Around the sub-standard

[S&G Rute of the Silver River]

Im probly going to use a one soaker becouse Im spiking (yes the little nails) the track down and they don't come out. I like the old oil idea I have plenty of that, but i'm concerned as to what that would do to 1. the traction of the trains 2. the plants nearby. and what would I do about the track already built?

[John Busby]

Hi ttrigg

Environmentally friendly treatments only have one problem they are environmentally friendly

In short they don't work the rot sets in and the termites or your native equivalent wood muncher will have a field day.

I would suggest for sleepers leaving them in the preservative for at least a week topping up as and if required then leaving them to drain and dry as long as it takes.

Working on the basis I am not lifting the line for as long as is possible and if possible I would tip some on the line every couple of years Noting local by laws or proper laws just to be sure.

regards John

[tangerine-jack]

Stoppen sie mit dieser ganzer deutschen eintragung.   Dieses ist ein englischsprechendes forum bitte!

[Snoq. Pass RR]

Ja,  Ich finde deine Grammer nicht zu gut!!!!!

[S&G Rute of the Silver River]

Meine Grammer Nicht zu gut!!!!!

[ttrigg]

I only used the balsa caus it was the only thing around that isn't a 2x4. Would pine work?

Pine wood will work -but again you will need a good water based preservative and you will need to apply it at least once a year.

I agree that pine would work when properly treated.  I disagree with a water based treatment.  Water based treatments can wash off from rain and garden watering.  If you go to your local lumber/building supply (Home Depot or Lowes or the like) ask for a "paint on" preservative.  It is mineral spirit based and will soak into the wood quite well.  My wife runs a gardening business and uses a great number of the 2 inch diameter 8 foot long pine "tree poles".  I have made a "soaking tube" for her poles, 4 ft long 4 inch PVC with a cap on one end.  I stick the pole into the "bowl", pour in the preservative and let the pole set in it overnight.  The poles treated in this manner have survived over 12 years without rot.  The stuff runs about $12 a quart.  When I build a structure for the GRR, I pour the preservative into a roasting pan and put my structures in there to soak up a good bit of the preservative.  I figure the bottom three inches is enough protection as that is the part in contact with the dirt.  I would suggest putting you ties into a bowl and letting them soak up the preservative for a couple of hours.  Set them out to dry and the use a good mineral spirit based wood stain to add the desires color.  Check the local laws where you live, because out there in California, pouring used motor oil on the ground carries a sever fine.  Engine oil can migrate and kill plants nearby, and during times of heavy rain can "flood" off into an fish pond or other water feature you might have in or around the GRR.  Oil plus fish equals dead fish.

[FJ and G]

used motor oil applied annually; code 100 interesting; i use code 148 for my 7/8n18 scale. My bachmann wheels I use for my 7/8n2 have flanges too deep for the 148; sounds like an interesting project though and curious for more details and info. thanks for posting

[cabbage]

Pine wood will work -but again you will need a good water based preservative and you will need to apply it at least once a year.

regards

ralph

[Snoq. Pass RR]

Patrick, an easy, but time consuming way, is to type your post into word, then copy/paste it into the post.  Or, you could re-read your post to catch some of the errors.

[S&G Rute of the Silver River]

I olny used the balsa caus it was the olny thing around that isn't a 2x4. Would pine work?

 

I talk fairly desent. At times I slip into a good ol' southern boy accent (drives my friends up walls) My big problem is my writin in near incromprehensable to all but football players and docters. Easy solution talk to people.

[cabbage]

Well, I can understand what you are typing, (and I only really started speaking English when I came to England). In the US Cedar is normally used for sleepers (ties) while here in the UK we normally opt for oak (normally sections of cut up old parquet flooring!!!)

Both are "oily" woods and if you are using Balsa for your sleepers you will need quite a heavy duty preservative. Do no use a sealant like paint or varnish on them, as the wood will simply crack and split them -wood needs to breathe. A water based treatment is better than a spirit based one as this will penetrate farther into the pores of the wood.

Don't worry about the quality of your written English.

I work for a Swiss company and all documentation has to be written in German. I have it on good authority that some of my reports are hysterical!!! I normally e-mail them to the Frankfurt Office where they turn "My German" into modern German (my Grandfather was Kriegsmarine circa 1914 and we still use the same slang and language). When I go Berne for meetings -most of them are speaking French. The last customer I had to work with was from Vancouver and (AT LAST!!!) he didn't ask what was the crazy French that I spoke -since he spoke Canadian French as well... (Mother was from Medicine Hat).

Me -I speak English with a high veldt accent -I can still "get along" in Xhosa, Reshana and Endebele.

If I switch on the autovoice you will see how I speak "looks" like:

Zho hya effen wit zha oortovoyz eet rhendars whut a call anglis ant tow zhis.

I married a nice girl from Dundee:

Dinnae Fash yesel wit mar woorrds hen!

Just type and spell how you feel -it is not the correctness of it -but what you put into it that is important!!!

regards

ralph

[S&G Rute of the Silver River]

I have begun to construck some track. The wheels on my Bachman Big hauler clear but just bairly. I havent tested the clearence with LGB wheels, and wheels off the HO scale locos, are just fine. The switches are hard to lay correctly. I am having truble with the balsa ties, can you recomend a better type of wood?

 

( I wrote that as best I could)

[Anonymous]

I am not across any of this didn't understand what you said.

Rgds

[S&G Rute of the Silver River]

So far the Bach. weels are tight but clear. Haven't tried LGB(mostly caus I don got none) and the HO has ample room. Switches are a pain. What wood U use fir ties in handlaying, balsa just shreds.

[Anonymous]

Sorry about your accident i have a few of those too, for the same reason.

I wouldn't bother with the code 100 track though, but thats me, you may think differently; i doubt that LGB would run onit, but that is only a thought i have never tried it!

Ian   

[S&G Rute of the Silver River]

Seeing that Ican't find my last post of this I'll start again. I finaly found a way to use code 100 rail. Seeing that I have a small mountain of old (1980's and back) HO stuff, and HO uses code 100, it all works. And I get the smaller wheels I like so much! and It'll still work on the Bach/LGB  stuff. I'm not seeing a downside (although I'm blind and for that matter numb, I almost cut threwmy thumb w/ a hand saw once) What might a doenside.Thanks.