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Cutting strip wood

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Posted by underworld on Wednesday, February 28, 2007 6:52 PM

Tom,

Purple Heart has been around for a long time, but it is an exotic wood.  The tree grows in Africa and is not that of a cedar tree.  That which you are speaking is from a red aromatic cedar commonly grown back on the east coast.  Purple heart is very toxic to some, so you might be safe and wear a dust mask when working with the wood.  Also, never cut the wood without at least a carbide saw blade.  Plain carbon blades will burn the wood and no amount of sanding will ever get rid of the burn mark.  This wood is very dense like iron wood!  The same goes for paduk, which is also from Africa and is orange in color, but not quite as dense as Purple Heart.

Allen

Thanks for the tip on the blades! I've been busy at work and I haven't had a chance to start on it yet....just as well as I am learning more about this wood all of the time!

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Posted by Steam1800's on Monday, February 26, 2007 6:00 PM

Tom,

Purple Heart has been around for a long time, but it is an exotic wood.  The tree grows in Africa and is not that of a cedar tree.  That which you are speaking is from a red aromatic cedar commonly grown back on the east coast.  Purple heart is very toxic to some, so you might be safe and wear a dust mask when working with the wood.  Also, never cut the wood without at least a carbide saw blade.  Plain carbon blades will burn the wood and no amount of sanding will ever get rid of the burn mark.  This wood is very dense like iron wood!  The same goes for paduk, which is also from Africa and is orange in color, but not quite as dense as Purple Heart.

Allen

Allen
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Posted by FJ and G on Wednesday, February 14, 2007 8:41 AM

Underwood,

A couple of notes:

I used the bandsaw metal blade to cut these window frames out from tangerine crates. Regarding the strip of wood that goes under the windows, after I glued it down with wood glue, I didn't like the thickness so I used the dremel with the wood cutting blade that you showed on page 1 of this post, to thin it down some. I did it freehand without  the holding device you pictured. The dremel would heat up so I worked a little at a time.

 

 as well, the metal 1/2" blade on the bandsaw was used to cut all of the intricate shapes on this plymouth. I really cannot find much use for the thin quarter inch wood cutting blade on the bandsaw, as it is not that stable and tends to move from side to side when cutting.

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Posted by smcgill on Wednesday, February 14, 2007 8:01 AM

 After you cut it up are you going to ask what glue type to use?

If I remember right this wood has an oily feel to it?

I can't remember what people used!

Sorry  really nice wood!

Tell us what you end up using!

 

Mischief

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Posted by underworld on Tuesday, February 13, 2007 9:02 PM

Ian I think he means the measurement of the blade from front to back. Most of the blades I see are 1/8 or 1/4 inch. The 1/2 inch I think would be more stable for a straight cut.

 

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Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, February 13, 2007 5:52 PM

I have never seen a 1/2" wide or thich saw blade, even in a saw mill, we must be talking at cross purposes. Surely this would make a 1/2" cut and that would be disasterous. What exactlyy do you mean?

Rgds Ian

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Posted by FJ and G on Tuesday, February 13, 2007 1:27 PM
I use the metal cutting blade (about 1/2 inch thick or so) to cut wood. It's slower but keeps a straight line better than the thin wood cutting blade that comes with the bandsaw.
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Posted by markperr on Tuesday, February 13, 2007 9:12 AM

If you're going to use a bandsaw to resaw lumber, you want to make sure of a couple of things that will help you be more successful. 

1) You want to use a blade that is a minimum of 1/2" wide from front to back. 

2) Place a fence close to the blade for your wood to rest against.  Freehanding a straight cut is a recipe for failure.

3) Drop the upper blade guard down to within an 1/8" of the top of the wood you will be cutting.  This will minimize the amount of drift you experience from the blade

4) Lastly, be safe when feeding the wood.  Use a sacrificial piece to finish your feed.  A bandsaw, though relatively safe when compared with a table saw, is still a saw.

 

Mark

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Posted by Anonymous on Monday, February 12, 2007 11:18 PM

This may be the way to go, thin blade narrow smooth cut, sound like a good idea to me.

Rgds Ian

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Posted by underworld on Monday, February 12, 2007 8:50 PM

I used to use metal cutting blades on my reciprocating saw for cutting wood. My friends thought that I was strange but the cuts were really smooth and the blades lasted a lot longer! I'll have to see who carries the metal blades around here. The store that has the saw on sale only has wood blades for it.

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Posted by FJ and G on Monday, February 12, 2007 11:45 AM
Advise getting a couple metal blades too. Don't use them for hard metal; I did and the teeth dulled. Stick to copper and brass; I think aluminum is safe too.
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Posted by underworld on Monday, February 12, 2007 8:10 AM
 iandor wrote:

Is it really that colour naturally or has it been stained, ive never seen anything like it.

Rgds Ian

Ian It is purple naturally, and some has really interesting grain pattern

David I just looked at the Shopmaster the other day. A local store has them on clearance for $69....so I think I will be getting one.

ttrigg Interesting that you can manipulate the color of the wood through the soil!

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Posted by ttrigg on Sunday, February 11, 2007 9:19 PM
If you take a cedar tree and plant it in some hard packed soil so that it grows slower than normal in an iron rich soil, the "heart" of the tree will turn purple.  Purple heart cedar was very common when I was a kid, but now days finding a piece that is over 4 inches is getting to be rare.  Black heart walnut is also a nicely grained wood.  As a mater of fact, any of the slow growth woods make excelent furniture qualithy wood.

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Posted by FJ and G on Sunday, February 11, 2007 6:47 PM

I have the Delta shopmaster; 1 speed. The metal cutting blade (52"??) works better than the wood cutting thinner blade, which tends to wander.

I've also had good success slicing up those paint mixing sticks (about 18" long) that are given away at Lowe's and HD. 

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Posted by Anonymous on Sunday, February 11, 2007 6:10 PM

Is it really that colour naturally or has it been stained, ive never seen anything like it.

Rgds Ian

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Posted by underworld on Saturday, February 10, 2007 10:27 PM

I hadn't heard of it till last week

here are a few sample images that I found, thew acyual wood is quite a bit more purple than in the photos.

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Posted by Anonymous on Saturday, February 10, 2007 7:47 PM

I have never heard of that wood, which doesn't mean much; I would seek professional advice, if its free.

Rgds ian

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Posted by underworld on Friday, February 9, 2007 10:39 PM

Saw this accesory on Dremel website

I think this with some sort of jig to hold the rotary tool might do the trick.

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Posted by underworld on Friday, February 9, 2007 10:04 PM

David I had heard that fruit crate wood is good stock, I might try some of that for practice. Do you have a full size band saw or a smaller one? What sort of blade do you use to make the fine cuts?

Ian Yes....I did mean exotic! I haven't seen any erotic wood at the wood supply!!! Tongue [:P] It's called Purple Heart....also known as Violet Wood. It is a hard wood, about twice as hard as Mohogany. It isn't crazy rare....kind of along the lines of Coco Bolo and other tropical woods. I did consider looking for someone to cut it for me....just so I don't screw it up! I would like to have the ability though.

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Posted by Anonymous on Friday, February 9, 2007 7:57 PM

Yes mate well i would ignore all this and consider that it is only 6mm thick, first. Is it a hard wood or is it s softwood, and i take it you meant exotic not erotic?

What about slicimg it with guilotene type thing or if it is all that rare it may well too valuable to just hack away at; consider having a professional do it for you, they are usually pretty cheap, when working in wood.

Rgds ian

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Posted by FJ and G on Friday, February 9, 2007 6:23 AM

I'm currently using my bandsaw to cut window frames, trim and other bits and pieces for the 7/8n2 scale coach and combine I'm building. I'm cutting quarter and eighth inch slices. Also, I found that wood crates used to hold tangerines contain thin wood after you remove all the staples and fill the holes with wood fill (you can also make your own hole filler by using fine sawdust and wood glue and mashing it together to putty consistency. You have to use it fast as it dries quick.
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Posted by underworld on Thursday, February 8, 2007 9:06 PM

Thanks Jack....my fingers and hands are #1 concern! I saw a really thin circular blade at the wood supply place....I'll probably go and pick that up tomorrow.

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Posted by tangerine-jack on Thursday, February 8, 2007 9:02 PM

That's what I would use, or a band saw with a very thin blade.

The only advice I can give is to keep your fingers firmly on the end of your hands where they belong.  Safety first.

The Dixie D Short Line "Lux Lucet In Tenebris Nihil Igitur Mors Est Ad Nos 2001"

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Cutting strip wood
Posted by underworld on Thursday, February 8, 2007 8:31 PM

I've got some exotic wood in a piece that's 1/4" x 3" x 24" and I want to cut approximately 1/4" wide pieces from it. The best thing I can think of is to use a hobby type table saw (circular) Any advice???

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