal point of operation.  I have not yet and probably will not convert from analog (block wiring) to remote control.  I have sever arthritis in the hips and it is hard to get down on the knees and do this job.  But that is the option I selected and prefer.  As part of your normal maintenance you too will be cleaning the debris from the points, hopefully before each run.  So the question you will need to answer for yourself: Will you want to manually throw the switches (turnouts) by walking around or will you prefer to sit in one place and throw them remotely?  Will there be any switches (turnouts) located in places that can be difficult to routinely walk to?  If you choose one method and later change you mind, that is really no big deal, unless you need to tear up half the garden to get the wiring into position.  Everyone of my switches (turnouts) has at least one isolated block which also required the appropriate wires be installed.  The entire subject is up for interpretation of your own preference.  The suggestion I would make at this time would be to go with remote switching (turnouts), running the needed wires, then at a later date if you were to change your mind it would be easy enough to go manual, or attach the required parts to go with some form of digital remote control.

I have one other recommendation to make.  This forum is loaded with lots of very good advise.  spend the time to read some of the older posts.  I know that when I read the old posts I felt a lot more confident in what I was doing.  I started in HO in the mid 1960's made the leap to N in '76 and made the leap to the garden about 4 years ago.  The move to the garden is a completely different ball game, and tons more fun.

[kstrong]

I'm a "keep it simple" kind of guy, so I'll generally preach that manual switches are the easiest to get started with. I find dirt and debris too easily gets in the points, causing them not to close properly. At least with a manual throw, you can make good and sure the points moved to where they're supposed to.

Having said that, there are plenty of folks on the other side of the aisle who say they have no trouble with automatically controlled switches.

My advice--if you're designing a railroad where you sit in one spot and throw switches so the train goes one way or the other, then automatic switches are probably a good thing to try. If you have no troubles, fantastic. If you do, then convert them to manual and know you tried. On the other hand, if you don't see yourself throwing switches that often, or intend to do some kind of walkaround control where you're constantly by the train anyway, then save yourself the trouble and just go with manual switches.

Later,

K

[Anonymous]

Well old Choo choo, this is an older Choo choo here and my opinions are pretty differen to most others. And that ios all you can get here.

Firstly i have seen a few of these train engineers around and whereas i think they are quite good; i also think they are pretty limited and i may be corrected here but i do not think that they wiill operate points (switches) either remotely or automatically. 

How you operate the points is largely dependant on the points themselves, for instance i only use 16000 series LGB and they can be opeated off DCC (digital Command control), by momentary switch or track contacts and i do all of the above for different reasons. Other points are operated differently.but most people that i have seen operate them manually; which to me is a no no for a number of reasons.

So i guess i am sorry but i have just made the question harder not answered too much

Rgds ian

[Old Choo Choo]

Total novice here.  I mean absolute novice.  Had an HO scale train as a kid 45 odd years ago but it just went about in a loop.  So, having been given a G scale Aristocraft Rogers loco for a present, I am about to embark on a small (120 ft or so mainline) railway.  I have been eyeing the Aristocraft train engineer and would like to incorporate three or four switches.  Are manual ones preferred for the novice?  Please help as I have all the track purchased except for the switches and would like to start laying track as soon as the rainy season ends.  Thanks very much for your assistance.