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kadee coupler problem

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  • Member since
    October 2002
  • From: Brisbane QLD Australia
  • 98 posts
Posted by gabbyhayes on Wednesday, October 25, 2006 11:22 PM

Greg

I did them body mount but had to shim them to get the right height to the gauge.   I think where I went wring was bring the shims too far foward.   As I said though they look alright as they are and won't know for sure until I can run them.   I am looking at at least 8ft (more if i can obtain it) radius - maybe more.

Gabby hayes

  • Member since
    August 2005
  • From: North Coastal San Diego
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Posted by Greg Elmassian on Wednesday, October 25, 2006 10:50 PM

Gabby, you did not state if you used a truck mount or body mount. Since you did not mention shimming the draft gear box, which is necessary on Aristo cars, I'm assuming you went truck mounts.

If you just removed the original coupler and mounted the Kadee to the existing tang, it will be way too long. Cut the end of the tang off flush with the larger part, drill a new hole, and I think you have a good compromise between close coupling and clearances required for model curves.

I went all body mounts, and then mounting the coupler box flush with the end of the car body gives a nice prototypical look. Need about 10' diameter min radius to keep cars from hitting each other.

Regards, Greg 

Visit my site: http://www.elmassian.com - lots of tips on locos, rolling stock and more.

 Click here for Greg's web site

 

  • Member since
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  • From: Nebraska City, NE
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Posted by Marty Cozad on Wednesday, October 25, 2006 9:26 PM
I used to try to set the cars closer, but as time goes on and I see 1:1 trains with lots of space between them. I gave up worry about it as long as they work good.

Is it REAL? or Just 1:29 scale?

Long live Outdoor Model Railroading.

  • Member since
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  • From: Brisbane QLD Australia
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Posted by gabbyhayes on Wednesday, October 25, 2006 9:16 PM

Don't know if i'm doing this right but thanks gang for the answers.   As was suggested they look right then they are.   the test will be when i get them running i guess.

Gabby hayes

  • Member since
    August 2004
  • From: Virginia Beach
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Posted by tangerine-jack on Wednesday, October 25, 2006 8:31 PM

Much of what we do in the world of Garden Railroading depends on your point of view.  If you are a scale nut, then no, 4ft won't do.  If you are not a scale nut, then 4ft is OK if it "looks right", not OK if it doesn't.  As was pointed out, there is a compromise of your minimum radius, it doesn't matter how they look if they don't work!

KaDees, at least in G world, are very forgiving with tolerances.  Shim as required to get them to work, but don't worry so much about the last  Nth of a millimeter of adjustment, it won't matter.

In the end, you, and you alone, are the only one that can determine what is best or right for you. 

The Dixie D Short Line "Lux Lucet In Tenebris Nihil Igitur Mors Est Ad Nos 2001"

  • Member since
    July 2003
  • From: Sierra Vista, Arizona
  • 13,757 posts
Posted by cacole on Wednesday, October 25, 2006 8:17 PM
I usually try to match the Kadee coupler distance to the ones that I'm replacing.  How far they should stick out depends on how tight the curves are on your layout, too.
  • Member since
    October 2002
  • From: Brisbane QLD Australia
  • 98 posts
kadee coupler problem
Posted by gabbyhayes on Wednesday, October 25, 2006 7:42 PM

Have mounted KD's to some aristocraft wagons.   The distance between them when coupled is 4Ft (1:29)   Is that too far apart?   They look ok coupled.    Had to put spacers in as well to get the correct height and i think i have bought the couplers out too far.  What should the correct distance be?

Gabby Hayes

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