weathering techniques

[fsm1000]

For some reason, when I tried to dissolve steel wool in white vinegar, it wouldn't dissolve.

Use pure steel wool as in no soap added etc. Also use very, very fine stuff.
Next, let it sit for a week.
Open the bottle of vinegar every day to let it 'vent' out the hydrogen. It isn't a lot but don't smoke when you do it.
That should help :D

[Ray Dunakin]

For some reason, when I tried to dissolve steel wool in white vinegar, it wouldn't dissolve.

[Anonymous]

I am not into weathering, i like my stuff to look shite and briny but too each his own; that what this hobby is all about.

Rgds Ian

[fsm1000]

Cool, thanks for the tip, I like it :D

[kstrong]

It was quite by accident that I stumbled on the idea of using it for weathering. I was staining some wood, and spilled some on the workbench. It dried, leaving a rusty residue.

"Hmmm..." I said to myself.

I've found that on some painted surfaces, the solution doesn't want to spread evenly. When that happens, I dip the brush quickly in some powdered tempra paint (typically black or brown) before dipping into the solution. This gives the solution enough of a pigment carrier to attach to whatever surface, without being anywhere near enough to discolor the effect.

Later,

K

[fsm1000]

The rust is, well, rust. It's a wash of iron acetate, which is a fancy name for steel wool dissolved in white vinegar. Let the solution steep for a few days, then brush it on. Over the next few hours, it will rust as the iron reacts with the oxygen in the air.
Later,
K

Funny thing is I have used steel wool and vinegar for staining wood for years but never thought to use it for rust duh. LOL that's funny if you think of it.
Anyhow, thanks for the tip.
Gee [shaking my head]. Sometimes the obvious is just too obvious LOL.
Thanks again.

[MTCarpenter]

What beautiful stuff!  Thanks for posting pictures of what you've all done.

[Mike Dorsch CJ&M r.r.]

Thanks for the complement Kevin . I do have a MTH Challenger that I haven't weathered  . Everytime I get near it with the weathering supplies my hands begin to tremble ($1000.00)  . It seems to be getting a natural weathering sitting on my fireplace mantle . Maybe someday . I like your tecnique also , beauitful results .

[FJ and G]

Very nice work, guys. I think I'll try both techniques. With some much going on I haven't found time yet to weather my stuff but last year, when I had my indoor layout, I decided to weather a boxcar with simple latex painted on. I've seen old boxcars like this before, often on sidings used for storage or just rusting away.

The trick is to leave just a hint of the roadname barely visible; in this case, PRR.

[kstrong]

First off, fantastic job, Mike! That looks awesome. (Even though it's a diesel)

My personal favorite techniques are washes and drybrushing.

Here's an example of one of my locos:


I usually use very dilute black acrylic paint and just brush it on. It settles into the cracks and crevasses rather nicely. If you wan, then you can wipe off the excess with a paper towel, leaving the effect you see on the cab.

The rust is, well, rust. It's a wash of iron acetate, which is a fancy name for steel wool dissolved in white vinegar. Let the solution steep for a few days, then brush it on. Over the next few hours, it will rust as the iron reacts with the oxygen in the air.



The technique works on freight/passenger equipment, too.


For more examples, click the banner in my signature, which will take you to my web pages. Click on "Motive Power" or "Rolling Stock."

Later,

K

[Mike Dorsch CJ&M r.r.]

I've never tried the weathering powders you mentioned . I like to use alcohol and chalks . First thing I do is take a 1" wide brush and wet it in alcohol and then wipe it into the chalk colors transfering it to a small vile of alcohol / chalk mixture . After I make a small batch of the color i'll wet the entire side of a car with this mixture . Then I like to use a hairdrier and dry the side of the car . This leaves a thin coating of color on the car . Then dry that same brush with the hairdrier rubbing it on a paper towel and then take that brush and blend the side of the car to give it a dull , uniform coating . Do all 4 sides and the top and bottom that way . Then you can keep adding layers of chalk to get the desired effect you are looking for . I like to keep the hairdrier blowing on low to the side of the car as I add sucessive layers of color for streaks and heaver weathering on different parts of the car . Look at real equiptment to get a idea of how trains weather , that is always a good thing to remember .This is a good site to look at real train pictures. http://www.rr-fallenflags.org/  You can seal the chalk with dullcoat if you want but I havent had it rub off on my rolling stock . If you choose to seal it you will have to put more color on the car for it to show up after the seal coat dries . Personally I would advise you not to seal it . Here is a picture of a locomotive I weathered this way . Heres a photo of the real thing .

[newto gscale]

I'am getting ready to try  weathering a couple of cars and would like any tips on the subject such as what type of  brushes and that type of stuff.I already have the weathering powders. After reading some posts on the subject i bought some bragdon powders in four different colors. I'am waiting on dvds that i ordered from garden railways but they messed my order up so i had to reorder,so i have to wait another 4or 5 weeks.Weathered cars and engines look like the real thing to me. thank you for any information. pete