Wiring Blocks

[red_dog_six]

Good day!

Looking for ideas in wiring.

Going to have two seperate loops, so two power packs. Going to have a small yard accessable by both loops.

In HO there was the small Atlas boxes you could wire in which you could power the blocks by putting the small switch in posn 1 or 2 or off for either power pack.

Is there something close to this in G? Would the HO Atlas boxes work for G? Or should I use a 3 pole switch?

Obviously it would have to be built is some sort of weatherproof box.

Thanks for your help in this new hobby adventure.

Andrew

[Anonymous]

Our techie recommends:

Keep it simple!

Use 3 heavy duty center-off SPDT toggle switches.

One for each loop, the third one for the yard.

Use common rail wiring just like in the smaller scales.

Best regards

ER

[Greg Elmassian]

I'd recommend isolating the blocks completely. That way, you could use the same power supply for all 3 blocks, and have one block reversed. If you use common rail, then you have to reverse everything at the same time.

So, backing up your switcher would make the passenger train on the mainline jump into reverse!

get 3 double pole, double throw, center off toggles. That way you can reverse the blocks independently and/or power them on off independently.

Now if you use independent throttles, they will probably have the reversing switch built in, so  you could just use 3 single pole single throw switches to power/de-power the blocks.

For the minor cost difference and increase in functionality, I'd follow my first suggestion.

Regards, Greg

[Anonymous]

I'd recommend isolating the blocks completely. That way, you could use the same power supply for all 3 blocks, and have one block reversed. If you use common rail, then you have to reverse everything at the same time.

.........................................................

A note from our techie - who has used the common rail method on many layouts (both customers' and our own) since 1976:

Common rail is usually used with at least two independent throttles. Independent means each throttle has its own power supply fed from the 110V (or 220V in Europe) circuit.
Each block can be switched to either A or B cab.

The KISS principle applies as follows, the blocks only have one feeder wire.

In the example that means: 1 wire to the one loop, 1 wire to the second loop, 1 wire to the yard. 1 additional wire to the common rail.
Since the throttles are both tied to the common rail and the feeder references to the common it doesn't matter which polarity/direction each of the blocks is switched to. It only matters when you transfer from one block to the other, then the polarity needs to be correct.

Makes trouble shooting as easy as 1-2-3, reduces the cost, reduces the work (fewer wires to run).

If  Andrew (red_dog_six) would like a schematic for the circuit, please let us know (Free of charge from a Canadian supplier)

Regards

ER

[red_dog_six]

Good day!

Would love a schematic for the circuit.

Thanks

Andrew

[skeenapac]

Hey, Red. With respect to ER, I've got to go with Gregg on using DPDT- Center Off switches. I've successfully used this block method indoors and out. My outdoor panel is located under an inverted rubbermaid storage container with the power supplies and throttles located in a nearby shed.
To wire this up, each section of track you intend to power independently needs to be completely isolated (plastic joiners on both rails at both ends of the block) and a pair of wires(one for each rail) goes to the centre poles on the switch. You connect one throttle or supply to left side of centre and the other to the right side. Now you have a block that can be powered by either selecting left or right toggle or leave it dead in the centre off position. Does this make sense?
I thought I had a picture on my web at http://railway.skeenapacific.ca but I can't seem to find it. It's not pretty and is about to be rebuilt (again) for additional capacity. The method works.

[piercedan]

I used the LGB EPL drive and added the optional DPDT on the end so when the turnout is switched, my power is automatically switched, thus not allowing me to forget which switch to throw on a panel.

I use this method to leave engines idle on sidings, works real good for me.